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Intrepidation

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Posts posted by Intrepidation

  1. I love the 308 GTS, but even if I could afford to take care of it, I'd be afraid to drive it I think. The Cutlass you could enjoy cruising in and not be nervous a scratch would cost thousands to fix. Also it would likely making to its destination and back.

  2. Having not been on here in a while, I can say that its exactly the same as the last time I browsed here. A thread gets posted, and then the same group of people getting pissing and voting matches with each other. The thread gets derailed, and any semblance of discussion devolves in to trash. It'd be one thing if this was once in a while, but this is daily, and involves most threads. Case in point.

    • Agree 2
  3. AH, the old C&G Curse strikes again. Credit to the crash structures and safety systems modern cars have though. The passenger compartment looks undamaged, the crash structure absorbed all of the impact.

    Now if you (or that Caravan driver) had been in a Chevy Venture for example...

     

  4. While it is marketing, its not technically untrue. The military does use aluminum is its equipment, from aircraft to weapons to ships. Tanks don't solely make up the US Military. For example, they use 5000-series - 7000-series aluminum. The F-150 is made with 6000-series aluminum. This grade of aluminum  would technically be used in military applications, thereby, according to Ford, making it "military grade".

  5. Since last Spring, the trunk lid has come down with a case of Chrysler clear coat peel. Started out with just a couple small spots, but quickly got worse to the point where it became very unsightly. Even was enough, so over my vacation I took a couple days to correct this.

    Here's the problem:

     

    IMG_20160925_174403575.jpg

     

    IMG_20160929_130544922.jpg

    Here's the solution:

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    IMG_20160923_171222569.jpg

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    I used SEM high build primer, sealer, Diamont base coat, mixed to the paint code, and cleared it with 2k Glamour clear coat.

    SEM primer is superior to Duplicolor primer.

    Likewise, Diamont is a high quality base, like Chroma-base, which are better quality than Nason base.

    The clear coat is special. Unlike any other clear coat product in a spray can, this contains hardener. This stuff is more on par with what a body shop would actually use. Once you activate it (pressing the plunger at the bottom of the can in), you get 48 hours to use it. This stuff means business, so I got a respirator for applying the chemicals.

    I removed the trunk lid to make it easier to work on and not have to mask off surrounding areas. This worked out, because it got cool that night, so I brought the lid inside to cure overnight.

    IMG_20160929_135351582_HDR.jpg

    Sanded down. Really wish I had a DA sander (and a compressor). Had to make do with a drill and 3M Stikit attachment. Better then hand sanding, because even this method took a couple hours, but I couldn't it perfectly smooth because of the radial action and difficulty keeping it stable on a drill.

    IMG_20160929_155618071.jpgIMG_20160929_161740441_HDR.jpg

    Primed.

    IMG_20160929_174819132.jpg

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    In the garage for paint.

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    Finally, clear.

    IMG_20160929_233850238.jpg

    One thing I learned while experimenting with the left ever clear I had, is that this, unlike most paints, like to go on heavy. I did medium coats and got noticeable orange peel. Being that I really only had one shot at this, I didn't want to make runs and hadn't used the product before. However, I used it on an old Matchbox (1988) I had test painted, and applied it heavily. very glossy.

    IMG_20161001_213544008.jpg

    Learning experience for when I do the Prizm's roof. Also not doing that project without a DA sander.

    The lid needed to dry overnight, so the Intrepid slept with no trunk. Luckily the rain held off.

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    That was Friday. Today was the perfect day to wet sand and buff. Cool, cloudy, but dry.

    I wet sanded starting at 1000 grit, then moving to 1500 > 2000 > 2500 and finally 3000 before buffing it with 3M rubbing compound and 3M polishing compound with my radial buffer.

    IMG_20161002_162355085.jpg

    IMG_20161002_171420114.jpg

    IMG_20161002_171358318.jpg

    Like a mirror. Until I get to buff the rest of the car, its currently a better finish than the factory paint (its due for a good detailing).

    IMG_20161002_171342016.jpg

    As you can see, there is a hue difference up close, no doubt due to the 16 year difference in paints. However, from a few feet away its hardly noticeable, which is impressive considering I didn't blend any panels.

    So from start to finish:

    IMG_20160929_130604189_HDR.jpg

    IMG_20161002_161149789.jpg

    IMG_20161002_164952816.jpg

    IMG_20161002_171330253.jpg

    While not perfect, I'm very happy with the results. Its a damn sight better than it was, and it keeps the car presentable until such time as I can have the whole thing repainted.

     

     

     

     

  6. The Rouge was the last Nissan to not have any weird styling elements and in turn both the most cohesive and arguably best looking of everything currently in the lineup.

    This refresh is change for change's sake, and while its better than the Murano, the newest front end is still BOLD FOR BOLDNESS BECAUSE MORE BOLD AND ALSO BIGGER.It's not bad but its not better.

  7. I like the new look except the way unread content. Seems less intuitive and more busy than the old one.

    Critically though, it works well on mobile devices. The old site ran like a drugged, drunk, quadriplegic horse.

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