Posted 22 March 2006 - 07:03 PM
Posted 22 March 2006 - 10:10 PM
Edited by reeferman, 22 March 2006 - 10:12 PM.
Posted 22 March 2006 - 10:26 PM
* Engine stops after cold start.
* Engine stops at idle after deceleration.
* Vehicle surges during cruise.
* Rough idle.
Those are some symtoms of bad egr valve and it affects gas mileage as well. Some other things to consider have you replaced the wires and plugs yet if you haven't do that as well because worn out plugs will give you bad gas mileage as well as giving you back your pickup. If you did replace the plugs already what was the mileage and what plugs did you use.
It got plugs and wires about 8k miles or so...
As far as the 3rd one- can it want to slow down as well? (instead of speeding up)
I noticed as I do a bit of stop and go in traffic (speed up and slow down) with will throw the check engine light on, sometimes it will stay on, other times it won't.
A new map sensor improved everything for a while, but things went back down
hill pretty fast....so I'm figure its something bigger, like the EGR...
Posted 22 March 2006 - 10:28 PM
Posted 23 March 2006 - 02:45 PM
Well if that check engine soon light came on recently or not too long ago you will be able to get the code it left in the ecm. You just jump terminals a and b with a paper clip that u bend or any other object availible. Then turn key to run position where all the lights on the dash light up but don't start it. Then watch the check engine soon light it will flash a code 12 at both the begining and end and in between will be that actual code left buy whatever triggered the light. Also and each code will flash 3 times each.
LONG PULSE - (1.2 seconds) counts off the first digit (or tens position) in code
SHORT PULSE - (0.4 seconds) counts off the second digit (or ones position) in code
If you are able to pull the code you can post what you got and I could tell you the possibilities or if you live near an autozone they will normally jump it for you and check the codes and they will take you in and they can tell you the possibilities as well. Hope this helps...
Edited by reeferman, 23 March 2006 - 02:52 PM.
Posted 23 March 2006 - 11:03 PM
Posted 24 March 2006 - 08:39 PM
O well it stores it in the computer and it will stay in it for so many starts then it clears so if you happen to see it pop on or if it has been on somewhat recently it never hurts to run by and get it checked
Hmmm...Going to give it a try..
I live by a few autozones...
It's hard to catch that light though....
Posted 26 March 2006 - 10:34 PM
Posted 27 March 2006 - 09:05 PM
Posted 30 March 2006 - 12:03 AM
All right, EGR valve on a 3.1L engine is a "digital" or electronically controlled valve. Since there is no vacuum that actually opens and closes the valve as with other, older valves, you've essentially eliminated a vacuum leak as a possibility. Also, if the check engine light has come on, the EGR trouble code is normally a code 32. I would check to see if you have power at the EGR valve, then check to see if there is excessive carbon build up around the valve and clean it with a brake, or carb cleaner and strap it back down. Otherwise, expect to pay about 130.00 for a new EGR valve.
As far as symptoms of a valve acting up, normally you're only going to notice things at idle since the normal problem is a chunk of carbon gets lodged into the valve and allows exhaust gas to enter the combustion chamber at low rpms and dilutes your fuel/air mixture too much, causing hesitation, lack of "pick up" poor fuel economy (due to lack of peppyness of the engine and you getting into it more to get the same power), and just overall crappyness. As far as spark plugs for that engine, your best bet would be AC Delco R44LTSM plugs, gapped to .035.
The wagon gets worked on early next week...I'm pretty sure that the EGR hasn't been cleaned, so I'm going to make sure that that puppy gets cleaned out first.
I have a feeling if that doesn't work, it's going to be time for a new EGR...
Posted 15 April 2006 - 02:44 PM
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