76ChevyTrucker

More or less yes, its normally just one big module. I'd say its either that, or you've got a wire nicked and its shorting out to ground and connecting the power, keeping the lights on.

9 outta 15

Cookie (my favorite Sesame Street character BTW)

I learned how to fly in one of those things!!! I LOVED the Cherokee 140 and 160. Its a very steady aircraft, the ground steering is wonderful as compared to Cessnas, the only pet peeve is that when you're doing some ground reference stuff sometimes the wing can block your view directly below the aircraft (although that's the same peeve with any low wing aircraft)

thanks all. I've been very busy recently. Been putting in about 60-ish hours a week at work, and still haven't gotten caught up yet, but we'll get there.

I normally tell base oil change intervals on the mileage of the vehicle and the type of driving. We've got a couple of mail carriers that get their Jeeps serviced with us and they're in every 3k, no questions asked. Meanwhile I've got some people who drive Dodge 2500 and 3500 trucks with Cummins diesels and I normally tell them that I'll see them every 5k to 7.5k for an oil change. Most normal cars I'll see every 3-4.5k for "good" service interval. Truthfully if you change the oil and filter every 3000 miles, then you're only doing good, and keeping the engine as clean as possible. Now with today's oil technology going to 5000 between changes is very feasible, but if you can do it, every 3 is still a good idea.

Glad to see you got her running, but I'm like everyone else, why didn't it throw a code. Those things are designed by default to start throwing codes when things like that get out of spec. But I will say that it IS a 2.7 and leave it at that.

AutoZone will scan it for free, yes, the stipulations are that they have someone to scan the vehicle, AND they know what they're doing. Considering that the car is a '92 GM product, your scantool is a paperclip (no I'm not joking). The diagnostic procedure is as follows: bend paperclip in a "u" shape, look for a connector just under the lip of the dash, normally near the steering column, insert "u" shaped paperclip into the two terminals at the top and closest to the passenger side of the vehicle. Turn ignition key to the "on" position, watch the Check Engine Light, it will begin to flash at you. The first and last codes you will see are code 12's (one flash, pause, two flashes), those are to tell you that you are in diagnostic mode and that the readout is finished. Each code will repeat itself three times, each code will also show in numerically higher number. So once' you're past the code 12's, everything in the middle are trouble codes. From there you get a service manual, which will have the specific trouble codes for your vehicle in it, find your code definitions, and look for the problem yourself. All you're out is the cost of the service manual and a paperclip...

Guys, its been too long since I've really been able to get on here, but now I've got the chance to get on at least once a day and keep up. With the new job (service advisor at the local DCX dealership), and an almost 2 year old in the house things have been pretty hectic around my homestead. I'll do my best to continue my steadfast posts in the technical section and try for everywhere else too! That and well, I'll see what I can do as far as information on DCX stuff, since I work at one now...

Sounds like the window motor has a dead spot in it and when you slam the door, you're knocking it out of that dead spot and allowing the motor to work. As far as the wheel noise, sounds like it might be a wheel bearing, easy way to check, jack up each individual wheel, and check for play at the wheel, if you've got play, then there's your culprit. The A/C smell is probably either a cat clogging up and melting itself, OR you've got a crapped out cabin air filter. If you remove the cowl on the passenger's side more or less under the windshield wiper and the cabin air filter will be right inside. If its black, and cruddy looking, then THERE is your culprit.

Actually, GM and Chrysler both use Mobil 1 in there high performance stuff, we've got a Challenger sitting in our showroom at my job and the 6.1 Hemi in it uses Mobil 1 from the factory, just like Vettes. I would hands down say that for an everyday driver, Mobil 1 can't be beat. Now if you're running a high performance toy, run Royal Purple, otherwise, Mobil 1 will fix your fancies.

Normally I would say that its a problem with the transmission not being able to pass enough fluid through the filter to allow smooth operation. I'd service the transmission and then see what she acts like afterwards. Normally I service the transmission on my Impala around every 50,000 miles no matter what kind of driving I'm doing, that way it stays taken care of.

I'm agreeing with everyone else on this one, it wouldn't float the valves, it might add a few bubbles to the oil, but that's about it.

MOST definitely. If the PCM can't read oil pressure due to the switch leaking, then it'll cut power to the fuel pump thinking that the engine has stopped (wreck, roll over, whatever) so that there isn't a steady steam of fuel to come out of the electric pump and reduce a fire hazard.

'01 Impala LS 9C1 averages about 27 combined city and highway. Strickly highway, she'll easily see 32-35mpg, and in the city I normally se 22-26.

3.8L engines have the oil pump driven directly off the end of the crankshaft at the timing cover, the oil pump is actually mounted in the timing cover, so you can't techinally "replace" it, you can however rebuild it. It sounds to me like the engine is starving for oil on the top end (hence the ticking/clacking sound) and now you've possible locked the engine up, since the bottom end (rod bearings, main bearings) are lubricated from the crankshaft actually splashing down into the oil in the oil pan.

I'd either check the oil pressure/level, since power to the fuel pump runs through the oil pressure switch. I'd also replace the fuel filter, should be located on the driver's side, under the rear door (IIRC). Other than that, you could test the cam or crank position sensors with a simple volt meter. You'll have three wires running to either sensor, one will be a ground, one will be a 5-volt reference signal, and the last one will be a signal wire. The sensor works like a pick-up coil in a distributor, being that it is a hall effect switch, there'll be a ring mounted normally to the back of the harmonic balancer (for the crank position sensor) or on the timing gear (for the cam position sensor) that will block the magnetic signal that the sensor puts off. From there the PCM can reference engine rpm and determine spark advance, fuel injeciton pulse, etc, etc. So really all you'd have to do is find out which wire is which, backprobe the signal wire and turn the engine over ever so slowly. If you had one, you could even use an oscilliscope (sp?) to watch for the square wave pattern that the sensor produces.

Thanks Buddy, I didn't post the link to the Yahoo article I saw that morning as I was running late to work, but thanks for at least linking it to some news agency. Yeah, I'm kinda sure that this isn't the only one to have turned 1,000,000 miles, but this is the first ADVERTISED one.

Hey guys I was checking my email this morning before heading up to work and I ran across this article on Yahoo about a guy in Wisconsin with a 1991 Chevy pick up that, as of Friday rolled over 1,000,000 miles. All I have to say about it is.....Chevy, the most dependable, longest lasting trucks on the road... Like A Rock!

Remember to always use my trusted fix-it method. Beat it with a hammer and call it dirty names!

birthday

I can't exactly knock my '01 Impala 9C1, the 3.8 isn't a slouch and the mileage has never dropped below 27 on the highway. I know you're looking for a coupe and you have a certain dis like of the W's, but you can't knock their reliability and mileage standards.

I wouldn't mind seeing Osama in a plane whilst something along the lines of one of MY United States Air Force F-15 Eagles shoves an AIM-9 Sidewinder up his tail....

Either cooked some form of fusible link (which includes fuses) or say bye bye to the ECM

brain surgeon