76ChevyTrucker

It woud be far easier to do the compression test while at least the starter is attached that way you can crank the engine over at a higher speed. The biggest thing is that you're going to have to have the engine on a stand and have a remove stater button to trigger the starter. You can do a compression test with the engine out of the car, in fact its easier then because you don't have to worry about disabling the fuel system or anything like that. Another thing to remember is that all the cylinders need to be close together in compression values. If you have any cylinders not performing up to snuff, then you'll probably have to tear into it.

That or its the power steering pressure switch in the power steering line, either way you slice it, its coverable under warranty and not too hard to replace.

I've got family that live about 45 minutes north of Savannah. I've been there lots of times when I'm up an visiting them in SC, I love it there. Really beautiful city, lots of very historic buildings and just an all around nice atmosphere.

One cable is going to be the actual throttle cable, the other will go to your cruise control unit. A service manual will be your best friend on this one. Unfortunately I haven't run into any issues involving the throttle cable on one of those trucks whenever I work on one. Most that I've had to do is tune ups and oil changes on them.

kinda like what everyone above has said. Really the only true way to fix a worn out engine is to do one of two things, rebuild, or replace. Sure, that'll slow it down, but by the time and money you've spent in slowing a leak down, you could have already started to either save up for a completely new engine (or at least new to you), or started buying parts to rebuild it. Sorry, from a parts guy's perspective, it isn't a "magic cure", the only real way to fix one is to well, FIX IT. Again, like said above you can use it, but its like using a thicker oil, and if you're using 20W50 anyway, then it'll just make it a little thicker, which will help seal up minor imperfections between the piston rings and cylinder walls, but at the same time, you're still looking at the extra expense of buying a can of it every time you change the oil, plus any times in between when you're say running a quart or two low.

Yep. On GM vehicles 95 and older, they're all OBD-I, which means you can read the codes without a scan tool. Although I would recommend going to a shop and letting them run their scan tool on the car so that they can see the actual duty cycles for particular parts in question. But as far as checking the codes yourself, you'll see a port under the driver's side dash (typical location, actual location may vary). Once you're there, use a paper clip to jump the two terminals up the upper right hand side. From there turn the key to the "on" position, the check engine light will then begin to blink the codes at you. Each code will flash three times, with the first and last set of codes being a code "12". Everything in the middle are your problems. Example: - -- is a code 12, or --- -- would be a code 32 and so on and so forth. Hope that this helps you out.

Very doubtful they'll crack it open. More likely than not, they'll swap the transmission, give you a bill, and call it a day.

I've got a loan for my Impala, the wife has her Cobalt leased. For her, the lease is a better idea, since she likes to have a newer vehicle very three, four years. Meanwhile I'm the kind of person that likes to keep a vehicle for a long period. So I get what I want, if I have to take out a loan for it, I do my absolute humanly best to take out as little as possible for as short a period of time as possible, and I get it. Otherwise, I won't worry about it. With school debts and getting the house remodeled, I probably won't be getting another vehicle for a little while, but once the finances have recovered, I'll get the next vehicle I decide on.

I can't really add anything more to this one, everyone's pretty much hit the nail on the head. The chain won't really be affected by a misfire as compared to something like a knock or a ping, so you weren't hurting anything except for your fuel mileage.

Well, one of the biggest things is that whomever had the vehicle before you got ahold of it towed without it in "tow/haul" mode. When the transmission is placed into that mode, it keeps the torque converter from locking up, thereby allowing the transmission to withstand the extra rigors of towing. If its not put into "tow/haul", the converter will lock up like normal and you'll burn the tranmission to the ground that away. The smell you've probably got is somewhat burnt fluid. Normally transmission fluid smells anyway, but as its burnt up, the smell gets worse. Only real thing you can do is pull the trans and have it rebuilt. You could try various "stop slip" additives, but you're really only delaying the inevitable.

If you like changing front brakes often, go for the Mailbu. I hate to say it of all the N-body cars (Malibu, Cutlass, Alero, and Grand Am), the Malibu will eat the front brakes off it in no time. Go with either an Impala, Century, Regal, Grand Prix, or Intrigue. They are all well balanced cars and don't have near the troubles of some of the other cars. The Cavalier is also a good choice, but if you are already looking at at least an N-body (judging from your first post), then the Cav may be a little small for you to begin with. So far, everyone's made good suggestions, I'd just shy away from the Malibus, unless you're talking about the new-er body Malibu (I think the first year of the redesign was '03, maybe '04), then you'll be good to go.

I'm with Booyah on this one. I'd have to buy an Ironhide edition Topkick

in one word. NO. Sorry y'all, but I'm not going to ever do something like that. What if you've got company over and you can't pay constant attention to your kid and he/she makes that "signal" and you miss it. Next thing you know, you've got a rather wonderful mess all over the floor to clean up, now don't you?

NCC-1701

My thoughts and prayers are for a speedy recovery for Nick and his buddy in the car. Sounds like they both got beaten up pretty badly.

Please, please, no more...I'll, I'll tell you where the money is, just DON'T SHOW ME THAT AGAIN!!!!!!!

I'm a short hop from Montgomery (short hop being about 30 minutes south), but I can make it up there pretty much anytime. If you can give me an ETA on when you'll be rolling through I'll see if I can't pick out a prominent landmark we could meet at.

Ditto to what both of the guys above said. Right before I met my wife, I was looking at more or less the same things you are looking at now. I was bored with my college friends, bored with always going and hanging out at some party, or a club, or a bar, or a whatever. More or less things were kinda well, BORING! I wanted someone to connect with on a deeper level, someone that I could see as at least a long-lasting friend, if not something more. Well, it happened, and now I feel that completeness. Its just one of the changes of life that we all go through as time moves on when we stop wanting to be the social animal that we once were, and we want to really "belong" somewhere. And no, you post definitely didn't come off as a whole "woe is me" post.

Glad that I could help. Just remember I'm your friendly parts guy/technician (since well my "normal" job is a parts guy, and I service vehicles on the side).

Well, any additive to the fuel can be harmful as much as helpful. Just like if you've got water in the fuel, you can add rubbing alcohol to the gas, but then you run the risk of fouling the O2 sensors. And no, no vehicle is programmed to run richer if the ECM realizes its getting better than "normal" fuel mileage. The only way it'll run richer will be by noticing that he engine is for some reason running lean, by which the engine is starving for fuel anyway. Seafoam, Lucas, Gumout, even STP can all be effective, although none of it matters once that spark plug fires, they'll all burn, just like the gasoline coming out of that fuel injector.

Root Beer Float

Hell, I've had a starter off an '83 Olds 307 thrown at me because the customer failed to tell me that his car had the engine swapped to a Chevy 350, and of course its my fault because I'm not a mind reader......

Like Z said, figure out what she'll be towing. The 4.2L Atlas is a great engine, they're reliable, run well, and the only problem I know with them is that the electronic fan clutch does have a tendency to fail, but if the vehicle has an electric cooling fan, problem solved. I really like the GMT360s, not sure what it is about them, but I do like them. I've test driven both the TrailBlazer and the Envoy, loved them both, just couldn't find one in my price range. After I'm done with the loan on the Impala, I'm actually looking at getting one, simply becuase the wife is going to be getting a car, or a crossover (probably an Acadia), and I'm still looking for a truck after having a car for so long....

I'm always a fan of Japanese food, along with a good bit of Thai, haven't every had Indian, but I've heard is great. I'm also a big fan of traditional Italian and Mexican.

Speaking as someone in customer service (working in the auto parts sales industry), customer service is what makes and breaks things with us. When a commercial account has a complaint we respond to, just as when a DIY customer comes in. We'll do our best to at least speak to them, and try to acknowledge that we'll be right with them if we're tied up and they have to wait. But, I've too been in the dealership parts or service department and gotten some pretty crappy, no downright $h!ty service myself. Again, I know that the dealership's main concern is making money, but that is still no way to treat customers whom have come in to pay their good hard money for parts, or services needed. I'm sorry to hear about the experience you've had, but it isn't the first one I've heard of, and I'm sure it won't be the last.