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Intrepidation

Info On Oil Filters

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The XG Fram is the only one I would consider. The others are just garbage. Facts are facts: cardboard end caps with poor fitting and bad anti drain-back valve seal design that leaks. Leaky seals are not "ok" The XG is decent but the other stuff has no place in my cars.

They still hold up decent. Depends On your OCI......

Though If I did use fram, it would be the XG....

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Once upon a time, Fram really made the best stuff - several takeovers later the story is different.

I use AC/Delco or NAPA Gold.

Delco or Wix. (NAPA Golds are made by Wix) for me....

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What I know is this: running Castrol GTX High Mileage oil and a Fram filter, the Intrepid always had a cold startup tick. When it was warm the tick would last a couple seconds, when it was below 50 it would last until the car was fully warmed up. With the RP oil and filter there is no startup tick when its above 40 and the tick is only present for a second when it's say, 17 degrees out, even after sitting for days. That's all I need to say goodbye to conventional oil and piss off to Fram.

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My father in law works at the Purolater plant in Fayetteville, NC and he has told me several times that the best filtrating filter they have is the regular FL-1A. I always buy NAPA Gold though.

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NAPA / Wix here.

FL-1A is a 'big boy' filter, my 300 Ford took them; no doubt the volume of filtration material has something to do with it being a 'good one', tho I thought 'FL-1A' was a Motorcraft designation.

Most filters are too small anymore, IMO.

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Agreed on the too small part. I'm thinking about using an oversized filter for the 3.5. On 2.7 engines the filter is located on the oil pan, facing down. Any longer and it'll be kissing pavement. On 3.2/3/5 engines its mounted in the side of the engine, making it possible to use a bigger filter.

You can see the normal filter on this 3.5 being yanked out of an Intrepid.

Newengine-zzzzzzzzz.jpg

An the oversized filter on the replacement 3.5...

Newengine-zzzzzzzzzz.jpg

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A LOT of the AC Delco filters got way too small. PF-24 was the 'regular' sized unit, but a common modern one was the PF-47, a 'small' one. They should never be smaller than the old PF-24s, IMO, regardless of the engine or oil recommendation.

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Filters of the same brand do vary, though I've noticed Purolators tend to be of decent quality. The Purolator L40316 used on the Passat 1.8t is ginormous... made by Mann in Germany:

P8210046.jpg

The Purolator I use on the Ody V6 is tiny but made in the US.

Edited by pow
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Filters of the same brand do vary, though I've noticed Purolators tend to be of decent quality. The Purolator L40316 used on the Passat 1.8t is ginormous... made by Mann in Germany:

P8210046.jpg

The Purolator I use on the Ody V6 is tiny but made in the US.

Wow!

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NAPA / Wix here.

FL-1A is a 'big boy' filter, my 300 Ford took them; no doubt the volume of filtration material has something to do with it being a 'good one', tho I thought 'FL-1A' was a Motorcraft designation.

Most filters are too small anymore, IMO.

I agree on the size thing.

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Some more good info: http://minimopar.kni.../reference.html

More proof that Fram makes junk for the most part. I'm sticking with PureOne, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Bosch, or K&N. Only the best for my cars.

Eh, a filter is a filter (No china ones though), depends on how long you use it...

The orange can of doom doesn't scare me....

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Eh, a filter is a filter (No china ones though), depends on how long you use it...

The orange can of doom doesn't scare me....

All filters are not created equal. Do a little a little research and you'll see just how unequal some of them really are. AC Delco Duraguard, STP, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Ecore Champ filters, and any Fram besides the Tough Guard (which I still wouldn't buy) are no where near as good (or even good) as the filters I mentioned in my last post.

I care about my car far too much to put substandard parts, fluids, and filters in it.

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I like the PureOnes... I'm not really concerned about any oil pressure spikes because of the engines I'm running.

Slight tangent - is there any point to putting synthetic into the Toronado now that it has 90k on the clock? It's about time for her first oil change on my watch... last one was performed just before I purchased it.

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Synthetic has superior lubricating properties to conventional oil, it also handles high temperatures better and doesn't brake down like conventional oil will. Both cars use Mobil 1, and with the Intrepid in particular, it runs noticeably smoother (especially on cold starts) with M1 and a good filter than conventional and a POS Fram. Comes out much cleaner too.

But don't take my word for it:

40k on this one:

005-1.jpg

This engine's got 250k on it.

Truck010.jpg

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Right, but if they started out with synthetic as opposed to switching to synthetic at 90k miles.... that's the question..... is there any point at this point?

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The 3.5 started out from start, the Ram was switched over.

Like I said, synthetic offer superior lubrication to conventional oil. That alone makes it worth it in my book. You cans witch to synthetic at any time. The Prizm has 196k when I switched it and the Intrepid's 3.5 had 125k when I switched.

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All filters are not created equal. Do a little a little research and you'll see just how unequal some of them really are. AC Delco Duraguard, STP, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Ecore Champ filters, and any Fram besides the Tough Guard (which I still wouldn't buy) are no where near as good (or even good) as the filters I mentioned in my last post.

I care about my car far too much to put substandard parts, fluids, and filters in it.

You're kinda missing the point, DF. You buy the filter you need for the OCI you plan to do.( City, highway, etc.)

Much of it is going to depend on the driving style and the milage being but on the oil. Like using a M1 oil and filter for a 3k all highway oil change. That would be a waste of money when plain old dino oil could be used....

Trust me, I know all about this stuff. I put in the best the common sense allows.

I say that knowing I'm running M1, Quaker State UD full synthetic( Dexos 1 approved), and Napa full synthetic (Valvoline private brand) with AC delco cartridges (hengst USA made) in my cars right. now.

The really no such thing as wrong when you care for your car. So you're doing fine!8)

Edited by daves87rs
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I like the PureOnes... I'm not really concerned about any oil pressure spikes because of the engines I'm running.

Slight tangent - is there any point to putting synthetic into the Toronado now that it has 90k on the clock? It's about time for her first oil change on my watch... last one was performed just before I purchased it.

Just buy M1 High milage or Valvoline Maxlife Full syntheric (It's out there!) if you're worried about the car leaking from the seals and gaskets (It might, depending on car the engine was cared for.) The only thing you would have to be worried about is if the full syn is cleaning out build up in there( deposit wise)....that would cause the leaks.

If the engine was well cared for, I'd just go M1 then...

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A healthy engine will run synthetic just fine no matter the miles. If you're worried about oil damaging it then you have much bigger problems with that engine to worry about.

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You're kinda missing the point, DF. You buy the filter you need for the OCI you plan to do.( City, highway, etc.)

Much of it is going to depend on the driving style and the milage being but on the oil. Like using a M1 oil and filter for a 3k all highway oil change. That would be a waste of money when plain old dino oil could be used....

Trust me, I know all about this stuff. I put in the best the common sense allows.

I say that knowing I'm running M1, Quaker State UD full synthetic( Dexos 1 approved), and Napa full synthetic (Valvoline private brand) with AC delco cartridges (hengst USA made) in my cars right. now.

The really no such thing as wrong when you care for your car. So you're doing fine!8)

There is if say, the filter design is insufficient. Oil is only as good as the filter that's keeping it clean. Driving style has nothing to do with how well a filter works, the design and construction of he filter do. You're welcome to use paper media held together by cardboard and glue with poor ant drain back valve design, but I won't. Especially when quality filters like PureOne are often bundled with oil change deals.

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There is if say, the filter design is insufficient. Oil is only as good as the filter that's keeping it clean. Driving style has nothing to do with how well a filter works, the design and construction of he filter do. You're welcome to use paper media held together by cardboard and glue with poor ant drain back valve design, but I won't. Especially when quality filters like PureOne are often bundled with oil change deals.

*sigh*

Anyways, we could agrue all day, but it simply comes down to what you like.

I've used Frams before on my wagon and old s10, and never had a problem. Never ran them for more than 3k though. I'll never buy the cheap stuff (like those chinese sub 2 buck filters), beacuse those I would be worried about.

I've help put supertech, STP, Fram filter's on my brother's Caliber (He's not too heavy into car maintance), the the car is still in good shape at 65k. I wish I would have taken a picture of the cover...and tiny bit of varnish, but it was in really good shape for a I'll take-care-of-it-when-I-have-time car.

I use the good stuff because I like my cars, and I expect a lot out of them.

I've been running nothing but M1 and delco/wix fliters in the wife's Cav, and when I had to take the cover off to adjust the gasket, it was very clean inside.

A healthy engine will run synthetic just fine no matter the miles. If you're worried about oil damaging it then you have much bigger problems with that engine to worry about.

Agreed!

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Older vehicles almost always leak something... I fully expect that I'll need to do the valve cover gaskets this winter after I've switched the car now to full synthetic..... but this is a 30 year old car that I'm trying to preserve. If it needs gaskets... it'll get gaskets.

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Yep! After running M1 for years, I'm going to have to replace the oil pan gasket, as it's seeping out a bit. Other than that, I'm a happy camper!

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Always something in a thirty year old car....

Trying to preserve a ten year old one is enough of a struggle for me right now....

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