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Blake Noble

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It isnt any easier to find things for the B-body. I can tell you that. Most engine parts arent too hard to get but body or interior parts are a WHOLE nother thing.

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DUDE!!!!

Listen to the people ... don't give up on it just yet. I see some have given you some great links to eBay options.

I haven't been to MCSS.com recently, but have you posted there with the parts you need in the Parts Wanted section? Depending on what all you need, I would suspect parts will be available from someone there.

In the meantime, I asked in your other thread whereabouts in KY are ya. Shoot me an Email:

faithcubsmc2691

@

aol.com

...and we'll go from there. I'll even give you my cell# :).

Cort | 35swm | "Mr Monte Carlo"."Mr Road Trip" | pig valve.pacemaker ...RT 66 = Sept 5-16, '09

WRMNshowcase.legos.HO.models.MCs.RTs.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"I should've drove all night" ... BonJovi ... 'Misunderstood'

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Two things I have learned today: a.) the headlight buckets have rusted hardware, so I can't replace the burnt out driver's side headlight and b.) my car is missing this assembly and the wiring that goes with it:

IMG_1958.jpg

So much wiring on this car has been chopped, screwed, and spliced I'm left completely awe struck and aggravated.

I'm even more upset with myself for not knowing and not being more wise about buying this car. I should have picked this car apart with a fine-toothed comb and I didn't. Now I regret it.

Then again, '80s cars like this one are sort of like foreign territory for me. I understand the simplicity of an early '70s engine and some of the complexity of '90s powertrains. But this is a mechanical nightmare. This car appears simple on the surface but is damn crazy once you scratch the surface and start digging into it.

If I don't sell it (now I'm back and forth on the subject), I will have to remove the ECU and all of the associated emissions/engine equipment that goes with it. That means the carburetor has to go and the intake manifold will have to go along with it. The ignition will have to be replaced with a MSD system. The manifolds have to be replaced with headers. I'll need a new trans valve cable. I'll need an aftermarket torque converter lock-up kit.

Whoever owned this car before I bought it was a complete and total moron. Just about 90 percent of everything has been so badly abused, broken, and neglected.

Now I'm really beginning to see I made the mistake of expecting what I can see now is a project car to be a solid daily driver. I bought this car with a $2,200 dollar pair of rose colored glasses on.

Guys, don't misunderstand me, under different circumstances, I wouldn't be bitching and complaining about this car so much. I'd happily take it on and repair it if I had the money and didn't need a reliable, solid daily driver to supplement the Cutlass. But I'm unemployed and doing odd work to earn what little money I have. I pay my car insurance off of what little money I have, which keeps dwindling monthly. I can't keep driving the Cutlass daily. The more I keep working on it, the more that I find that needs to be replaced and I just don't have the finances to buy everything that this car needs.

James Bond, you're right. It doesn't make any difference. So I'm putting it on Craigslist and MonteCarloSS.com in a few minutes for an asking price of $2,700 firm, to cover the expenses of what I've bought for it. If, by any miracle it sells (and sells to the right person at that; if I find out whoever wants it wants to make it into a dirt track car, I'm going to send them walking, no matter if they offer me twice my asking price) I'm going to combine the money from it and the Firebird (from selling what's left of it in addition to the lump-sum payment I'm finally supposed to get next month from the asshole who wrecked it, which I'll believe when I've got it in my wallet; I'm starting to think I'm going to have one expensive court battle ahead of me in November) and jump on a well maintained and lovingly owned MC/SS.

Like Ninety-Eight said earlier, it's better to sell it (although the idea of it is starting to break my heart; as much as I hate the condition the car is in, I love the damned thing to death, I have since I first brought it home) and take what I've learned from this experience to find the right one.

My heart isn't in selling it, but my wallet isn't in keeping it.

Edited by whiteknight

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What I've learned 101: Addressing something from earlier, these cars don't mix with other cars outside divisions. The G-Body was built more so to the classic GM standards than anything else from the '80s era.

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Two things I have learned today: a.) the headlight buckets have rusted hardware, so I can't replace the burnt out driver's side headlight and b.) my car is missing this assembly and the wiring that goes with it:

You know, I haven't seen ANY car that hasn't has rusted headlight hardware. The '60s had the screws with the fine thread and they were really hard to get out and the screws are not commonly available. The '70s and '80s stuff have the standard sheetmetal screws, but they rust REAL bad... '90s stuff have plastic retainers and they tend to just break. I like rust over dryrotted plastic.

When I get a older car, I usually upgrade immediately to Halogens or better, so rusted hardware is common to me. what I do is take the whole bucket out by pulling the spring off and they wedging the two adjuster bolts out of the way... so the headlight is still encased in the bucket and trim. At this point, I can get to the backside of the screws... Some WD40/PB blaster soaking and some heat will usually loosen them. Otherwise, I will flex the bucket sheetmetal slightly, which stretches the screwhole. I also will use some vicegrips on the split-tip of the screw. They always come out one way or another... then they are all replaced with stainless and the problem never comes back.

So much wiring on this car has been chopped, screwed, and spliced I'm left completely awe struck and aggravated.

Then again, '80s cars like this one are sort of like foreign territory for me. I understand the simplicity of an early '70s engine and some of the complexity of '90s powertrains. But this is a mechanical nightmare. This car appears simple on the surface but is damn crazy once you scratch the surface and start digging into it.

Cars of the '80s are a particular mess of wires and vacuum hoses. Missing pieces and easily broken hoses and plastic bits are really frustrating... but you have to remember, its better than doing a mountain of bodywork. The parts are replaceable and available and with a good factory service manual, you can put everything back were they belong.

If I don't sell it (now I'm back and forth on the subject), I will have to remove the ECU and all of the associated emissions/engine equipment that goes with it. That means the carburetor has to go and the intake manifold will have to go along with it. The ignition will have to be replaced with a MSD system. The manifolds have to be replaced with headers. I'll need a new trans valve cable. I'll need an aftermarket torque converter lock-up kit.

I'm not so sure that wouldn't have been the case had it been mint. The original equipment GM put on these cars was a frustrating bunch of annoyance. And with the way new cars are, most folks are not satisfied by a classic that occationally floods or hard starts or has no AC. Fuel injection has spoiled us.

If you're going to try to improve the running of one of these cars, you are better off with a solid body that needs some lmechanical work.

Guys, don't misunderstand me, under different circumstances, I wouldn't be bitching and complaining about this car so much. I'd happily take it on and repair it if I had the money and didn't need a reliable, solid daily driver to supplement the Cutlass. But I'm unemployed and doing odd work to earn what little money I have. I pay my car insurance off of what little money I have, which keeps dwindling monthly. I can't keep driving the Cutlass daily. The more I keep working on it, the more that I find that needs to be replaced and I just don't have the finances to buy everything that this car needs.

I'm not trying to pursuade you either way. If you need a daily driver, you are likely better off with something newer... but that will have compromises. I don't think your going to find any MCs or MCSSes that have been in a time capsule... and daily driver usage will result in breakage to 25 year old cars.

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