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Anyone here use it; and is it really worth the extra change?

I'm thinking about switching the Camaros to Royal Purple. I haven't done so yet because of the limited miles they're driven. Royal Purple seems to be geared more towards high stress engines (racing, etc.) than cruisers.

Comments?

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I've just been using the new Dexos synthetic that GM has been using as standard fill on all 2011 vehicles. The new standards for that oil sound pretty robust, so it should do well in the tame use our engines get and I don't feel like I'm getting ripped off by Royal Purple prices.

I still think the quality of the oil filter is of more importance than the oil itself. Regular old dino oil is fine as long at you change it when specified. The new synthetics are more about length of time between oil changes.

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I tried it. Definitely better than conventional but I personally don't think it's superior to Mobil 1. Paying $1-$20 more when its on sale vs M1 just isn't worth it, since I haven't seen any concrete data about its performance vs other synthetics.

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Factual question: on any car engine where synthetics are not required, why use them? Also, have you considered AMS oil instead?

longevity of the oil. As long as you have a high quality oil filter that isn't clogged, you can continue to run the same oil until it's lubricating properties break down. On Synthetic, that takes twice as long or longer to happen. Synthetic oil also doesn't break down with age as rapidly as Dino oil... which is good for me since I don't do a lot of miles on my car. I'll be under 5,000 miles for the year I think.

On brand new engines, we're starting to get to the 10,000 mile oil change cycle.

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Actually it's not longevity. Synthetic, unless specifically stated, such as Mobil 1 Extended Performance, isn't designed to last longer. What it does is have far superior lubrication properties, and will not brake done the way conventional oil does under high heat. It also doesn't have organic impurities that organic conventional oil does.

And to dispel a few myths before they creep up: You can switch to synthetic any time, and you can go back and forth. It will not harm your engine.

Engines which require synthetic are engine which have extremely high tolerance and require the superior protection and lubrication. You're only doing your engine a favor by making the switch to synthetic.

It's worth noting that having a high quality filter such as PureOne or a Champion Labs filter (Bosch Distance Plus, K&N, and Mobil 1) is just as important.

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Actually it's not longevity. Synthetic, unless specifically stated, such as Mobil 1 Extended Performance, isn't designed to last longer. What it does is have far superior lubrication properties, and will not brake down the way conventional oil does under high heat. It also doesn't have organic impurities that organic conventional oil does.

which means.... it will last.... longer? :confused0071:

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Actually it's not longevity. Synthetic, unless specifically stated, such as Mobil 1 Extended Performance, isn't designed to last longer. What it does is have far superior lubrication properties, and will not brake down the way conventional oil does under high heat. It also doesn't have organic impurities that organic conventional oil does.
which means.... it will last.... longer? :confused0071:

Last longer as in longer service intervals between oil changes? No, unless specifically formulated. Last longer as in more durable for its life and offering superior lubrication? Yes, but that's not really "lasting long", that just means its superior.

I don't think those volvos or silverados that went a million miles used any fancy schmancy synthetic oils...... just sayin.

Well there's always the 50% recycled oil products for people who are cheap, so there you go.

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The Legacy will be getting switched to Mobil1 if it wasn't switched to synthetic previously. I also managed to get a K&N filter cheaper than the other Champ filters, so it'll get one of those, too. The CRX burns and leaks enough oil to keep it on dino oil in the meantime. :P

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Eh. RP is okay. Depends on what you want to do with the cars, and how often you want to change the oil.

Pretty much any synthetic will do the job. Heck, even a good syn blend will do the trick. The only really useful thing about synthetic is that it is great for cold starting, and extended drains.

My Ecotecs will run on anything, and do run in this order:

Her Cavalier: Mobil 1. I only do this because is not easy on cars, as sometimes this car gets a good smackdown. It's been on this diet for 7 years now, and still runs smooth and strong at 70k, even at my wife's hands. It's a shame this thing will rust out first at this rate.....

Cobalt: whatever is on sale. Granted, since I've owned it, it's been on a diet of synthetics (I tend to find good sales). Currently it's running Napa Synthetic (Valvoline synpower in a Napa bottle-very close to) in it now. Car loves it....even after this bad winter, the oil still held up great.....wish I would have done an UOA.....

My cav- Currently Quaker State AD Synthetic...another smooth oil that these cars seem to like. Because I feel like I'm not getting the full use out of this syn, I might switch back to a syn blend like Valvoline Durablend.

It really just depends on the use.....

Edited by daves87rs
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I've just been using the new Dexos synthetic that GM has been using as standard fill on all 2011 vehicles. The new standards for that oil sound pretty robust, so it should do well in the tame use our engines get and I don't feel like I'm getting ripped off by Royal Purple prices.

I still think the quality of the oil filter is of more importance than the oil itself. Regular old dino oil is fine as long at you change it when specified. The new synthetics are more about length of time between oil changes.

Bingo. Olds is right on with this one. And changing it at least twice a year.

Though this might apply more to me, since all I run are cartridge filters. I like my USA made Hengst filters (AC Delco brand) Only 4.62 at Advance Auto.

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Actually it's not longevity. Synthetic, unless specifically stated, such as Mobil 1 Extended Performance, isn't designed to last longer. What it does is have far superior lubrication properties, and will not brake done the way conventional oil does under high heat. It also doesn't have organic impurities that organic conventional oil does.

Nope.neenerneener.gif

Oils like Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil still have the same lube properties, but have a higher TBN in their add pack to make the oil last longer(and still protect)

Add packs added to the base oil are what helps offer the protection (more) and how long it lasts.

But, you are very right about the heat properties on how it compares with good ol' dino oil.....this is one of the big reasons with GM had to go Dexos with the new DI engines.

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My personal opinion: Use whatever you feel is necessary.

My opinion formed through technical training, repairs on client motorcycles and school: Unless your engine calls for it, Synthetic is a waste of money. A good mineral oil is all that is needed for anything else. Maybe if you use (read: abuse) your vehicle, use it outside of its intended parameters (trailering with a Corolla) or put on tonnes of mileage yearly, then Synthetic might be worth it.

Any impurities will be sufficiently filtered by an oil filter. As long as you change your fluids and filter in a timely manner, you have nothing to worry about. I've taken apart bike engines that hadn't had their mineral oil changed for years, and found no real trace of damage from 'impurities' anyways. And since the Camaro is one of your babies, I doubt you'll ever be missing timely oil changes.

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My personal opinion: Use whatever you feel is necessary.

My opinion formed through technical training, repairs on client motorcycles and school: Unless your engine calls for it, Synthetic is a waste of money. A good mineral oil is all that is needed for anything else. Maybe if you use (read: abuse) your vehicle, use it outside of its intended parameters (trailering with a Corolla) or put on tonnes of mileage yearly, then Synthetic might be worth it.

Any impurities will be sufficiently filtered by an oil filter. As long as you change your fluids and filter in a timely manner, you have nothing to worry about. I've taken apart bike engines that hadn't had their mineral oil changed for years, and found no real trace of damage from 'impurities' anyways. And since the Camaro is one of your babies, I doubt you'll ever be missing timely oil changes.

Good point there....

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A quality synthetic oil or synthetic blend can be beneficial in the long run. Comparing them is the hard part. Still, IMHO, having to spend considerably more for a synthetic oil brand over a superior dino blend when most value-priced synthetic oils already offer superior-superior protection, begs the question, "Does that mean I get superior-superior-SUPERIOR protection? What does this really mean?"

Bigger picture than just the protection of your vehicle is an investment in time.

I change my oil myself because I like to know what's going on with my cars. I do all of my general maintenance myself unless I'm under time constraints. For me, after doing the math for what I buy oil at (cost-wise), having an oil change interval at around the 8,000 km mark with synthetic costs about the same as using quality-conventional oil at 5,000 km intervals, but I save time. Even if I took the car to the shop, the hassle of adhering to appointments, dropping off the car and picking it up is a big deal for me because my preferred shop is a 30 kms drive. They're also the only ones whom offer courtesy cars, so using the local shop still means having to arrange for a ride to-and-fro. Time is money, and doing it myself is actually faster in the long run. Synthetic oil helps me out there with extended change intervals.

Protection-wise, synthetic has removed that ruddy-cold start dry-tick my OHC engines have; most certainly important during winter around here. With the Cummins Fleetguard synthetic media filters I have an 'in' on, I can't go wrong.

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  • 1 year later...

Here is an article with a more unconventional oil test procedure. Intresting read though.

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

I use royal purple in both my cars an 80's caprice and 90's LeSabre. I tend to go 5-6k between changes and lately I have been using Bosch extended milage fitlers (on sale at Meijers). usually about $55 per car. The beater caprice see WOT almost all the time and just lots of abuseive traffic driving. The buick is beat on but not as much since it's quicker. I'm young and like throttle, lol. Royal purple seems to always still feel good in the fingers after 5k while mobil 1 doesn't have that feel. Stoped using dino long ago. the caprices oil filter usually weighs a ton though. That car doesn't have much life left though so whatever. In the winter the buick turns over better on royal purple. The caprice will go through about 2 quarts of RP over an oil change. While on Mobile 1 its about a quart every 1k. Burns it off (I suspect leaky vavle seals), but doesn't leak oil on Synthetic oil. On dino it leaks and burns 1.5 quarts every 1k.

I like it and Its a US company and not much money in comparison to the money I waste on things such as the girlfriend or drinks before work. I work with manufactors and next to those huge million dollar presses there are usually drums from royal purple.

Generally Oil is oil, keep it clean and you should be fine, I just like the performance and probably false sense of security of a good pricey oil. As has been said, buy a good filter.

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