Self Work - Basic Tools and Equipment

[Z-06]

As many of us work on their own vehicles and love fixing their cars, this is a general question to help some starters like me who would like to do the same.

What are the essential tools and equipment one should have to perform most of the work on his vehicle/s? And what are the recommendations for brands, quality, what-not, etc.

[SAmadei]

As many of us work on their own vehicles and love fixing their cars, this is a general question to help some starters like me who would like to do the same.

What are the essential tools and equipment one should have to perform most of the work on his vehicle/s? And what are the recommendations for brands, quality, what-not, etc.

This really depends on what you can afford.

According to Walter Kowalski in the movie Gran Torino, all you need is a pair of pliers, some duct tape and a can of WD-40. I'd say you want to get a few more tools to get started.

If you are really looking for tools on the cheap, its nice to have a Harbor Freight nearby. You can start off with a $35 130 piece kit... (Item #69331) and you likely will want to pick up a set of Metric wrenches (item #42305), so you can handle some larger, more stubborn bolts. Or you could just go for the $187 (Item 69312) 301 piece fit, which includes a lot more. As time goes on, you WILL break these tools. As you break them, replace them with better tools, such as Husky (Home Depot), Kobalt (Lowes) or Craftsman (Sears). These hand tools will have a lifetime replacement warranty. I've found that its nice to have two quality screwdrivers (flat and phillips), vise grip, a 3/8 drive ratchet, universal joint and 1/4 to 3/8 drive converter at a minimum. These parts will break or wear over time almost regardless of the quality of the tool.

If you have more money or would rather start with fewer, but better quality tools, I would shop for Husky (Home Depot), Kobalt (Lowes) or Craftsman (Sears) tool sets. Again, these will have a replacement warranty and will generally last longer. I personally like Craftsman, but I've found Husky or Kobalt are generally just as good.

Craftsman has suitable sets from the 101 pc mechanics set at $49.99 to the uber 540 pc mechanics tool set at $1234. Actually, I believe they have kits in the store up to $2500, with 2000 pieces, which include parts you never dreamed of.

Anyway, my portable kit, which I use for most repairs is about the equivalent of the $94 200 pc set with a few extra items tossed into a $10 Sears tool bag that I've had for about 10 years without it ripping. Perfect for emergency repairs, going to the pick-a-part or when you need to visit your friends' cars.

You can also keep an eye open for yard sales and classifieds, and sometimes you might luck into some tool sets that are Mac or Snap-on, which are generally high quality tools for professional use. I personally find Snap-On tools to be too thin, and I prefer the slightly thicker Craftsman tools for when I REALLY need to crank down on tight bolts.

As far what tools you specifically need, that is also pretty wide open... and every job needs different items... sometimes a ratchet and socket is perfect, sometimes you need a couple wrenches... sometimes, you just need a screwdriver. In general, the above tool sets will cover you as a beginner. If you are only working on newer cars, you likely only need metric tools. But if you are going to work on other tasks, like assembling things or doing light plumbing, having the SAE sizes is a real help. Lag bolts don't come in metric.

Socket kits are usually pretty complete. You will also may need a couple extensions, conversions and possibly a universal. Some basic kits will have only 4~5 wrenches, which are good for 90% of the jobs, but in time you will need to supplement them. You likely will never need a full set of wrenches from 6mm to 33mm, however. A lot of kits count every little piece, so they go wild including bits for the screwdriver/nutdriver and giving you a bunch of allen wrenches. These are not as important, but can be very important for working on the interior of your car. These screwdriver bits are not a replacement for a couple good screwdrivers, however. There will always be situations where a screwdriver bit set will not fit where a normal screwdriver will.

You will also want a vise grip, an adjustable wrench, some needle nose pliers and a standard pliers. These should ONLY be used as a last resort when you can't use a proper sized wrench or socket. You also will want a spark plug socket (similar to regular socket, but it has a rubber holder inside). I would also suggest a hammer... and a sharp chisel. You never know when you need to chisel off a rivet or split a rusted nut.

Then there are nice tools to have, such as a real set of Torx drivers. A set of short and long sockets. Ratcheting wrenches. Set of plastic trim tools. Nutdrivers. External Torx sockets. Unless you are doing a lot of work, light duty tools from Harbor Freight will do you fine.

Needless to say, I can go on and on. And we haven't even touched on power tools.

Finally, I'd just like to say, once again, that even small tool sets will be enough for a LOT of mechanic work. If you need a tool that you don't want to buy, Autozone and Advanced Auto both lend tools... you basically pay for them, and get your money back when you return them.

[FAPTurbo]

Access to torque wrenches is something I recommend. It's easy to shrug off torquing but it only takes a little extra time and can save headaches in the future. A 1/2" Harbour Freight torque wrench will be fine for lug nuts but you'll want to spend a little more dough on 3/8" and 1/4" ones. Craftsman clicker models seem pretty good.

Opinions on brands are all over the place. I've heard people complain about one brand while being happy with another, despite the fact that both brands source from the same manufacturer. For example:

Apex Tools - Bain Capital

- Craftsman

- Kobalt (Lowes)

- Husky (Home Depot)

- Mastercraft (Canadian Tire)

My neighbour busted a ratchet from the Canadian Tire brand 'Mastercraft.' He returned it, swore not to buy from them again and went and bought a nearly-identical Husky product from Home Depot. He swears by Husky now.

It's best to just shop for the best price and from a retailer with a good return policy. You'll get people claiming you need to buy 'MURRICAN' and from expensive brands like Snap-On, MAC and Matco, but unless you're actually a mechanic, it's not necessary. I started mechanics with a heavily discounted Stanley socket set, an extra ratchet and basic wrenches. Mind you, this is motorcycle mechanics but the principles remain the same.

Garagejournal is sometimes a good place to research but I don't care for the conversation. I think most of those guys spend more time polishing their tools than they do using them.

Edited January 26, 2014 by FAPTurbo

[balthazar]

My ramblings~

Like most industries, there has been a LOT of manufacturer shuffling thru the years; Craftsman may be currently built by Apex, but they've had numerous makers over the years. The quality range for non-moving part hand tools is much closer than that for ones that do move (like ratchets). Tool hounds are usually down on all 4 of the above brands. That said, the premium brands are overpriced, IMO, but they absolutely do have some specialty & unique pieces the mainstream brands do not. Only Snap-On stuff I own (maybe a dozen pieces), I didn't pay anything for.

I would recommend buying used stuff at swap meets or local auctions, too- you can get stellar deals, and the stuff is usually vintage, which is already proven & often lasts longer than new. When I needed a 1.5-in socket for my Ford's lug nuts, Craftsman wanted $30 for 1 socket. Swap meet: got a Williams (VG brand) for $4.

My MAC 3/8" ratchet set must date to the late '70s, I've used the crap out of it for a few decades (3 actually) and generally on rusted stuff- have not had to replace a single piece.

I've broken Husky socket stuff tho (3 pieces actually, tho I don't use them much), but they will replace them. They're maybe 10 yrs old at this point; they're OK for the price.

I would not buy one of the 'master' C-Man sets, IMO they stuff a lot of seldom-used bits in the large sets- who needs 4 or 5 sets of allen wrenches? C-Man is in transition- changing manufacturers around & shipping more & more offshore. Sometimes that's of no consequence, others times its the kiss of death.

In fact, I would say that I came into possession of more than half of my hand tools (I have a good quantity) for nothing (no; I didn't steal any of them). That's just good fortune / 'right place,right time' karma. As a matter of practice, I buy tools when I need them (at this point, I don't need much of anything).

SK is a very good quality brand, and the Co is bringing manufacturing back on-shore. Supposedly, it's a Corporate re-focus on product. If I were to buy a large socket set, I'd check them first.

I really like the ratchet box wrenches (ALA: Gearwrench), tho I have an early Crafstman set. C-M has a small thumb lever, allowing you to switch direction, but Gearwrench you have to turn the wrench, see which way it turns, then usually flip it over to go the way you want. I don't think the CM pieces are still made, unfortunately.

Edited January 26, 2014 by balthazar

[Drew Dowdell]

Metwrench for sockets. Metric and Imperial in a single socket. Makes for fewer sockets to keep. Good for just starting out.

[Intrepidation]

This set is a great starter kit.

Sells for around $150. I got it for $100 on a Black Friday a few years ago. This kit goes has a really nice selection of sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and half in both regular and deep size. Curiously, the one thing it really lacks are adapters, so the first thing I did was buy a set to keep with it. This has been an excellent set which I've used many, many times from cars to lawn mowers to priming our furnace. The 1/2" ratchet is a beast, very strong and can take a beating. I've used the 12-point socket to hammer on a locking lug nut to get it off without damaging the socket. Only tool to break so far was the 1/4" ratchet's release got stuck.

With that said, my tools are USA made, when I looked at the tool set at a store in December it was Chinese made. No idea what the quality difference may be, although it was very disappointing.

Still, a set like this is a really good place to get started and has much of the basic tools you need to get most jobs done.

Oh and a jack and jack stands of course.

With that said, a few other tools which are a good idea to invest in:

• Factory Service Manual
• PD Blaster/equivalent - WD-40 is not nearly as effective as a dedicated penetrating oil
• Antisieze
• Dielectric Grease
• Magnetic Pickup Tool
• Torque Wrench - You will find a lot of nuts and bolts have specific torque specs (even lug nuts, also never use an impact wrench on lug nuts!) and it is very important to torque them properly.
• A few ratchet extensions
• A ratchet universal joint
• Bit adapter for ratchet (allows you can get at really tight screws)
• Drill/Driver (Makes the job go so much faster)
• Socket adapters for said drill/driver
• Ratcheting Wrenches - These tools are so handy for getting into places a ratchet can't and would take a conventional wrench forever to loosen or tighten.
• Tap & Die set - Used one of these to save a stud I accidentally cross threaded. What a life saver.
• Sledge Hammer - For those really stuck parts.

Most of these tools a relatively inexpensive. You don't need Snap On priced tools to get the job done, just do some research and see what people say about different brands and particular tools.

My tool collection has slowly been growing, my next big purchase will be an impact wrench.

[Intrepidation]

I really like the ratchet box wrenches (ALA: Gearwrench), tho I have an early Crafstman set. C-M has a small thumb lever, allowing you to switch direction, but Gearwrench you have to turn the wrench, see which way it turns, then usually flip it over to go the way you want. I don't think the CM pieces are still made, unfortunately.

GearWrench actually makes reversible ones in addition to the standard ratcheting wrenches, as well as flex handle ratcheting wrenches.

Speaking of GW, they also make a really nifty Roto Ratchet. I have a 1/4" one and its super handy since you can get the nut/bolt at an angle, or switch from being at a ratchet angle to a screwdriver angle.

[balthazar]

I want to like the 'roto-ratchet' but when I've held them in hand, they're very bulky. Seems that those spots where micro-angle adjustment would be handy, they'd be too thick. You could do the same thing with an offset flex-head that would be 1/3rd the thickness.

Good to know RE the reversible GWers- having to flip a wrench over all the time (yea, I know; mathmatically it should only me 50%, but it's more like 80% ) is an annoyance.

Another good piece to have alongside a socket set is a breaker bar.

[Drew Dowdell]

Maybe we should keep our audience in mind, he's not working on a 40 year old rusty Buick, he's working on a low mileage, recent Corvette.

[balthazar]

Modern cars are extremely tight, hence the suggestion for a thinner ratchet.
Breaker bar is still a simple, good thing to have. Couldn't get the rear calipers off my '04 SIlverado without one; GM used Locktite on the threads.

[Z-06]

Good posts so far.

Are Porter-Cable tools made in USA?

[FAPTurbo]

Another good piece to have alongside a socket set is a breaker bar.

+1. They're worth the minimal cash many times over. I've seen enough people try to put a pipe over a ratchet handle and have things go wrong.

Are Porter-Cable tools made in USA?

According to Wikipedia, no. Mostly Mexico and China.

Edited January 26, 2014 by FAPTurbo

[Intrepidation]

I forgot the breaker bar, Oops!

Maybe we should keep our audience in mind, he's not working on a 40 year old rusty Buick, he's working on a low mileage, recent Corvette.

You'll want a breaker bar even with a newer car if you ever find yourself having to take the lug nuts off, or wanting to remove an axle nut. Well worth having.

[SAmadei]

Modern cars are extremely tight, hence the suggestion for a thinner ratchet.

Breaker bar is still a simple, good thing to have. Couldn't get the rear calipers off my '04 SIlverado without one; GM used Locktite on the threads.

Agreed. This is where I'm fortunate that I can put my size to good use. ;-) Of course, if your breaker bar is too cumbersome, two wrenches linked together can make a nice, slim breaker bar.

To tweak DF's post... I would remove the sledgehammer and suggest a mini-sledge. Most people can't accurately swing a real sledgehammer. A mini-sledge can be swung in a wheel well to coax a wrench or breaker bar.

Only time I've ever used a sledge (constructively) on a car was to remove wheels that had fused to the drums.

[SAmadei]

I'd love to have 100% made-in-USA tools... but I question if people fixing a BMW or Subaru really care about that much.

[SAmadei]

Metwrench for sockets. Metric and Imperial in a single socket. Makes for fewer sockets to keep. Good for just starting out.

I am a little leery of recommending these because I've had a couple of these fall into my possession and they liked to take corners off fasteners if you put the torque to it. Same reason I try to only use 6 sized sockets and wrenches when working on a stubborn bolt.

There is a place for these, no doubt, but I would be afraid a newcomer would not recognize it.

[Intrepidation]

Modern cars are extremely tight, hence the suggestion for a thinner ratchet.

Breaker bar is still a simple, good thing to have. Couldn't get the rear calipers off my '04 SIlverado without one; GM used Locktite on the threads.

Agreed. This is where I'm fortunate that I can put my size to good use. ;-) Of course, if your breaker bar is too cumbersome, two wrenches linked together can make a nice, slim breaker bar.

To tweak DF's post... I would remove the sledgehammer and suggest a mini-sledge. Most people can't accurately swing a real sledgehammer. A mini-sledge can be swung in a wheel well to coax a wrench or breaker bar.

Only time I've ever used a sledge (constructively) on a car was to remove wheels that had fused to the drums.

Yeah, mini sledge would be more appropriate, although I did once have to resort to borrowing a sledgehammer to get one of the Prizm's rotors off.

[balthazar]

Dodgefan ~ >>"I forgot the breaker bar, Oops!"<<

No way to list even a 'basic' set of all inclusive tools. I am a strong proponent of 'the right tool for the job' philosophy, so as the job changes, the tool needs to also.

Agreed on the sledge / hand sledge; only time I ever used either was the same scenario; fused rim.
A good, weighty hammer does most of the duty here; once you get to the 'sledge zone' you should be using air at that point, and/or heat (be careful on the plastic fantastic of modern vehicles!)

I have a bunch of breaker bars, but I also have a section of pipe, about 15", that's served me well in some instances. I'd rather hammer on a pipe than a breaker bar, for example.

BTW, Drew- my Buick is rust-free! Wasn't when I got it but it is now.

Edited January 28, 2014 by balthazar

[SAmadei]

Dodgefan ~ >>"I forgot the breaker bar, Oops!"<<

No way to list even a 'basic' set of all inclusive tools. I am a strong proponent of 'the right tool for the job' philosophy, so as the job changes, the tool needs do to.

Agreed on the sledge / hand sledge; only time I ever used either was the same scenario; fused rim.

A good, weighty hammer does most of the duty here; once you get to the 'sledge zone' you should be using air at that point, and/or heat (be careful on the plastic fantastic of modern vehicles!)

I have a bunch of breaker bars, but I also have a section of pipe, about 15", that's served me well in some instances. I'd rather hammer on a pipe than a breaker bar, for example.

Sometimes I just use my fist as the BFH. ;-) It doesn't mar the tools.

Nothing wrong with pipe as a breaker bar... but most people don't have the proper pipe. Worth a trip to Fazzio's.

Trust me, Balthy... when I'm in the Sledge-zone, the 400ft-lb air impact, PB Blaster/WD-40 and heat have been exhausted. Usually entering the Sledge-zone, I'm prepared to see broken bolts to get the job done. Needless to say, we'd be well out of newbie-zone by then. ;-)

[Drew Dowdell]

Metwrenches aren't really for super seized stuff anyway, but again, he's working on a low mileage Vette or Acura.

[SAmadei]

Metwrenches aren't really for super seized stuff anyway, but again, he's working on a low mileage Vette or Acura.

Problem is for a lot of folks, especially newcomers to the hobby, the wrong wrench in hand is worth two proper wrenches in the toolbox; they'll use the wrong tool for the job just because its in hand and they don't want to climb out from under the car.

I'm just the opposite anymore... I don't want to drag myself under the car until I have every tool I can imagine needing. ;-)

[Drew Dowdell]

My crawler has deep pockets for that reason.

[Z-06]

You mean redneck-rigging is not good for a car?

[David]

One who loves to support America, I do tend to spend a bit more for my tools. Example is Craftmen Professional with the lifetime warranty are Made in the USA but the rest of their product line is China made and comes only with 1yr warranty or no warranty. I know people love the tools that Home Depot and Lowes sell, but they are all Made in Chine. I would rather search out and find a USA supplier.

One Important lesson that my dad taught me growing up. Your Tools / Kit will always grow as you should always buy the right tool for the job.

Yes it would be great to spend thousands of dollars for Professional grade, USA built, Lifetime warranty tools such as;

S&K Pro Tools

Or Craftsman Pro Tools

I have only known a few people who went to trade school and are mechanics as a career who did this. It is the cheapest way if you can swing the purchase as the 540 tool kit ends up costing $2.28 per tool.

Yet like some have mentioned here, you can start off with a basic Standard and Metric set and as you need a specific tool, buy a quality one that will get the job done and last. Do not pass on saturday markets. I have found many worthy used tools that were lifetime warranty such as craftsman and was able to buy it cheap, use it and eventually I did go and get it replaced with a new lifetime warranty part.

One Last Comment, Many people throw their tools around and just get the job done and put it away as is. If you take the time to always wipe off and clean up the tools, place them back in their proper spot in your tool box or chest, you will always know where they are and that they are clean and ready to be used. No one really likes to grab greasy dirty tools.

[balthazar]

The main line HD / Lowes tool lines are either made in China / Taiwan, but some select items are USA made, such as Channellock, and Dasco, and these 2 are quality. You have to look around.

[Intrepidation]

One who loves to support America, I do tend to spend a bit more for my tools. Example is Craftmen Professional with the lifetime warranty are Made in the USA but the rest of their product line is China made and comes only with 1yr warranty or no warranty. I know people love the tools that Home Depot and Lowes sell, but they are all Made in Chine. I would rather search out and find a USA supplier.

One Important lesson that my dad taught me growing up. Your Tools / Kit will always grow as you should always buy the right tool for the job.

Yes it would be great to spend thousands of dollars for Professional grade, USA built, Lifetime warranty tools such as;

S&K Pro Tools

SK-Tools.jpg

Or Craftsman Pro Tools

CraftsmenTools.jpg

I have only known a few people who went to trade school and are mechanics as a career who did this. It is the cheapest way if you can swing the purchase as the 540 tool kit ends up costing $2.28 per tool.

Yet like some have mentioned here, you can start off with a basic Standard and Metric set and as you need a specific tool, buy a quality one that will get the job done and last. Do not pass on saturday markets. I have found many worthy used tools that were lifetime warranty such as craftsman and was able to buy it cheap, use it and eventually I did go and get it replaced with a new lifetime warranty part.

One Last Comment, Many people throw their tools around and just get the job done and put it away as is. If you take the time to always wipe off and clean up the tools, place them back in their proper spot in your tool box or chest, you will always know where they are and that they are clean and ready to be used. No one really likes to grab greasy dirty tools.

Even the "Craftsman Professional" tools are being made in China. Some are still Made in USA, but not all.

I can't stand dirty/rusty/messy tools. They always go back in their designated spots and periodically get cleaned.

[SAmadei]

Because I haul my tools with me, they get exposed to the elements more than most do... and quality soon becomes apparent... junky tools get rusty and dull... good stuff stays nice.

But there are a few tools I have had for a long time that I refuse to change out... like the "Ghost wrench". At some point, I lost my 15mm wrench. As it turned out, it fell down into the Bonne's inner spaces and stuck there for about 2 years before I found it... rusty and nasty. It was a decent fitting wrench that didn't bend under a lot of stress, so I stripped it and painted it. Problem is I only had white paint around... But the wrench was so easy to spot afterwards. Impossible to stay clean, its more of a "grey ghost wrench" now. I also have "Bendie"... a 3/4 wrench that lost its temper... so its super easy to bend... but it is stiff enough for most jobs... so its great to work on suspension where I need a odd shaped wrench. It also impresses bystanders to see me bend the wrench in front of their eyes.