Tips For Dealership Visits

[Guest YellowJacket894]

I'd like to ask you guys if you know of a way we can can get a straight deal from a dealership for our next visit. Is there a way we can get what we want from the start of the deal? Is there any kind of research we can do? If you have a tip, post it here.

Thanks guys.

Edited October 18, 2006 by YellowJacket894

[Variance]

Having zero car dealership buying experience, I don't really have any advice but I would like to comment on how irritating it is to hear people's view on a car sour because of bad dealers (irritation directed at the dealers, mind you).

[Guest YellowJacket894]

Tell the salesmen he has X amount of time to make the deal. If he exceeds that, you are going to walk out. Works wonders and keeps the "I have to run it by my boss" B.S. to a minimum. Remember, they have their best interests in mind, not yours.

Also, finance through a credit union if you can. They have much better rates and don't try to sneak extra charges into the bill like a dealer's finance department will do.

Thanks for the tips, WMJ. Next dealer we talk to, we're going to do just that. And we're also going to check back with the credit union we're with on another loan (we've already got our Impala financed through one; that's why our rate was around four-percent on a used, uncertified car).

Having zero car dealership buying experience, I don't really have any advice but I would like to comment on how irritating it is to hear people's view on a car sour because of bad dealers (irritation direct at the dealers, mind you).

Amen. And it's even more irritating to be the person who gets rubbed the wrong way by the dealer.

Edited October 15, 2006 by YellowJacket894

[joe_cool]

First of all, I am a salesman for chevrolet. So our policies may be a little different than nissan, but what I can advise is this. First have the dealer seperate everything in front of you. Selling price, taxes and fees, and trade in value,. Once settled on the price of the car you are purchasing the fees fall where they must. With regard to your trade in value, our dealereship (and every dealership in my area) uses kelly blue book to determine buying and selling used car values. Your impala may be a little weak at the auctions now and so they are bringing back of book. However the dealer should be willing to over allow a little for you to make a deal. ( He isn't gonna let a deal walk out for a few coins) chances are you are a little upside down, which about 75% of people trading in cars are. If 2 or 3 dealers are giving you similar numbers for your car than they are more than likely giving you an honest number. If not, dump the nissan idea and give pontiac a call.

[Satty]

One question, how can you expect to get book for an Impala that you say in another thread has an odd misfire, slipping tranny and a tempermental speedo? '04 Impalas are like most GM cars from that time frame, you'll have to work your ass off to get anything out of it because they depreciate like crazy.

[joe_cool]

That's the other thing I forgot. Have the salesman lay it all out in front of you and say "This is invoice, this is what we have to charge to make a profit on the car, this is my commission, these are the extras you can get for a nominal fee, these are taxes, etc." If he's got nothing to hide he's less likely to B.S. you.

Also, welcome to the board, joe_cool. A Chevrolet salesman and fellow guy named Joe are always good qualities.

204981[/snapback]

Thanks, I've been a long time C&G reader I just finally decided to start posting only bad part about asking for the invoice is that it is going to put the salesman on the defense, do your research and figure out what the car is going for average in your area, if the deal then makes sense pull the trigger. would you buy a car you couldn't afford just based on the fact that the delar offered you $200 back of invoice? Trust me unless they are the only dealer in a 100 mile radius they are probbably competitive, give em' a little break, do you ask the starbucks manager to see the invoice everytime you pony 5 bucks for a latte?

[Cory Wolfe]

I have zero experience with this... I paid cash for my Millenia, no trade, and it was priced far under blue book. So... I can't give any advice, but what has been given sounds good.

[ocnblu]

At the Pontiac dealership yesterday, the old lady salesperson worked up figures on a piece of paper. When I asked for a xerox copy of the piece of paper to bring with me, she refused. Red flag.

I have more research to do, and the internet is a good place to start. If I were you, I'd research the heck out of your Impala's value and a fair selling price for the new car your family is considering. It's important to keep the two figures separate to avoid "rolling over" negative equity into the new loan. It's best to know if you're "upside down" in your current loan, and if you are, that negative equity has to show up somewhere.

[razoredge]

I just gotta wonder why someone owing 10 grand on an Impala would be willing to get rid of it. Even if it does have some problems, it would be cheeper to fix than get into more car loan. Residuals are always poor on Domestics, you cant expect anything. Thats why their best value is in driving them,......and eventually to their death or 5-800 dollar value. Where they can still be good looking, good running reliable transportation..........at least old Buicks and Oldsmobiles could, cant vouch for the Impala.

I had to keep the 97 LSS because they offered me $200.......... Well... keyed paint was the issue and paint job is a few grand so there it was. But I still own a great car that looks excellent from 20 feet, has 110,000 mile which is only half its life and is rock solid reliable...AND RELAXINGLY COMFORTABLE I'll eventually get the scratches out and in primer and pay good money for quality paint job and still have a far better car and value than any Atlama.

In fine print I would like to suggest you curb your vulgarities a bit, I use them too, occasionally for proof of point, but excess is over the top and unbecoming. After all that is part of the "White Trash" scenerio we fight so hard to excape...no ? It just extra typing anyhow

[Halo]

ok, this has probaly already been said but:

JUST KEEP THE FRICKEN IMPALA! YOU HAVE TOO MUCH ON IT TO GET RID OF IT. IF THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT- FIX IT! MY DAD CAN HELP YOU WITH WHAT EVER IN THE HELL IS WRONG WITH IT IF YOU CANT DO IT YOUR SELF. YOU DONT NEED A NEW CAR RIGHT NOW SO DEAL WITH IT!!!!!!!

Ok, thanx for your time. have a nice day. good bye

[ocnblu]

[trinacriabob]

Tips for dealership visits?

Go at night...when they are closed.

Want to test drive a car?

Find a rental fleet that has the vehicle and go that route....and it makes for a more comprehensive test drive than what you can do at the dealer.

Bottom line:

Don't hit the showroom until you are ready to fill out the credit app, know how much the MSRP is and what you will pay.

[ocnblu]

You know, it doesn't take 14 years to find out an MSRP. Hullo? NADA.com.

[trinacriabob]

You know, it doesn't take 14 years to find out an MSRP.  Hullo?

205165[/snapback]

Thanks. I know when I want to purchase. There are better investments out there besides cars.

[Intrepidation]

Why not just fix the car? You say you like it overall, and from tehother thread about the Impala it sounds like an electrical problem. Why not just fix it? It's much cheaper than an a whole new car. I agree it should be covered by the warrenty. Oh well.

[ocnblu]

There is something to be said for finding a car you love and holding onto it for decades. Hemmings Muscle Cars magazine just did a story on one-owner muscle and special-interest cars.

I am one that's always looking for the next new toy. Not the smartest, I guess, but I can't help it. I earn my money.

[loki]

One question, how can you expect to get book for an Impala that you say in another thread has an odd misfire, slipping tranny and a tempermental speedo?  '04 Impalas are like most GM cars from that time frame, you'll have to work your ass off to get anything out of it because they depreciate like crazy.

204980[/snapback]

a friend got at least $4k out of a convertible cavilier ~96? that supposedly was not mechanically well... dying, not starting(prolly key related) and other things. she did by a new corrola... so .... it's funny she got that much out of it

[Camino LS6]

Do all your homework first.

Walk in Knowing what all the numbers are.

Drop the printout on the desk and say this is what I want and how much I'm willing to pay. Can you help me?

This method cuts through all of the BS and saves a huge amount of time.

I am fortunate enough to have developed an understanding with a few dealers so when I go in to order something they just say" same deal as last time?" I respond with my answer and we're done.

[CARBIZ]

I'm with Camino on this one: price whores get treated just like that - whores. An experienced salesperson can still run circles around any average/above average customer. You are far better off to enter a relationship with a dealership that has treated you well. Seriously, is saving a couple hundred dollars worth the hassle of going to 4 or 5 dealerships?

If the salesperson is running to the manager, then probably they are new.

I never go to the manager. If the offer is stupid, I say so. Sure, I could play games and go into the office and sit down, but my time is valuable, too. If someone is being very unrealistic about the deal/trade in, or has a chip on their shoulder, I COULD spend a lot of time with them, only to have them go up the street anyway, or I could just give them an equally BS number back and throw them out.

Oh, and if I was shown $6,500 for my trade and then through negotiating that number became $8,000, I would walk out. You may not like their initial number, but if they suddenly bump it by a couple grand, they were just playing games. An experienced salesperson MUST leave room in the numbers they present to allow for the customer who thinks they are important by haggling, but I would never insult someone with a number I could alter by thousands more.

I hate to sound negative, but most times nice guys finish last. Being straight, direct and honest is often a sure ticket to lose the deal. Nobody wants to hear that their sled is worth nothing, that the advertised car is sold out (nobody wanted them anyway!) and EVERY dealer has hidden charges. And what is to be gained when you spend 2 hours with a client, test drive 4 cars, work leasing/financing payments on all of them, give them a print out and they go up the street and buy the car for $3/month less because the guy spends 10 minutes with them?

You will get out of the relationship what you put into it.

[Hudson]

YellowJacket:

As a former carsalesperson (and one who is suspicious of all salespeople), I wanted to be on your side...but I'm not.

One question, how can you expect to get book for an Impala that you say in another thread has an odd misfire, slipping tranny and a tempermental speedo?  '04 Impalas are like most GM cars from that time frame, you'll have to work your ass off to get anything out of it because they depreciate like crazy.

This is more my speed.

NADA.com does not take into consideration condition of the vehicle. All vehicles there are assumed to be in excellent condition, and you started this chat by saying that your Impala was anything but. KBB.com, on the other hand, does have four levels of condition. I ran it based on "good" (not the top rating but above what I THINK your car should be, based on your description) and found it to be similar to the number the dealer gave you.

And you want around $10,500 for a trade? That's nearly 100% more than it's worth. You're "upside down," and a dealer's nightmare. The only way I could see you getting your car paid off is by either tacking the current loan onto the new car (which is what you've described) or finding a more expensive car where they can sell it to you at MSRP and hide the $4,000 loss in the "profit." Neither one is going to make you happy.

It's not always the dealer's fault. You owe too much on the car, you expect too much for the trade, and you expect to get a base model in the deal. I understand the desire...but you have to understand the reality. Nothing's free.

The math is simple: you want a $15,500 car with a trade valued at under $7,000 with somewhere around $10,500 owed. That's approximately $19,500 plus tax and tags.

Sell the Impala for $10,000, taking a $500 loss. Buy the car you desire (Altima or G6 or whatever) straight with no trade. That's my cent and a half (inflation, you know?).

[sciguy_0504]

Going back to the same dealer/salesperson works wonders. From my experiences with KBB and Edmunds, both are fairly reliable and work when you slap them down in front of the salesperson. How about going back to where you purchased the Impala and see what they do for you? Does the dealership own any other makes besides Chevy?

[Guest YellowJacket894]

The dealership we bought the Impala from specialized in used cars made from 2004 and above. Nothing older than that.

Honestly, we really don't want to buy anything else from that dealer, anyway. I was not present when the salesman sold my parents the Impala, and if I had been, I would've managed to get it cheaper than $13,000 due to the extreme lack of features. We got really ripped-off on that car in my opinion. I mean, a casette player only? In a 2004 model? No, no. That car is worth a whole lot less than what we paid for it, I admit. And if I could've been there, we would have walked from it and could have avoided another trip to the dealer two years later.

We're still going to try the "Buy my car, I'll buy your car" offer first. Then we'll try something from there.

And, for the salesmen that responded, I appreciate your replies. It's good to get some advice from you guys.

In fine print I would like to suggest you curb your vulgarities a bit, I use them too, occasionally for proof of point, but excess is over the top and unbecoming. After all that is part of the "White Trash" scenerio we fight so hard to excape...no ?

Now, hey, I've managed to get along with you since the whole S-10 Ad fiasco. Don't start with that threadbare mantra again. I curse when I get ticked off. It's just a habit I have, sometimes I can't hold back.

And I don't get your reference to "white trash" in your disclaimer. Yeah, sure, I live in Kentucky. I know that the state I live in has that whole "State of Rednecks and White Trash" stigma. But that doesn't mean I'm "white trash." My family doesn't draw welfare, we don't live in some run-down trailer park, and we don't drive rusty old Ford Rangers with faulty transmissions. My parents work five days a week at jobs they certainly don't enjoy -- and have done damn fine for theirselves in the process, I might add -- and I plan on getting a job myself in the coming weeks so I can earn money to fuel a few projects that I have planned. If you meant that in some form to deform my character, I'd have you to know I'm very offended by it. And if that's what you intended, I'll see that the appropriate action is taken.

You understand?

Edited October 17, 2006 by YellowJacket894

[razoredge]

In fine print I would like to suggest you curb your vulgarities a bit' date=' I use them too, occasionally for proof of point, but excess is over the top and unbecoming. After all that is part of the "White Trash" scenerio we fight so hard to excape...no ?[/quote']

Now, hey, I've managed to get along with you since the whole S-10 Ad fiasco. Don't start with that threadbare mantra again. I curse when I get ticked off. It's just a habit I have, sometimes I can't hold back.

And I don't get your reference to "white trash" in your disclaimer. Yeah, sure, I live in Kentucky. I know that the state I live in has that whole "State of Rednecks and White Trash" stigma. But that doesn't mean I'm "white trash." My family doesn't draw welfare, we don't live in some run-down trailer park, and we don't drive rusty old Ford Rangers with faulty transmissions. My parents work five days a week at jobs they certainly don't enjoy -- and have done damn fine for theirselves in the process, I might add -- and I plan on getting a job myself in the coming weeks so I can earn money to fuel a few projects that I have planned. If you meant that in some form to deform my character, I'd have you to know I'm very offended by it. And if that's what you intended, I'll see that the appropriate action is taken.

You understand?

205681[/snapback]

I was making a point that should not have been hard to understand....apparently it was. Read it word for word again and try to let it sink in...I believe I used the word "we"... I believe I refered to things very fairly...I believe when I see people talking like that in public...they are trashy...I put one simple "f@#k you" in a post once and was called on it by a moderator...apparently you carry some sort of diplomatic immunity from our moderators. I was simply offering some dignified advise, that our moderators seem unable to supply... I cant see the point of the wasted typing to add the extra vulgar words. It certainly is not impressive. I dont see any .......repeat ........ANY of the other members here express themselves in that excessive a manor. I thought it was a fair friendly request.

[Cory Wolfe]

It's not so much the words you use... but how you use them. That is all the advice anyone needs as far as that goes.

[Hudson]

I curse when I get ticked off. It's just a habit I have, sometimes I can't hold back.

Really? "Can't hold back?" So you're one of those road ragers who actually pulls out a gun? No self-control?

I fully understand the anger, but can't you express yourself without the language? If you can't, you may need to get some help. No "white trash" references here...just simple intelligence comments. Please try to use less harsh language.

I like that this site allows a lower level of censorship than some other automotive forums, but there's no need to abuse it.

[trinacriabob]

You pretty much can judge a book by its cover. Within 1 minute, I know if the salesperson (cars, real estate, consumer durables) is someone that suits me and that I want to earn my commission.

They have to be knowledgeable, somewhat polished and not be pushy.

I sometimes run into people who don't know much. I've had to explain the VVT concept to some salespeople. They didn't even know it was under the hood of the cars they were selling.

If someone comes and starts talking down to me or getting real back-slappy right away, I check out. I'm thinking: act like a sales professional...it's the profession you chose, after all.

I decide when and how much I want to write a check for every month. There are others out there who don't have as much restraint in this area. A salesperson who is going to decide for me has lost the sale. (By the way, the realtor lady who is married to the doctor KEEPS calling me all the way across the US -- thus, she lost a potential sale a LOOOOONNNNNGGG time ago). I absolutely hate lingo like "how'd ya like to driving this off the lot today?" as you barely walk up to a car. What's going through my head is "f*** you."

Basically: A good salesperson knows their product, HELPS you buy what it is you are looking for, can size up who they are dealing with and adjust their performance accordingly.

Edited October 19, 2006 by trinacriabob

[Guest YellowJacket894]

Well, we bought a 2006 G6 V6 today in silver with 15,000 miles for $15,900. The info helped. Thanks guys.

I'll post more about the car later (and how it will benefit me in just a few years).