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Possible Cat Issue?


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I've noticed in the last few weeks my wagon has started losing power on its pick up.

It struggles to get up to speed-but seems to be ok once it gets there-until I have stop again.

I was planning to replace the pcv valve, fuel filter-possibly the IAC.

But I've noticed that it really gotten worse as it has finally warmed up.

But I'm wondering- could the cat be causing most of these issues?

(After BV's Fire' and my dad bringing it up-it got me thinking)

The car has hadsome bad gas in it's life-even had some a few months ago (thanks, BP. :censored: )

And the Cat has never been replaced, which is now over 140,000 miles.

What do you guys think?

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What car are we dealing with I'm unfamilier with what you drive. If it is newer with OBD2 with the oxygen sensor after the cat. then it might set a code if your converter was on its way out. Loosing power is a symtom but other times when it plugs up you will experience a rough idle and bad gas mileage. When they get plugged sometimes you can look at the cat and it will show visual distotions in color if it is heating up due to being clogged. Otherwise it might just be time for plugs wires and the regular stuff.

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On my second car the 1992 Oldsmobile Toronado I am having the same issues. It is a project car I am bringing back. It sounds horrible at idle when you start it. Something is open. Once the parts heat up and expand it sounds fine. I am getting a bad gas mileage. I can tell you the wires and plugs have been replaced. The pcv valve is fine because it passed emissions inspection. Also I looked underneath near the catalytic converter the other day I saw the extension pipe moving( vibrating) when it had the bad idle at start up. I also felt heat at my feet when standing by the side of the car. Also when I drive and I hit a rough spot on the street, I hear rumbling like something is loose.

I knew then something was going on underneath near or on the catalytic converter. My neighbor was in my driveway last Friday and we were starting my car, and I had to get a new battery( another story) he said you have a bad cat. I can tell you just by the sound when it starts and that heat. Once you replace your cat, that noise will go away and your mileage will go back up. I can tell how bad it is based on my Ninety Eight. I drove my Ninety Eight on the same streets and it use little or no gas. I drove the Toronado on the same streets and it used gas like it was a GMC or Chevy truck. I had even used fuel engine cleaner from my mechanic.

Here is what a bad catalytic converter will do:

There are two ways a converter can fail:

* It can become clogged.

* It can become poisoned.

There really is no "inspection port" for the consumer or mechanic to see an actual clog in a converter. Often, the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a clogged converter is suspected, some mechanics temporarily remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter and look for a change in performance.

A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded gasoline and the over-use of certain fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter.

A catalytic converter can also fail because of:

* Bad exhaust valves on the engine

* Fouled plugs causing unburned fuel to overheat the converter

Sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because you don't go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A partially clogged converter often acts like an engine governor, limiting the actual RPMs to a fast idle. A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure.

The catalytic converter, like the rest of the emissions system, typically has a warranty length that exceeds the term of the warranty for the rest of a typical U.S. automobile.

Here is a safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your car's perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot…enough to start fires! You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape, to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.

The link I got this from:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question482.htm

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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What car are we dealing with I'm unfamilier with what you drive. If it is newer with OBD2 with the oxygen sensor after the cat. then it might set a code if your converter was on its way out. Loosing power is a symtom but other times when it plugs up you will experience a rough idle and bad gas mileage. When they get plugged sometimes you can look at the cat and it will show visual distotions in color if it is heating up due to being clogged. Otherwise it might just be time for plugs wires and the regular stuff.

93 Cavalier Wagon w/ the 3.1. 140,000 miles

And I get both a rough idle and bad gas milage. So a clogged Cat can cause rough idle? Like shaking bad?

I checked to see if it turns red and such-but no luck. Though the car doesn't drive that far anywhere at the moment,

so that might not help me...

It got plugs and wires at about 125k, though it was a few years ago....

I was think IAC valve, but now I'm wondering....

The cat has been on the car since new.

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On my second car the 1992 Oldsmobile Toronado I am having the same issues. It is a project car I am bringing back. It sounds horrible at idle when you start it. Something is open. Once the parts heat up and expand it sounds fine. I am getting a bad gas mileage. I can tell you the wires and plugs have been replaced. The pcv valve is fine because it passed emissions inspection. Also I looked underneath near the catalytic converter the other day I saw the extension pipe moving( vibrating) when it had the bad idle at start up. I also felt heat at my feet when standing by the side of the car. Also when I drive and I hit a rough spot on the street, I hear rumbling like something is loose.

I knew then something was going on underneath near or on the catalytic converter. My neighbor was in my driveway last Friday and we were starting my car, and I had to get a new battery( another story) he said you have a bad cat. I can tell you just by the sound when it starts and that heat. Once you replace your cat, that noise will go away and your mileage will go back up. I can tell how bad it is based on my Ninety Eight. I drove my Ninety Eight on the same streets and it use little or no gas. I drove the Toronado on the same streets and it used gas like it was a GMC or Chevy truck. I had even used fuel engine cleaner from my mechanic.

Here is what a bad catalytic converter will do:

There are two ways a converter can fail:

* It can become clogged.

* It can become poisoned.

There really is no "inspection port" for the consumer or mechanic to see an actual clog in a converter. Often, the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a clogged converter is suspected, some mechanics temporarily remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter and look for a change in performance.

A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded gasoline and the over-use of certain fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter.

A catalytic converter can also fail because of:

* Bad exhaust valves on the engine

* Fouled plugs causing unburned fuel to overheat the converter

Sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because you don't go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A partially clogged converter often acts like an engine governor, limiting the actual RPMs to a fast idle. A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure.

The catalytic converter, like the rest of the emissions system, typically has a warranty length that exceeds the term of the warranty for the rest of a typical U.S. automobile.

Here is a safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your car's perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot…enough to start fires! You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape, to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.

The link I got this from:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question482.htm

Wow, that's a goor read, 98. :thumbsup:

Some of that sounds like my car too.

But I wondering how I could tell the difference between it being the cat or say, the IAC valve.

Though thinking about it, replacing the MAP sensor didn't help much, it didn't fix the rough idle...

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WOW, that is a great write up from How Stuff Works. I work on developing and testing catalytic converters at work, and after reading the first thread I thought I would have to type all that up, but that write up explains it very well.

From the symptoms you are describing, I wouldn't hesitate in replacing the converter.

When cats go bad the exhaust has a funny smell. I cant really describe it, but it is noticeable.

Here is a safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your car's perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot…enough to start fires! You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape, to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.

At work, I have seen cats get up to 1000* F :fiery:

Edited by schuby87
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I was thinking the same thing.

About how much does a Cat run? 100 bucks? 150?

Depends on the car, but can be several hundreds of dollars. From what I understand mine isn't that expensive... I have a 92 Century, 3300 V6.

My mechanic told me a month ago that my cat converter was just starting to go... however, I didn't expect the symptoms I'm getting. I mean, I notice a sluggishness... just a bit. But I hear such a loud metallic rattling sound as well. Last time I heard that, it was because of the heat shield. Now, I'm also hearing a high-pitched chirping sound between 40-60mph... so I have no idea what's up.

Anyway, sorry, don't want to steal away from your thread. Let me know if you have any of those symptoms too.

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Huge increase in power, improved idle quality, lower operating temperature, easier starting, etc.

In short, it ran better in every way.

I noticed just driving it is sluggish like it going the same speed even though the speedometer is going up. The idle upon start up is horrible. and it does heat up quick too. It gets hot. When starting... oh brother.. it sounds horrible. I hope my gas mileage will go up. I drove it today, and it is sucking gas like it is going out of style. I might have to stop driving it until I can get those issues fixed. The rpms are low too. they never go past like 900 something.

Thank you Camino.....

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Huge increase in power, improved idle quality, lower operating temperature, easier starting, etc.

In short, it ran better in every way.

Now that would be nice.

I don't think I pull 200 miles out of a tank now....better gas milage would be sweet too.

This thing used to have great get up and go....

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Really and truly the cat doesn't have a "probable milegage failure" like some parts do, you know, you more or less expect to replace a set of brake pads every 50k-80k miles, and stuff like that, you could possibly buy a new car off the lot with a bad cat. It all depends on the quality control placed on the parts when they leave their manufacturers. Although given your description, it sounds like a cat problem, considering that it is an OBD-I car, and you don't possibly have emissions inspections, you could always straight pipe the cat and let that be that.

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Really and truly the cat doesn't have a "probable milegage failure" like some parts do, you know, you more or less expect to replace a set of brake pads every 50k-80k miles, and stuff like that, you could possibly buy a new car off the lot with a bad cat. It all depends on the quality control placed on the parts when they leave their manufacturers. Although given your description, it sounds like a cat problem, considering that it is an OBD-I car, and you don't possibly have emissions inspections, you could always straight pipe the cat and let that be that.

I guess I'm lucky I got 14 years put of that cat then. I've been replacing a few parts thinking it might be a fuel issue

(Map sensor, etc) , I never thought it owuld be the cat.

Would straight piping be an issue with city driving?

I might just replace the cat- hopefully that might help.

Does a bad cat cause really rough idle?

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Well, that all depends on your state's emission guidelines. Here in Alabama, you can slice the cats off anything, there's no state-mandated emissions testing. As far as driving with one straight-piped, no difference, in fact, you may notice a slight increase in oomph when it comes down to it since there will be free-er flow through the exhaust system. And yes, a bad cat can cause a rough idle, lack of acceleration, crappy fuel mileage, a change in exhaust smell, increase engine temperatures, and eventually keep the engine from running completely.

More or less think of your engine as a big air pump, it sucks air in, compresses it, and pushes it out. If the catalytic converter is clogged up (the honeycombing inside has collapsed and blocked exhaust from getting out), then the engine can't exhale like it needs to, which means that it has to work even harder to suck air in and compress it since there's a backlog in getting it out.

Hope that this helps.

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You guys are right.. They information you are giving us is correct. I found out today my Toronado has not only a bad cat, but an exhaust leak too. It is near the cat where the leak is. I will have to have the cat and the exhaust leak( pipe) replaced too. That explained the sluggish performance and the bad gas mileage and the rattling too.

The gas mileage is so bad, you would think I was driving a Chevrolet Silverado with the biggest V8.

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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You guys are right.. They information you are giving us is correct. I found out today my Toronado has not only a bad cat, but an exhaust leak too. It is near the cat where the leak is. I will have to have the cat and the exhaust leak( pipe) replaced too. That explained the sluggish performance and the bad gas mileage and the rattling too.

The gas mileage is so bad, you would think I was driving a Chevrolet Silverado with the biggest V8.

The wagon has v8 milage right now..... and city driving isn't helping either.

The only saving grace is that is does just local driving at the moment...as it seems to be getting worse as it has been warming up the last few weeks....

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Well, that all depends on your state's emission guidelines. Here in Alabama, you can slice the cats off anything, there's no state-mandated emissions testing. As far as driving with one straight-piped, no difference, in fact, you may notice a slight increase in oomph when it comes down to it since there will be free-er flow through the exhaust system. And yes, a bad cat can cause a rough idle, lack of acceleration, crappy fuel mileage, a change in exhaust smell, increase engine temperatures, and eventually keep the engine from running completely.

More or less think of your engine as a big air pump, it sucks air in, compresses it, and pushes it out. If the catalytic converter is clogged up (the honeycombing inside has collapsed and blocked exhaust from getting out), then the engine can't exhale like it needs to, which means that it has to work even harder to suck air in and compress it since there's a backlog in getting it out.

Hope that this helps.

Thanks.

I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the cat...I have a feeling( thanks to you guys) that it is probably the issue....

Hopefully it's not too pricey....

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The wagon has v8 milage right now..... and city driving isn't helping either.

The only saving grace is that is does just local driving at the moment...as it seems to be getting worse as it has been warming up the last few weeks....

You are on the money about that one!! I noticed too since it has been warmer it is worse. I do city driving and it sucks the gas out of my car like nothing. That is why after this week, I am going to put it in the driveway until the first of June. The Ninety Eight will be the way to go until then. I really do not see how people drive SUV's and big trucks the way they do..

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92-ish Cavalier wagon, 3.1L, right? Hold on, I'll get you a price or three.

Oooh... what about mine? How much would I cost? 3.3L V6 92 Century? Mine needs to be replaced... just don't want to get screwed by a place when I get it done.
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Looks like yours is a pipe/converter set up, so all you'd have to do is disconnect the pipe at both ends and drop the whole smash out, if you had a good couple of jacks, or a set of ramps, you could easily do it yourself.

AutoZone: $131

Advance: $178

CarQuest: $190

NAPA: couldn't find it

Now aside from buying the direct fit unit like what I've priced you, you could always buy a universal converter, but again, you'd have to cut and splice the exhaust pipe to get it in there.

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Yeah, roughly, then you've got the labor involved. Most of the notes I've seen about it is that they entire exhaust system on the car is welded togther, so there'll be some cutting and splicing done to get any of those to fit in.

Yep.

Looks like either Murray's (84 bucks) or Autozone then.

I found a place that will put in on for around 50 bucks....not bad. So around 140 bucks...not bad.

Thanks 76-I owe you a beer, my friend. :thumbsup:

I'm getting it done next week....I'll update when the new cat is on-let everyone know how much it helped....

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You are on the money about that one!! I noticed too since it has been warmer it is worse. I do city driving and it sucks the gas out of my car like nothing. That is why after this week, I am going to put it in the driveway until the first of June. The Ninety Eight will be the way to go until then. I really do not see how people drive SUV's and big trucks the way they do..

Yep. When it got really warm a few weeks ago..I think I got like 20ish miles on a half tank......

I don't live too far from work-so it's not hitting me too hard yet....though after it's up and running, there are a few places I want to take it.... :thumbsup:

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Beer not required. Remember, selling parts and looking up prices for parts is my job. That's why I'm a CounterPro at CarQuest because I'm a parts guy.

Yeah-but you're a helpful guy....always helping us out-and you have good insight on stuff...

That in itself deserves a beer. :thumbsup:

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Looks like yours is a pipe/converter set up, so all you'd have to do is disconnect the pipe at both ends and drop the whole smash out, if you had a good couple of jacks, or a set of ramps, you could easily do it yourself.

AutoZone: $131

Advance: $178

CarQuest: $190

NAPA: couldn't find it

Now aside from buying the direct fit unit like what I've priced you, you could always buy a universal converter, but again, you'd have to cut and splice the exhaust pipe to get it in there.

Okay, so if my mechanic said about 350 (including labor) he wasn't far off, no?

Thanks!

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Sounds a bit high if the labor is easy though....

I supposed it depends how much the cat is...

That was what he said over the phone "First I'd have to find a cat... but if I had to say... maybe 350?"

We'll see. I'm going to Advance tomorrow and see what they can tell me.

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How much is a catalytic converter and the extension pipes for a 1992 Toronado?

Please let me know if you can sir.

I found a diagram online of my exhaust system, and looked at my car. I can see the catalytic converter is bad( the major source of the rattle), the pipes on either side of it are in bad shape too. One of the pipes vibrates as the engine is running. The start up is really horrible and I also discovered driving it with the window down today I smelled some bad fumes and not only that, I still heard that bad idle even when the car is moving. I can describe the sound. It sounds like a muscle car or a diesel powered car.

I had to put the Toronado up today until I can get it fixed in June. I was on less than a half of tank Monday. Just driving it to work this week put it was way less than a 1/4 of a tank. On the digital bars it is on the last three. one of them being empty. I said I cannot keep driving this car like that.

That catalytic converter and exhaust leak can really cause some bad gas mileage. I have never seen gas go like that except on a big engined truck.

So I am still at a loss why it sounds bad at start up and at idle and why the gas mileage is so bad.

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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I went outdoors this morning with the Oldsmobile Technicians book.

I checked all the areas they say for poor fuel economy. I checked the car according to the book.

I found:

The coolant tank looks nasty!! It was off color and look like it had green mold or something floating in it

I could not get to the pcv valve, but I suspect something there too. There oil deposits around that area. It was not clean.

They said these things will contribute to a poor fuel economy and the rough idle. That also explains the high engine temperatures and heating up so quick too.

I had a mechanic who lives near me look at the car. He then told me what was going on. He found oil inside the radiator. It was green because it ended up in there. It was sludge like. He then found oil inside the coolant tank. He said also gas was getting into the coolant too. He said you need to:

get a head gasket set, possibly a valve job, oil change, and oil filter change, coolant flushed and changed, and new spark plugs, and pcv valve.

He said you buy the parts it will not cost you much. The labor is where they might get you. He said do not drive this car anymore. He said you caught it early and you were smart. If you had kept using the car, it would have caused your engine to seize up and pistons to stop. Eventually you would have killed the engine. That oil was getting into everything he said. That is why you have the hard starting, the rough idle and the high fuel consumption.

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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I went outdoors this morning with the Oldsmobile Technicians book.

I checked all the areas they say for poor fuel economy. I checked the car according to the book.

I found:

The coolant tank looks nasty!! It was off color and look like it had green mold or something floating in it

I could not get to the pcv valve, but I suspect something there too. There oil deposits around that area. It was not clean.

They said these things will contribute to a poor fuel economy and the rough idle. That also explains the high engine temperatures and heating up so quick too.

I had a mechanic who lives near me look at the car. He then told me what was going on. He found oil inside the radiator. It was green because it ended up in there. It was sludge like. He then found oil inside the coolant tank. He said also gas was getting into the coolant too. He said you need to:

get a head gasket set, possibly a valve job, oil change, and oil filter change, coolant flushed and changed, and new spark plugs, and pcv valve.

He said you buy the parts it will not cost you much. The labor is where they might get you. He said do not drive this car anymore. He said you caught it early and you were smart. If you had kept using the car, it would have caused your engine to seize up and pistons to stop. Eventually you would have killed the engine. That oil was getting into everything he said. That is why you have the hard starting, the rough idle and the high fuel consumption.

I'm glad that they caught it early. You forgot to add the cat too.

Better a little work now or a new engine later...how many miles are on your car?

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I did more research last night. The mechanic was dead on.

Symptoms of a blown head gasket include:

- White smoke coming from the tailpipe, sometimes intermittently.( intermittently in my case)

- Coolant in the oil. When they mix, the oil gets a chocolate milkshake appearance.

- Oil in the coolant.

- Oil on the engine (plenty)

- Rough idle

- Poor fuel economy

- High coolant temperatures

I have all those symptoms….

But I have NOT had:

Overheating of engine

Lost of coolant

Or stalling

Because of that, I will need:

Coolant flush and new coolant

oil filter again ( recently did this)

oil change again ( recently did this too)

new spark plugs (platinum tip)

pcv valve:

A restricted pcv valve can cause excess pressure to find new avenues to vent, and an oil gasket or seal is usually “blown out “to let this pressure escape.

*** This is what happened..

A new oxygen sensor

If you had white smoke coming from the tailpipe and your head gasket was bad, chances are the O2 sensor may have been poisoned at the same time. Expect to have problems with it. It may need to be replaced.

Other Areas to Check:

The radiator needs to be checked.

Check water pump

Possible catalytic converter needed

Check the Thermostat

Poor gas mileage:

Symptoms:

Leaking fuel lines (already fixed last time)

Vacuum leaks from bad hoses, seals or gaskets (see above)

Leaking injector or seal

Cold start or valve leaking

Bad or damaged catalytic converter

A TUNE UP IS NEEDED

The mileage is 96,900 something miles.

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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Only around 100k miles...that sucks

Makes me wonder how the owner before took care of it....

Sounds like a lot of work. I hope everything works well for you, 98.

That is what I realized.. the previous owner did not take care of it. I do not think that they did their oil changes either. That is why that pcv valve clogged up.

It could also be a bad radiator or temp sensor:

Symptoms of a bad engine coolant temperature sensor are when your temperature gauge rises or drops erratically or when your radiator fan won't shut off.

During visual inspection, look for warning signs that should not be ignored as:

* Low coolant light

* Leaking hoses or pipes

* Smell of antifreeze in car

* Noisy coolant pump

* Corroded or leaking radiator

* Coolant in exhaust

* Antifreeze leaking into oil

Also, test your radiator cap to make sure it is working properly

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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I got a revelation this morning as I was waking up. I decided what to do about the whole engine issue. It became clear as day as I was walking this morning.

I realized I need to get a new engine. The person who had the Toronado before me did not take care of the engine. They have a poor record with vehicles. They knew they messed that engine up. That is why they got rid of the Toronado. The body and everything else is fine. I realized if I fixed that engine I will never get ahead. You have no idea what is wrong with that engine. I will keep fixing and repairing that engine over and over. There are so many things wrong with it. For what I would pay in repairs, I should get another engine and start fresh. I will come out cheaper. That car should have failed the emissions and state inspection.

I will get ahead with a new engine. I take good care of cars. Instead of paying for this, and paying for that, That car deserves a fresh start. Think of it as getting a transplant. I have a car. I am going to simplify what I need to do. I will have to ask my mechanic can I have the engine shipped to his shop.

I will get a new 3800 V6 engine

I will get a new set of Michelin tires

I will get a new exhaust system from front to back

I will paint the car the color of my choice.

There is a lesson in this I want to share with others. The lesson is in our minds we think that there is one way to do something. There is more than one way to do something. It is better you do this now and not later. A open mind and heart leads to understanding.

Edited by NINETY EIGHT REGENCY
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