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I shouldn't even be considering this...


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Yeah, amateur aftermarket stereo install included.

There are two more lying in the back.

That alone would give me pause. Amateur+electricty=bad news. Otherwise it looks good, and thats a pretty sweet combo, 350/stick/4wd.

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That alone would give me pause. Amateur+electricty=bad news. Otherwise it looks good, and thats a pretty sweet combo, 350/stick/4wd.

That doesn't worry me, it looks like he just didn't finish the job.

But.

Something in the driveline is quite broken - I'm thinking output shaft in the transfer case.

And

It has the most bizzare rust problem - the tailgate hinges are completely rusted off of the sheetmetal they were welded to. Or rather the sheetmetal at the welds just rusted away. It has NO other body rust anywhere, including the rest of that panel - very odd.

Otherwise its seems to be in great shape.

186K miles but the engine is newer. The guy says it is from a '97.

Runs pretty good, and still moves.

But I'd have to trailer it home as the driveline clank is ominous.

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I've known people who bought cars with aftermarket stereo equipment installed, but the seller never bothered telling them the radio was hard wired to the battery, so if you park the car with the radio on it kills the battery. Yes, I know stupid people. But thats why amateur electrical work is something I'm not a huge fan of, people do dumb $h!.

But driveline problems are a far larger concern. Hinge rust with no other rust seems a bit odd too.

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That alone would give me pause. Amateur+electricty=bad news. Otherwise it looks good, and thats a pretty sweet combo, 350/stick/4wd.

Ugh...any trim panels ruined from amateur speaker 'installs'? The exposed speaker and wire is disturbing.

Rob

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Yeah, I'm going to price out some worst case scenarios first.

The localized rust thing is so strange - haven't figured that out at all.

The taillgate hinge issue could be from bad weatherstripping or a leak around the rear glass?

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The taillgate hinge issue could be from bad weatherstripping or a leak around the rear glass?

No, it is only in a 2"x3" rectangle where the hinges mounted - everything else back there is fine.

Maybe a quickie repair at some point without the benefit of paint after welding?

It's a puzzle.

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305,4WD,5 speed FTW.

Yeah, I'm going to price out some worst case scenarios first.

The localized rust thing is so strange - haven't figured that out at all.

Did he use the vehicle to transport like ice or something?

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No, it is only in a 2"x3" rectangle where the hinges mounted - everything else back there is fine.

Maybe a quickie repair at some point without the benefit of paint after welding?

It's a puzzle.

Is that rectangle look a separate (welded-in) piece from the surrounding metal? May be a different metal or not undercoated or sealed like the surrounding area... I've seen wierd rust on hinges themselves before..

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Is that rectangle look a separate (welded-in) piece from the surrounding metal? May be a different metal or not undercoated or sealed like the surrounding area... I've seen wierd rust on hinges themselves before..

No, it is one single panel with two rectangular holes where the hinges were welded on. It rotted from the backsideout to the hinge and just pulled free. I think it was bare metal after welding that did it, but I'll have to take it apart to find out.

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The more I study the photos the more I like it Camino. I would love to see you get it and treat it well provided you can swing it any possible fixes she may need. That truck deserves a good home and is very nice shape at least from your photos. Do what you think is right in your gut. I know you'll make the right choice. Neat truck though.

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I just feel that it was repaired wrong somehow...can't explain it.

Need more pics.. :yes:

OK, I got no such vibe from it in person fortunately.

You'll be getting plenty of pics if I decide to bring her home. :AH-HA_wink:

Underneath it looks very good, the floorboards are perfect, not too grimy. only minor surface rust on the frame and none on the sheetmetal.

Interior is in very good shape as is the dash.

You'll have to take my word on that for now.

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I dont know wtf GM was using on their old full-framers, but the Buick is insanely solid for spending 20 winters in Missouri. Friggen stout.

Amen to that!

All three of my '77s are just as solid, including the parts car which is otherwise a total rust bucket.

WTH is wrong with Toyota?

They should have had no trouble doing the same, I don't get it - it makes no sense.

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Flat gray plastic grille?

Winner!

Should be chrome on this one - the black grille only came with the "sport" option.

In this case, the chrome was shot, so the current owner painted it.

I'm also wondering if the two-tone is original to this truck.

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Didn't these usually have black plastic mirrors and chrome grilles?

Good eye on the mirrors, the one on the pass. side is wrong entirely. On the driver's side, I'm not certain as this is the first year of this bodystyle (the later years defintely had black plastic mirrors).

There is another detail that is wrong for the year which no one has mentioned yet.

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Although you saw the truck in person and know 100x more than I do about mechanical conditions, I too am not getting a good vibe from the three pictures you posted (though I do trust your judgment and believe what you've stated about its condition). I noticed the flat-black grille right off the bat, the crooked passenger side mirror (if I'm not mistaken, and I'm pretty sure I'm 100% correct here, those types of mirrors were standard '92-'94 and the black plastic mirrors started in '95), the aftermarket-looking fender flares (though I do know that GM offered them as factory options), and the underside coloring of the hood are what make me cautious. Like Satty already stated, you want to be careful with someone else's wiring manners (haphazardly placed speakers). As for another detail wrong - the hubcap covers should be solid and not have the exposed lug nuts. Am I right?

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Although you saw the truck in person and know 100x more than I do about mechanical conditions, I too am not getting a good vibe from the three pictures you posted (though I do trust your judgment and believe what you've stated about its condition). I noticed the flat-black grille right off the bat, the crooked passenger side mirror (if I'm not mistaken, and I'm pretty sure I'm 100% correct here, those types of mirrors were standard '92-'94 and the black plastic mirrors started in '95), the aftermarket-looking fender flares (though I do know that GM offered them as factory options), and the underside coloring of the hood are what make me cautious. Like Satty already stated, you want to be careful with someone else's wiring manners (haphazardly placed speakers). As for another detail wrong - the hubcap covers should be solid and not have the exposed lug nuts. Am I right?

Wow!

You are so close that I'll give it to you.

The wheels themselves are from a later year.

As for the rest, this is a very cheap find - so consider that when you see my description of the truck. :AH-HA_wink:

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Well depending on what you can get it for, I think it's worth the effort to fix it up. It's the right powertrain combo, and a very rare one that you'll never find again. Aside from the amateur stereo install (which no matter how bad it is can be remedied if you're patient), the interior looks great. As a quick fix you can probably find a tailgate from a junkyard, ebay, etc - I think the Suburbans came with clamshell tailgates also - and spray it at your leisure. The clanking problem no doubt is serious, but assuming you don't have to replace the entire transfer case, parts should be reasonable in price.

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Describe the clunk for me. Is it when you stop and come to a rest and it CLUNKS when it settles or when you let the clutch out and the truck settles back on its haunches when under power?

It COULD be the DRIVE SHAFT - they are a slip style that needs to be greased heavily or it CLUNKS HARD under stopping and starting conditions. We had one of these shorty Blazers and it was the ONLY problem we ever had with the truck. A little grease in the slip yoke solved the problem for us - just grease the hell out of it at EVERY oil change and it stops doing it.

Just my two cents... neat truck btw. I have to wonder if you go through all the trouble to paint the grille, why not match the paint???

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Hey Camino, I am very excited for you, while I can understand others concerns and so called bad vibes. I have loved these trucks and even on my 94 Suburban ran into the hing issue you talked about on the rear door.

For me, the gasket was installed wrong by GM on the assembly line and it focused water onto the hings and they started to rust. Here in Seattle where 9 months of the year is drizzel or rain, an issue like that starts rust fast, I was able to GM right at the end of the warranty to replace the seals and complete door. In this case, I would say you could probably pick up a replacement door, get it painted to match and put in new seals and have it solid and done right instead of trying to replace just the hings and weld it and then paint etc.

Personally, I love what I see on the truck and would strip it down to the frame, sand blast it, have the frame galvanized and then build it back up clean. You could pick up the Ramjet 350 to go in that baby along with a clean new wiring harness to eliminate any electrical issues. Best thing yet is that the new harnesses have all the updated connections so if you decide to add newer features you have the connections to do this.

In regards to the drive line clunk, I would say have a transmission shop give you a free review. At least here in Kirkland WA, there is an awesome tranny place where the owner will take the auto out and test drive it and then put it on the rack and check it out and give you an estimate of what is wrong etc. If you want to pay the $99, they will drop the tranny and check it out a bit more and give you an even further detailed estimate. I have had a clunk in my driveline and they found it to be at the connection of the driveline to tranny, pressed out the universal joint and replaced the neck as it had somehow become broken and once that was fixed it was smooth as if it was brand new. But I feel it will still be a minor issue for you once you get a good look at the driveline. Could be just a slip yoke issue, or spline stub end missing a few teeth.

It could be rebuilt to be really clean, OEM new looking and have a fun kick in the ass engine.

Looking forward to additional pics as you get started on the project. I would not worry about the internal stuff like the missing AWOL rear speaker covers, if you want OEM, those are easy to get still and really you could pick up some nice aftermarket covers that look even better. :D

Rock on with the new baby! :metal:

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The option label is on the bottom of the glovebox. It will tell you if it was a factory two-tone job. You should see two color codes at the bottom right of the label, one with "U" for upper and one with "L" for lower color. The grille and mirrors stand out as non-correct, the wheels are a bit more obscurely incorrect. Good luck if you decide to buy it, you've been looking for one forever.
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Thanks Ocn.

I had already planned to check the paint codes - not that it really matters since, if I ever painted it, I likely go with a solid color anyway.

I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning to make my offer.

Go for it, and a set of flowmasters on that Blazer would make it so bad-a$$.

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Thanks Ocn.

I had already planned to check the paint codes - not that it really matters since, if I ever painted it, I likely go with a solid color anyway.

With the red interior, several colors for the exterior could work..white, black, silver, red, dark gray or maroon..(the last 2 would be my choices).

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Spill the beans, Camino. :)

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