76ChevyTrucker

Yeah, the idler pulley wouldn't be hard at all to replace, just hit the belt tensioner to release the belt, then unbolt the pulley and slap it back in there, ten minute job, tops. Only part that might have been screwy is that the idler pulley bolt was probably left-handed thread.

First things first, the computer wouldn't show compression, only a compression gauge screwed into the spark plug hole with the engine cranking over would show if you have compression or not. And also the computer wouldn't display any codes related to the valves since they are a purely mechanical part of the engine. Someone is yanking their chain, sorry to say it. As far as everying else is concerned, it could be no spark on cylinder one, if so, then you've either got a bad plug, plug wire, or coil. Easy test for that, either do like said above, remove the suspect plug, in this case #1 would be the first one on the front bank of the engine (first being first nearest to the belt), and see if the engine seems to change its idle and lower rpm qualities. If it does, then you can more easily narrow things down by checking to see if the spark plug is fouled out. That's an easy test, just pull the plug and look at it. If its all gummed up looking or the tip is badly worn, then its time to replace the plugs (don't ever just replace one, do them all you'll be thankful in the end). If is a bad coil, since it has three coil packs you just swap the coils around and see if the skip moves. If it does, then you now know that you've got a bad coil. As far as plug wires, you can check them by removing a wire from a spark plug, inserting a screwdriver into the end of the wire, then hold it down near a metal object (to act as a grounding point) and have someone crank the engine over. Your spark color should be bluish-white, if its any other color, then suspect a bad coil of plug wires. You can also resistance test the spark plug wires with an ohm meter. If I remember right, any plug wire that shows more than 50,000 ohms of resistance is bad and should be replaced. Plug wires are like spark plugs, just buy a set and do them all you'll be happier in the long run.

Upper Intake Manifold Gasket aka Plenum Gasket at Car Quest (since I work there and I might as well use my abilities to get you the parts, or at least the prices from there should be about $40 bucks. Time to replace, about 3-4 hours depending on your mechanical abilities. As far as the squeal, here's a really simple way to check what it may be. Get a long screwdriver, or some other type device to use as a stethescope (sp?), from there crank the vehicle and slowly and methodically place said long screwdriver, or other device on every reachable thing that the belt runs along, if you can hear the screech through that particular part, then there is your bad cookie. And what I mean by placing it on the part, if its the alternator, of course you can't put it on the pulley while its spinning, but you can put the screwdriver on the alternator itself near the front and rear pulleys and listen through that device for the squealing or screeching sound. That's how I found the tensioner pulley bearing failing on my Impala before it completely gave up the ghost and put me on the side of the road. By the way, when it comes to questions like this, never fear, you can always pm me, I'm pretty much one of the regulars when it comes to the tech-side of cars and such, since I'm not only a parts guy, I'm also a mechanic too.

I liked that commercial, wonder why I haven't seen it before.

Camino, you know that if I were closer I'd probably come live in your barn for short periods of time and work on this thing for ya. I really can't wait till I'm done remodeling our house so that I can start on the shop I want to build out on our property.

Supposed to be near 80 tomorrow for us here in Alabama. whooopeee.

I wish we could have some winter weather here...

Kinda like what Camino said, I wasn't the little guy, I was the fat kid....Yeah, lets see you joke on the fat kid and piss him off. I had one of the guys do that once and then he challenged me to a monkey fight (you know, hang onto my monkey bars, fight with your legs). No problem, I wrapped him up with my legs and locked them, broke three of his ribs and made him a little unconscious....needless to say, I wasn't picked on as the fat kid again. Now I just inform them that I own firearms and I know how to use them.

Vipes, I don't think we've always agreed, but happy birthday sir.

Crustaceans (sp?)

Yeah, the X-31, like you said loki, test bed for thrust vectoring technology. Could perform slow flight at speeds as little as 30-mph, if I remember correctly. The X-29 is also a great bird, based on a single-engine T-38 Talon trainer, extremely high roll rate, also had pretty good slow flight capabilty. Biggest problem with the X-29 is that NASA later found lots of structural cracks along the wing mounting points. The X-31 has pretty much been mothballed since less extreme forms of thrust vectoring are now being employed on today's fighter aircraft.

True, but I've got the wonderful "granny low" gear.

Or just stay home and beat the living $h! out of whomever does it next time.

With 108,000-ish miles on it, its tune-up time. The shaking comes from at least one cylinder (probably one or some other odd number of cylinders misfiring), which means that the engine runs unevenly, causing the shake. If your friend has had no other real problems with the car, then its probably tune up time and don't think anything of it. Repair bill shouldnt' be more than a couple hundred, dependant on the standard labor rate for whatever shop its taken to. I know here in Alabama, the "normal" labor rate is right about $65.00 per hour with a minimum charge of one hour.

Camino, we can always use my truck to push other vehicles, especially those from Toyota off cliffs....It won't even breathe hard for the task.

Thanks guys, I don't think I've laughed quite as hard in a long time at something like that, by all means, keep them coming.

You could always do what I did one day....hit the f@#ker in the throat and as he crumples to the ground gasping for air, kick him in the nads and tell him to leave you the f@#k alone or more will come his way.

AFM isn't really a program per se, its partly mechanical and partly electronic. The electronic part monitors the engine load at kills electrical power to the coils and fuel injectors for a particular cylinder group. You'll also normally have a mechanical side to it that will allow the engine to "float" the valves on those particular cylinders so that they will put a minimum amount of strain on the cylinders that are working.

Yeah, that looks about like what he wants to do.

Well any system you have is going to involve cutting and splicing into the original wiring harness, so as long as you can do that, and do it well then you shouldn't have any problems. As far as brands, it would probably be best to check your local car audio/security shop and see what brands they recommend, as I'm not that good of a choice for asking about brands.

Sounds to be like a possible problem with the Neutral Safety Switch. Just like its supposed to not allow the car to crank in any gear other than neutral or park, it can also act as a start disable switch to keep you from engaging the starter with the engine running. Although it could also be a problem with the starter itself and mileage and age unfortunately don't play a factor in when they fail. The original starter on my truck went from 1976 when the truck was purchased to Christmas 1995....and about 150,000mi...so age and miles don't play that big of a factor.

To answer the question, if you're already running 20W50 and you add something to it to make the oil thicker would it cause a more serious leak, its possible, but the oil pump only really circulates the oil, its the rod bearings and main bearings along the crankshaft that really MAKE you're oil pressure, so if they're in tip-top shape and you're running something really thick in there, then yes, just like water, its going to take the path of least resistance, if that happens to be a seal that's on its last leg, or a gasket that's a little nicked or cracked, then be prepared for the oil to leave through those places. Like said, just fix the problem, forget slowing it down.

Most of the time, you'll replace brake pads every 50-100 miles, shocks/struts in the same time frame. Again, that's average life for them sometimes you'll get more, sometimes you'll get less. The downside with vehicles with strut suspensions, you can't really easily tell when they're wearing out as easily unless the vehicle just completely wallows down the road. I know I'm going to do all four struts in the Impala probably this summer, and the car currently has 145,000mi on the odometer. I've done the front pads twice, rear pads once. None of the times did the brake really NEED to be replaced, but I'd rather do things well BEFORE they need to be done. Kinda like GM saying that you don't need to change the oil until the "change oil light" comes on. I NEVER wait for that, I always do mine every 3,000-4,500miles without question.

I'd have to agree with Tim on this one. The fuel economy difference between 4.10 and 3.73 rear gear ratios is almost moot when you're going to be any form of mud tires on the vehicle simply due to their weight. Although you can more easily move larger tires with the larger rear end, you'll of course lose some fuel economy with the swap. And since I'm coming in on this one a little in the dark, I'd have to say that you're going to end up with a nice truck, however; I'm not so sure I'd want to put mud tires on that heavy of a truck (had a friend who sunk his '97 Dodge 3500 4WD cummins up the frame rails one night, it wasn't pretty getting him unstuck).

Another thing to keep in mind ANY time you do a larger tire/wheel swap, upgrade the brakes, suspension and steering components to the heaviest duty thing you can buy, or else you'll spend a LOT of time under there replacing that stuff regularly.