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Vehicle : 1940 Ford C.O.E.


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Exhaust is finally, 100% done. Was worried I had snapped something when a couple header bolts popped in the block and wouldn't tighten anymore, but a quick online search revealed something that would never have occurred to me. Ford flathead 8s have paired center exhaust ports, so headers / exhaust manifolds look like they're from a V6 :

91013606_L_151a7063.jpg

 

For reasons that escape my reasoning, Ford spec'd thicker bolts in the front outlets ONLY (on both sides), 7/16" instead of 3/8".

Reused the original hardware there, now everything's snug & tight & clearances all the chassis plumbing & linkages.

 

Next : finish off the brakes. 1 front wheel is done, other needs to be reassembled.

I've not yet taken the rear drums off- have to pull the axle shafts. The front bearings were rough, expecting the same out back.

Edited by balthazar
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Open one rear axle end today, not as scary as I was fearing. Saw a similar vintage Chevy HD truck rear, all sorts of geared interfaces & spider washers in there. FoMoCo/Eaton was very straightforward.

 

DSC03632_zps1221bee2.jpg

Temporary setback; I need a 3" socket to remove the nut. Not exactly commonplace.

 

There's enough scunge inside there that I am going to have to open the differential up just to clean it all out. Everything turns, but the rust/grit would kill the bearings pretty quickly. yay. 

On the positive side, those who like to 'bench brag' about, say, how many gears their trans may have…. some guys like to compare axles, such as "8.8-in" or "9-in". It will be neat to see the 13-in ring gear inside this Eaton.

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Got the nut/ associated hardware/ bearings/ drum off.

 

Initial inspection: bearings/races & brake shoes looks to be in very good shape. Rubber cups on wheel cylinder in exc shape, still going to pop it open to check. Drum need a minor clean up, but I think it's also going to be usable as is. Drained rear; after poking thru the 1/2-in of sludge at the bottom, an ounce or 2 of water drained out then 13 pints of gear oil. 

 

Going to pop the rear cover, flush/scrub everything out, clean the brake areas, and bolt everything up. Will update when I pull the rear cover with a pic.

 

Extremely pleased- the axle servicing will only cost me a gallon of 90-weight, and some gasket paper. This truck continues to manage to surprise me with signs it has plenty of life left, when no doubt to most, it looks like it belongs in a junkyard.

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Rear 15-in drum after cleaning it up. Pretty sure this is an original drum, not bad for being 74-yrs old:

DSC03645_zpsaae0bb9a.jpg

 

Some real filth inside the pumpkin, plenty of fluffy rust dust and an inch & a half of sludge at the bottom. Physically everything is fine at this point (operational evaluation is down the road), but it needs a ferocious cleaning:

DSC03643_zpsefe1a8fa.jpg

 

Strikes me funny: You often hear 'bench racers' comparing specs, performance RWD folk talk about getting a 12-bolt to replace their 10-bolt, or having a Ford 9-in. 

'Bolt' terminology refers to the number of RING GEAR bolts, not the rear cover bolt count. Yes, there is such a thing as a 12 bolt cover with a 10-bolt ring gear.

The strongest automotive RWD rear you can install is a Dana 60- that's a 12-bolt, 9.75" gear. Beefy.

 

My COE's Eaton rear is Model 13800, rated for 13000 lb duty. The cover is 12-bolts, the ring gear is 13-in, everything inside is safety-wired…. but it's a "SIX BOLT" rear. That, folks, is funny stuff. 

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In that I need to pull the other rear axle shaft, I want to have 2 tires on the ground up front for piece of mind (driver's side was up on a jack stand) …. so I finished off the 2nd front brake today: reused the races (which were excellent), but new grease seal & new bearings. All greased up & reassembled, it's really nice to see the front wheel spin (move at all!) smoothly & silently. Also attached a replacement driver's side step plate. Back to working on cleaning out the rear & pulling the other rear wheel. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rear is looking much better, still have to bore brush the axle tubes out :

DSC03660_zps2edf7e1c.jpg

 

(Very) mild upgrade on the running board :

DSC03662_zps310e7fe3.jpg

 

Took one RR wheel cylinder apart - it was frozen. Took repeated hosing downs with penetrant (Aero-Kroil; the absolute BEST) and some pounding with a hammer/punch.

I'm not quite sure exactly how that entire pile of sand/dirt got inside the dust boots (which were in excellent shape) :

DSC03659_zps997e9815.jpg

 

The pistons are reusable (one on the left is cleaned up above, did the right one after the pic), and the spring & internal seals are fine. They must've been rebuilt by the previous owner, but I think at least this side RR wheels were in the mud or something & shipped water/dirt inside. The cylinder itself I'm going to have to send out & get sleeved with SS; these are not repro'd and even rebuild kits seems to be nonexistent.

Edited by balthazar
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I understand that resto jobs are not always easy or cheap but I feel some places like the White Post Restorations just wants to ripe people off. Sad as I would hope for a fair profit they would want to drive to help keep quality old auto's around. Best of luck to you balthazar.

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  • 1 month later...

After repeatedly hosing the 2nd bearing retaining nut down with Kroil & letting it sit the better part of 2 weeks, tonight I went out, put the 3" socket on it with a 24" breaker bar, applied a moderate bit of torque and it 'POP'ped right off. I was ready to go the gas axe route next.

 

Inside was slightly better that the other, but I'm still going to send both rear wheel cylinders off to get re-sleeved with stainless steel. They told me 3 weeks turnaround, so going to have to shift gears to one of the other few areas left. Everything else inside the rear brake looks good.

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Here's the axle shaft end. Much like the 'verbally unimpressive' 6-bolt rear, these are 16-spline shafts.

My Buick has Mosler 36 spline shafts, as generally speaking, more splines equal less breakage:

DSC03811_zps5d953d75.jpg

 

Here's the 2nd drum inside. Not sure how often cobwebs appear inside drum brakes, but yea; filth:

DSC03809_zps2646579b.jpg

 

But the tube cleans up nicely:

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Wheel cylinder, freshly pulled. This is a 1.5-in straight bore WC, unavailable anywhere, it seems:

DSC03812_zpsc1c90f0b.jpg

 

I have no idea what this goopy tapioca is under the dust covers:

DSC03814_zps863c3e24.jpg

 

Makes sense to go with synthetic brake fluid (DOT 5) on this truck, as it will sit more than it will drive. Seems anachronistic, but only I will know, right? ;)

Edited by balthazar
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Pulled the master cylinder tonight. Same deal: some tapioca, some wet rust, a small pitted rot spot on the bore. Going to add it to the WC shipment to get sleeved, too. All other components inside (piston, cup, hardware) are in VG shape. 

 

With the turnaround time for these claimed to be 3 weeks, it'll be time to go back to the carburetor. 

Edited by balthazar
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I believe it is semi-solidified brake fluid. Was in both ends of both wheel cylinders (BEHIND the dust boots) and inside the pushrod hole of the master cylinder. And I've never seen spider eggs like this- unless they would give birth to Tarantulas.

 

My master cylinder cap is stamped 'USE G-M-C BRAKE FLUID". Apparently a GM cap, and it was correct for the 53-61 Corvette, among others. MC itself is different, tho.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got the wheel cylinders & MC in the mail to Minneapolis today. Going to see if they have new WC cups (none available locally) - 2 of 4 have 'chips' in the leading edges that may leak slightly. Realized I am also missing any sort of dust boot for the MC.

 

Next up is to finish the rebuild on the carb and the fuel system is done. Carb has been sitting out, clean but apart, on my bench for months. I lucked out & picked up a carb at an auction for $4 last summer, so I have a back-up.

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