Cmicasa the Great

Finally a Non-Warrantied Issue with my '14 Impala" Rear Wheel Bearings Shot

12 posts in this topic

Almost Thought She was PERFECT

 

Anyway.. For the last coupla days I'd been hearing what I was thinking was a "roaring" issue or even a drone of sorts coming from the driver side rear area. So. yesterday did a careful inspection of the tires.. wheel.. brakes.. and then decided to make a few calls. Talk to my Corvette guy at the dealership.. then to a guy I kno who works at Merchants Auto.. then of course my dad.. and all unanimously said "WHEEL BEARINGS." OK.. I am at 57K on the ODO (purchased in July 2013, traded in Taja my '11 Camaro RS 3.6L).. and drive her like she's the Vette all day.. every day that I drive her. 

 

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1) Checked to see if under Drive-train (5/100K) Warranty.. NOPE.. Years it would have made bumper to bump (3/36K).. but I am 20K over that.. not to mention:

 

from the Warranty: Exclusions: Excluded from the

powertrain coverage are all wheel

bearings, drive wheel front and rear

hub bearings, etc

 

So the next step was to find out the cost to replace.. part and labor.

 

1) Dealership quoted me $485 per side (included Part) X 2= $970

 

2) Merchants and the like all quoted $220 for part X 2 (if both sides were being done)= $440 + $400 in labor= Total of $840 

 

3) Went "EFF!!! THAT BULL $#!+!!"

 

4) Called Advance Auto and check to see how much part was.. MOOG Part #513288 for Rear were $151.99 ea side.. and I needed two cause I be damned if I was gonna do one side today.. then turn around have to come back a month later and do the other.. So.. Price was $304 and I got 20% off of that because I ordered ONLINE. Total then was then knocked down to $242. Labor would be ME.. Free of charge

 

The Job

++++++++++

 

Tools Needed:

 

1/2 and 3/4 Rachet . 

18MM Socket; 13/16 Socket, another 13/16 Socket or Wrench. U will also need a hammer.. preferably a small arm  Sledge

 

1) Jack car up on each side and remove wheels

 

2) Place Jack Stands under rear of car. Use jack stands for both safety and the fact that U will need to have Jack handy to lift control arm up to release tension on bolt connection. That Bolt will have to come out as it prevents U from being able to get to the Hub Assembly Bolts (3).

 

3) Remove Brake Caliper and Rotor Assembly with 18MM Socket. Prop up on something so weight will not be on hoses.

 

4) Remove Rotors

 

5) Next.. Locate the 3 Bolts that hold Hub Assembly on. U will notice that the top Bolt is somewhat obstructed by Control arm. Place Jack under rear shock and raise to relieve tension on control arm bolt.. then remove that Bolt with 13/16 Socket

 

6) Once obstruction is clear.. Remove the 3 Hub bolts

 

7) Once Bolts are out.. Hub will still most likely be "Frozen" in place due to rust. Break out the Hammer and tap carefully away from car to loosen. I had to get under the car and bang it out, careful to miss any other parts

 

8) Now that it is out.. grab new one and reverse what U already did.

 

Reassembly Complete.. Enjoy the "Roar Free" Ride.

 

Total Cost has I taken it into Dealership: $970 and about 4.5 Hours or more

Total Cost has I taken it into Merchants : $840 and about 4.5 Hours or more

Total Cost Since I did it myself:          $242 and 3 hours (Started at 9am finished at 12pm after I washed her up)

 

 

Damn Baltimore/DC for their love of that damn Salt every time they see a flurry on the road.

 

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Very well done, Casa!

 

It was really good to see the savings that can be had by just doing the work yourself..A LOT! I've never messed with bearings..luckily I've never had to yet..

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Very well done, Casa!

 

It was really good to see the savings that can be had by just doing the work yourself..A LOT! I've never messed with bearings..luckily I've never had to yet..

 

 

Yeah.. between $600-and 700+ dollars.. Not to mention the time. I don't kno about U.. but I can use that saving to do something fun this weekend

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Very well done, Casa!

 

It was really good to see the savings that can be had by just doing the work yourself..A LOT! I've never messed with bearings..luckily I've never had to yet..

 

 

Yeah.. between $600-and 700+ dollars.. Not to mention the time. I don't kno about U.. but I can use that saving to do something fun this weekend

 

Absolutely! I would most certainly like to save 6-700 bones to go do something fun rather than a repair cost. 

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Awesome job Casa, Nice one! :metal:

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Never would have taken you as a hands-on kinda guy. Gotta admit, I'm impressed. It's always nice to be able to do work yourself and save a buck and peace of mind that the job was done right.

 

 

Gotta say though, kinda surprise wheel bearings were shot so early.

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Moog makes great OE replacement parts, frequently better than what came from factory. I got a pair of moog stabilizer links for my Malibu when one side went bad. The difference in part quality was pretty stark. I haven't had to do wheel bearings yet in 80,000 miles, but I know it's one of the weak spots on epsilon cars.

 

Good job getting your hands dirty and changing the parts yourself! Saving ~$700 is pretty awesome no matter how you slice it.

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Never would have taken you as a hands-on kinda guy. Gotta admit, I'm impressed. It's always nice to be able to do work yourself and save a buck and peace of mind that the job was done right.

 

 

Gotta say though, kinda surprise wheel bearings were shot so early.

 

 

Huh??? My experience working on cars is vast. Wheel bearing are the least of my experience. I used to build engines back in the 90s along with my dad.. Used to change tranny without a lift.. lol.. using railroad ties to sit the car up on all  fours. Body work.. interior redos.. Crazy the things U will do when money is not available and determination to ride in a sound and sexy car is your game. 

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Moog makes great OE replacement parts, frequently better than what came from factory. I got a pair of moog stabilizer links for my Malibu when one side went bad. The difference in part quality was pretty stark. I haven't had to do wheel bearings yet in 80,000 miles, but I know it's one of the weak spots on epsilon cars.

 

Good job getting your hands dirty and changing the parts yourself! Saving ~$700 is pretty awesome no matter how you slice it.

 

 

No doubt. I like their 3 Year warranty as well. 

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Moog makes great OE replacement parts, frequently better than what came from factory. I got a pair of moog stabilizer links for my Malibu when one side went bad. The difference in part quality was pretty stark. I haven't had to do wheel bearings yet in 80,000 miles, but I know it's one of the weak spots on epsilon cars.

 

Good job getting your hands dirty and changing the parts yourself! Saving ~$700 is pretty awesome no matter how you slice it.

 

 

No doubt. I like their 3 Year warranty as well. 

 

I agree with your assement of MOOG parts, I did MOOG ball joints and replaced both fronts on my daughters 99 dodge durango that she loves. It has the 5.9L and just keeps going. Finally had to replace the transmission after 225,000 miles. For a 4x4, it takes a licken and keeps on ticken. MOOG just allows it to go so much farther.

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