Battery in Charger key fob

[jwbouch]

I have a 2011 Dodge Charger that I bought in September. Since September, I have had to put 3 batteries in my key fob for the push button start to work. Any idea what would cause the battery to go dead so quickly? Should I buy a battery from Chrysler instead of Target? Or will that not make any difference?

I know a few of you on here have Chargers, do you have the same problem?

[Drew Dowdell]

We're having the same problem on our Buick actually. Lock and unlock work, but remote start we need to be right on top of the car for it to work. I had a rental Encore on a recent trip and I could start it from far away.

[SAmadei]

Assuming you bought a battery from a decent brand, you should be fine.

Do you use the Remote Start button a lot? Is it one of those that require holding the button down for a while? If you don't use it often, I imagine the button contacts might be getting some corrosion on them and holding the button down is not giving a good contact to start the vehicle. I would also check out the battery holder contacts to ensure its holding the battery correctly and with good contact. Quite frankly, a 2011 fob shouldn't be already experiencing this stuff... but I suppose it could have lived a hard life.

I have worked with a lot of radio transmitters, and I believe that over time the cheap transmitters lose effectiveness... either something is happening to the transmitter itself or the background noise from more and more electronics is killing the signal/noise ratio and that hurts range. It seems like all my fobs require one to be within 15 feet of the car, whereas they worked from 50 feet when newer. I see a similar degradation with old remotes, wifi, pagers, cellular phones, walkie talkies. Its a real PITA.

Of course, I don't like remoting the car from a distance, usually, so it never is such as issue that I'll run out and get a new fob.

I almost hate transmitters as much as rechargeable batteries for their fickle nature.

[jwbouch]

I rarely use the remote start. The issue is more that with push button start, there is no way to start the car if the battery dies completely. I found this out when I had to use my spare key once - I ended up having to use a different car because I couldn't start mine.

I just don't want to have to replace the battery every month, because every time I take the fob apart to replace it, it weakens the fob and over time it will not stay together in one piece. Or at least, that is my fear. Plus the annoyance of having to replace the battery monthly.

I'm out of warranty or I'd be talking to Chrysler about this.

[Drew Dowdell]

Ooooh, you're talking about a different thing than me. For some reason, I think this is a known issue at Chrysler. Let me see if I can find anything.

[David]

I wish all auto makers would build robust wireless start systems. My daughters 99 Durango that I borrow to go skiing has a viper system I put in it way back when I bought it for her and I paid extra to have the long distance remote start which viper says can start up to a Mile away and it does work awesome. I can be at the top of 7th Heaven ready to make my final run down the 2 mile ski run and by the time I get to the auto it is nice and warmed up.

[David]

I rarely use the remote start. The issue is more that with push button start, there is no way to start the car if the battery dies completely. I found this out when I had to use my spare key once - I ended up having to use a different car because I couldn't start mine.

I just don't want to have to replace the battery every month, because every time I take the fob apart to replace it, it weakens the fob and over time it will not stay together in one piece. Or at least, that is my fear. Plus the annoyance of having to replace the battery monthly.

I'm out of warranty or I'd be talking to Chrysler about this.

There are some documented cases here on the charger forums of people having problems with the electronic

portion of their keys not working, and it turned out to be a loose battery connection on the PC board

of the transponder.

There is an easy fix for this, It involves removing the battery, re-soldering the loose

connection, and re-installing the battery.

I have also read that this could be caused by a faulty fuse and they recommend pulling the fuse and replacing it for the push button start system.

Weird part is that in reviewing the charger forum, many people talk about TSB's for this issue that fix's it and no one seems to post what it is. Bummer

I just found where someone posted the following about their 2011 charger, "10575 intermittent/short range of fobik 08804401 replaced and reprogrammed both fobiks" Seems 2011 had a ton of problems and Dodge was replacing them before changing to a new supplier. You can also order new on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390348788535

Hope this helps,

COOL, just found this posted by Chrysler care on the Charger Forum.

NUMBER: 08-024-11 REV. A

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: July 01, 2011

SUBJECT:

Flash: Intermittent No Start Or Intermittent RKE Function

OVERVIEW:

This bulletin involves flash reprogramming the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) with new

software.

NUMBER: 08-024-11 REV. A

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: July 01, 2011

MODELS:

**2011 (DD) Ram 3500 Cab Chassis**

**2011 (DJ) Ram 2500 Pickup**

**2011 (DP) Ram 4500 / 5500 Cab Chassis**

2011 (DS) Ram 1500 Pickup

**2011 (DX) Reg Cab Chassis (Mexico)**

2011 (LC) Challenger

2011 (RT) Caravan / Town & Country

2011 (W2) Grand Cherokee (CKD)

2011 (WD) Durango

2011 (WK) Grand Cherokee

NOTE: This bulletin applies to **DD, DJ, DP, DS, DX** vehicles built before April 7,

2011 (MDH 0407XX) equipped with Remote Keyless Entry (Sales Code GXM).

NOTE: This bulletin applies to LC, W2, WD, WK vehicles built before April 7, 2011

(MDH 0407XX).

NOTE: This bulletin applies to RT vehicles built before April 12, 2011 (MDH 0412XX).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

The service flash corrects the following conditions:

· Intermittent no start

· Intermittent RKE function

The above conditions may be caused by a software lockup in the module. The lockup

condition may be cleared by removing and reinserting fuse M27.

Flash reprogramming the WIN will correct these conditions.

DIAGNOSIS:

Verify that the Wireless Ignition Node is functioning as designed. If DTC's are present,

record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further.

If a customer’s VIN is listed in VIP or your RRT VIN list, perform the repair. For all other

customers that describe the symptom/condition, perform the Repair Procedure.

NUMBER: 08-010-10

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: May 14, 2010

SUBJECT:

Flash: WIN Module For Intermittent RKE Functions

OVERVIEW:

This bulletin involves flash reprogramming the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) with new

software.

MODELS:

2010 (DS) Ram Truck 1500

2010 (JC) Journey

2010 (LC) Challenger

2010 (LE) International 300 or Charger

2010 (LX) 300 and/or Charger

2010 (WK) Grand Cherokee

2010 (WH) International Grand Cherokee

2010 (XK) Commander

2010 (XH) International Commander

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Customer may experience intermittent FOBIK operating characteristics. Dealers are

required to verify the manufacturer of the Wireless Ignition Node Module (WIN) and if

necessary, Flash the WIN with updated software. __________________

Regina

U.S. Top Care

Chrysler Group LLC

[SAmadei]

I thought most of the push button starts used an unpowered RFID in the fob to keep range short... but I guess not. Since its battery powered, there is a backup method... page 12 of the owner's manual describes how to start the engine with a dead fob battery... but the nose end against the engine start/stop button and push to operate the ignition switch.

Also, speaking of fobs eating batteries, be sure that the buttons are not sticking in the pressed position. One of my refurbed ones is doing this.

[Blake Noble]

My Charger's fob will intermittently eat batteries, too. Just an annoying quirk to the keyless start.

I just hope for FCA's sake this doesn't become a bigger issue somehow ...