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What's the trick to getting a key fob to work after a battery replacement?


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The battery in my first remote died about 2 years ago, so I started using the second one. Now that the second one has died, I went out and bought new Duracell 2-pack of batteries marked DL2032/CR2032. The dead ones were Panasonic CR2032. I've tried both batteries in both remotes, and none of those combinations work. Is there some kind of reprogramming I need to do??

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The battery in my first remote died about 2 years ago, so I started using the second one. Now that the second one has died, I went out and bought new Duracell 2-pack of batteries marked DL2032/CR2032. The dead ones were Panasonic CR2032. I've tried both batteries in both remotes, and none of those combinations work. Is there some kind of reprogramming I need to do??

I don't think so... usually the car learns the fob, if need be, not the other way around... but I've seen that some key fobs seem to get wonky as they get older. Also, some of the older electronics get corrosion on them, so clean up the contacts before putting it back together.

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This for the Cobalt? Always helps to know what vehicle we're talking about. As far as I know, GM remotes usually do not need any kind of programming after a battery change. Occasionally they need re-synced (not to be confused with reprogrammed). On the Saturn S-Series, this simply involves holding down a couple of the buttons for several seconds. If that doesn't work, the remote has to be reprogrammed, which for '00+ means going to a dealer or someone with a Tech2 tool. Older S-Series could be done with a paperclip.

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On a Ford product, it's so easy even our parts guys can do it for customers... reprogramming. If you don't want to stop at a Chevy dealer, maybe a phone call to a nice service advisor there will get you what you want. If you stop in, be sure to take both remotes.

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I've changed batteries many times on GM key fobs from 1988 - 2008 and never had I had to reprogram.

I know this sounds stupid (I did work at a PC helpdesk for 8 years) you have tried the battery in both + and - positions?

The metal contact that the battery sits on is making contact with the battery? The only thing that I could think of is the battery is not making the required contact with the connectors... of that they sold you dead batteries.

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Actually after testing all four batteries, they are all holding more than the marked 3V.

I think the battery holder on one was manufactured badly, it has completely come off the sauter now. The other one is fine. See this website for another guy who's had that same issue.

As far as positive/negative, it's clearly marked that positive goes up, and the batteries have their positive end marked.

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