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Daily Driving Through Strange Times


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Simply put, I'm not willing to shell out $2,000 to $3,500 bucks for some '90s model car with 150,000 miles and have to constantly spend money to keep it on the road.

I'm not sure what you can afford to shell out at once, but If you can afford to raise that number to, say, $5000-$6500, you can get yourself a perfectly fine used car that won't nickel and dime you to death.Off the top of my head, I can name:

05-07 non SS Cobalt

J body (say what you want about them, they're pretty reliable)

any early 00s W body with the 3800

1st gen Focus

4.3L S10/Sonoma

Silverado/Sierra

F-150

Ranger

Dakota

Ram

Taurus/Sable

LH Chryslers

Even if you have to wait a bit to get that amount, you're better off doing so, and buying it in cash and not having a payment.

Plus here's some more food for thought

wish i could double rep this. these are all prime examples of cars you can trust (other then the cobalt, sry if that offends anyone but they are complete crap) you raise 5k and a car that will last you will be fairly easy to find. i paid 2300 for my Intrepid. its had rough patches but its still on the road, and i believe this to be what you call a commuter car. i put 30 to 60 miles on my car a day depending upon my classes. those build up fast and i can end up putting 200+ miles on in a week. and i haven't had a significant issue in almost a year (knocks on wood) my point is again listen to these people most of them are older then you have had had more experience then you. if you dont wanna do the work. well there are alot of things you arent going to want to do. but even if you are on a budget and cant spend too much its much better to have to spend $200 dollars every once and a while to fix something then to pay 100 every month on a car that might have its own issues anyway.

Edited by fullmoon97
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There's a difference between offering advice and trying to force someone to take it.

Just keep your white Accords on standby and, if someone would kindly close this thread for me, it would be appreciated. This thread has went off-topic far enough. Just let it die.

Edited by black-knight
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off topic? you asked what kind of car you should get we are giving you advice to expand your list to something you can afford. im sorry if u are offended by what is being said. but its the truth. im new here so you dont have to listen to what i say. but the others on here have been here for some time. and in most cases they are older and have made some bad choices of their own. they are trying to make sure you dont make the same bad choices they did.

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off topic? you asked what kind of car you should get we are giving you advice to expand your list to something you can afford. im sorry if u are offended by what is being said. but its the truth. im new here so you dont have to listen to what i say. but the others on here have been here for some time. and in most cases they are older and have made some bad choices of their own. they are trying to make sure you dont make the same bad choices they did.

Well, I didn't really ask, I just listed a few cars that I was considering and things sort of developed from there.

Sure, cars like the G8 and G35 were listed out of shear optimism, but none of them are completely unrealistic. You can buy a decent example of almost each car I listed for $13,000 and under and they all can be had for around $200 a month or less if you know how to work the numbers right.

The worst ones to insure would probably be either the GTO (which, if I remember correctly, was about $10 a month cheaper than the Challenger when I looked into buying one last year before my premiums went down) or Trans Am, two cars that I'm not honestly holding my breath for since they're also the least economical by far (a Cobalt SS/SC will run 87 octane gas without any penalty if you don't plan on doing any performance driving).

Another LX car, some sort of Jeep, or an Astra or Cobalt are what I'm really looking at. Trucks aren't out of the picture, either, if I find the right one. There are even a few cars that Z listed that I had simply forgotten about.

I can't buy a car that I won't be satisfied with, though. If I buy something I'm unhappy with, I'll just wind up posting another thread on here about how I want to get rid of it because of reason a and reason b. I nitpicked the Sonoma I had to death because, ultimately, I wasn't happy with it. It just means that there will be another thread on here full of my bitching, more white Accords posted, more bitching, and more treadded water. I think we all (myself included) would like to see an end put to that.

Understand, too, that I'm not unhappy with the Challenger, it's just getting to the point where I can't sustain paying $300 a month (plus insurance) for it anymore, job or no job, college or no college, or whatever.

As I've said before, however, I can realistically pay for a cheaper payment long enough until this whole mess is sorted out, and it just about is. I'll know on the third of next month if I've been accepted back into college or not and, regardless of the outcome, there's just a few simple things I have to take after that before I land another job. Sure, the unemployment rate is terrible and the economy is lackluster, but I'm determined enough not to let it stop me. I'll find a way to make everything work out as best as I can, one way or another.

Sure, it would be great not to have another car payment for the next four years, but from where I'm sitting it's unavoidable. My savings are my rainy day money. Spending all of it without having any money to put back is simply not an option.

It's not that I'm offended by anyone's suggestions, either. I'm just a little upset that this thread deviated into what it is now. I'm also upset that the general attitude here is that I'm completely wrong. Am I saying I'm right and no one else is? No.

And, again, I'm not ignoring anyone's advice. In fact, I really do appreciate that you guys care enough to extend it to me.

Edited by black-knight
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Have you considered refinancing the Challenger to get the monthly payment down?

It might work - especially if you can throw some cash at it when you refinance.

Just throwing another option out there for you.

It's something I've looked into, most definitely.

If I refinanced it, I couldn't throw more than a grand down out of my tax returns for a new down payment. At that point, I'd be refinancing something like $16,500 without TTL. The payment still somehow works out to the same $300 bucks a month on 60 months at about 3 to 4 percent interest. To make the payment cheaper, I would have to set things up on a 72 month term again -- something I'm trying to avoid at all costs in the future.

Of course, those numbers are estimates but they're very, very close.

I've been thinking seriously about a three-door Astra (I want one with a five-speed, but I can get along with the slushbox despite the fact it penalizes you on gas mileage). It would certainly be economical, cheap to insure, and affordable. CarMax is the first place I'm taking the Challenger to tomorrow, and, depending on how things go and what they offer me, I might see if I can't get them to transfer one of these two Astras (link and link) to the store nearest to me and maybe work something out from there.

That's still a big "might", though.

Edited by black-knight
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Hmmm...

Generally speaking, a refinance and longer term aren't good things. But, in your situation, it might just make sense.

- A lower payment that you can handle.

- A car you know the entire history of.

- The balance of your factory warranty.

- No disruption that comes with changing vehicles.

Think of it like a student loan - an expense you incur now for later benefit.

Also, you could apply more payments to the principal of the new loan whenever you have the cash, thus blunting the impact of the increased interest cost.

Doing this will also give you the benefit of the original loan showing as paid-off on your credit report. If you do it, you would still have the option to trade the Challenger in for something else later - it would give you time instead of pressuring you to "do something right now".

Think about it.

Edited by Camino LS6
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IMHO, if you have less than $5K liquid, you are basically broke.

You are quoting '90 Hondas with 150K at $2K and being a maintenance nightmare, but that it not you have previously owned... your previous maintenance problems were a Camaro, '80s Regal and a Jeep. You don't have to have a '90 Honda to enjoy relatively problem-free bliss... you can have a W-body Impala and pay $1000 for it. But this is all conjecture because going to that from a brand new Challenger is like going back to a digital watch after have an IPhone... people fight tkaing a step backwards in apparent status.

But your 20s are a time when you need to invest in the future, not splurg on luxuries.

Either stick it out with the Challenger (if you can) or buy something dirt cheap. Anything in between is a boondoggle. You will have plenty of time later to buy something sweet.

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It's looking highly unlikely that I'll be admitted into college this semester. Just great.

It's all total incompetence on the college's part and not because I don't have the right test scores or grades.

I submitted my first application of three total to them on October 21st. When I didn't hear a response from them the first time, I submitted two different ones to them after that during the second and fourth weeks of November. They finally responded about the middle of last month (about a week and a half before they were going to shut down for the Holidays) saying they needed an accurate date of birth (why, I have no idea) and a final high school transcript. I personally hand delivered both of those to them two days after they sent their response letter out.

I certainly thought I would've had an acceptance or denial letter by now considering the staff and students returned to campus today and -- guess what? -- nothing's shown up. I called the admininstration department today only to find out they still wanted an accurate DOB and my final high school transcript. Uh ... okay? Then who in the hell did I hand a copy of my birth certificate and transcript to?

Even if I do get accepted, the college's poor communication and general stupidity has basically screwed me out of getting any federal aid through FASFA or whatever (deadlines for the Spring semester are at the end of this month).

I'm close to demanding that my application fees be refunded.

I don't care if I have to go to another school, I have absolutely no problem trying to figure out how to relocate to a new town even in my current situation. In fact, it's looking easier to completly start over from a clean sheet of paper than it is to clean up the mess I have going on right now.

As for the Challenger mess, there's a decent chance something stupid will happen this Saturday concerning that end of things. If it yields a result and I decide to break news of it, I want every active member here to post a photo of a white Accord.

Edited by black-knight
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Good job Jacket! I hope it works out for you. Stick your Challenger on Craigslist and keep moving it to the top 'til it sells for the money you need. Concentrate on your education. Educated men are more likely to be able to acquire gainful employment with which to buy BRAND NEW white Accords... or something with a soul, your choice.

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Thanks, blu.

I'm thinking when the smoke finally clears and I manage to make all of the ends finally meet sometime in the future, I'll most certainly treat myself to a brand-new or gently used white ... six-speed Challenger R/T (I really loved Vanishing Point, hence the color choice).

Well, I guess I have a Jeep to check out here in a bit ...

Edited by black-knight
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"I don't know where I'm running now, I'm just running on,

Running on (running on empty),

Running on (running blind),

Running on (running into the sun)

But I'm running behind"

Today was a huge setback.

I can sign up for classes, but where my application was accepted at the last minute thanks to all of the back and forth from the last two months, a professor can (more than likely) kick me out of his class for missing the first day (which was today), although there was absolutely no way I could have attended without my tuition paid and my books on hand.

I could've bought a Jeep Patriot tonight and slashed my car payment way down, but negotiations broke down when I demanded that the cost of new brakes and rotors be subtracted at least from the price of the deal, especially when I discovered that it was in two prior accidents. Who knows? Maybe it was for the best this didn't work out.

Well, I guess that's the rest of the story for now. This thread, like myself, is running on empty. It's better to let it just putter on out.

Edited by black-knight
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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not throwing in the towel so easily. I've been fighting a minor respiratory infection the last two days and it's given me a chance to think and regroup amidst all of the hacking and coughing.

There's only one cheap vehicle that I know can suit me, so I'm just going to buy another Jeep Cherokee with my tax return, any reservation be damned.

Okay. Yes, I know the last Cherokee I bought had issues. Don't forget I bought it knowing that and for $450 bucks I might add. I'm also sure that if anyone here managed to see that Jeep in person when I had it, they would be hard pressed to say it had a cracked head right off the bat. While it also may have proven itself to be hardly worth the investment to fix, it also wasn't a daily driver (although if I could've brought it up to snuff it would've been) so it wasn't like I depended on it, thus it the circumstances surrounding it were completely different than that POS Camaro of mine.

This brings me to a question: would a public auto auction be worth my time?

It leaves a silver elephant in the room, but whatever. I don't care. I'll cope with it one way or another and if it isn't resolved, then so be it. It's not that hard to rebuild credit. Hopefully I can find some sort of resolve in all of this and an okay job before the $h! hits the fan.

I guess it's summer classes for me. I'm still sore (and concerned) about how the local university handled my application, so I'm checking into other options in the state.

I'm also thinking perhaps the time is right to move out of the area of the state I'm in. It's not like I have any affinity for where I live or that I've made a good amount of friends and aquantances. A new location could be a big boost to my well-being in general.

Edited by black-knight
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My experience is that most public auto "auctions" are just normal dealers selling cars as an "auction" with big reserves. Sometimes government auctions have some good cars, but you can't start them and the people who show up bid them to the moon. Any decent auto auction require special licensing to get in, but your state may be different.

I'm not saying don't look into it, but set your expectations accordingly.

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I totaly agree with the "to the moon" comment I went to the local Goodwill auction & it was the worst time I've spent looking at cars YMMV. Find a used car dealer who isn't a sleez and see if he will work with you for a fee. I've got a friend that has a junk yard and we had discussed this in the past only to find one in Craigslist.

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Yeah, from what I'm seeing, it probably won't be worth my time, either.

Sadly, Craigslist and Auto Trader aren't producing any results. Who on earth would pay $4,000 for a '97 Cherokee with 170,000 miles? Or $7,000 for a '99 with 110,000? The price on these Jeeps are flat out 'effin stupid. The '07 Patriot that I was close to trading the Challenger down to wasn't that much more expensive.

It never ends ...

Edited by black-knight
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Yeah, from what I'm seeing, it probably won't be worth my time, either.

Sadly, Craigslist and Auto Trader aren't producing any results. Who on earth would pay $4,000 for a '97 Cherokee with 170,000 miles? Or $7,000 for a '99 with 110,000? The price on these Jeeps are flat out 'effin stupid. The '07 Patriot that I was close to trading the Challenger down to wasn't that much more expensive.

It never ends ...

$7000 for a '99 w/ 110k. Insane....by that logic, my '00 GC w/ 135k must be worth $9000. Though I think it's probably only worth maybe $3000.

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Sometimes its better to buy a used car that DEFINITELY has something wrong with it and fixing it. A car with a bad head gasket can be in great shape and it worth little more than scrap... but a weekend and a head gasket or even a whole engine and suddenly the whole car is worth 3x what you bought the pile of parts for.

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overlook any spelling or grammer mistakes I might make, the Benadryl is making me drowzy

$7000 for a '99 w/ 110k. Insane....by that logic, my '00 GC w/ 135k must be worth $9000. Though I think it's probably only worth maybe $3000.

The prices used cars are bringing right now are absolutely asinine. Just click on the links below for all of the evidence. Oh, and that $7,000 Cherokee I mentioned earlier doesn't have 110,000 miles. It actually has 125,000. It's also a 2001 model instead of a '99, but even still.

Cherokee and Wrangler seem to be the holy grail of Jeepdom.

The prices of used, high-mileage Wrangers are even worse than the prices of those Cherokees.

You know, I think we're looking at the next (small) bubble to burst: used car prices. There's no way this kind of $h! can be sustained in the current economic conditions we're having to face.

Sometimes its better to buy a used car that DEFINITELY has something wrong with it and fixing it. A car with a bad head gasket can be in great shape and it worth little more than scrap... but a weekend and a head gasket or even a whole engine and suddenly the whole car is worth 3x what you bought the pile of parts for.

That's what I'm starting to realize. Selling that Jeep I had was a mistake and would've definitely been worth repairing completely.

You live and learn I guess.

Edited by black-knight
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