Jump to content

Quick cash for a b-body


Recommended Posts

Ok, so I've been wanting an old wagon or van for a while now, because it would make biking, kayaking, and randomly moving stuff easier. Well, I found one, again, a Lesabre Estate, not sure of the year (early 80's) but it runs and they want $650 for it. Here's the hitch, my fiancee says I can buy it on two conditions. The first is easy, I just need to clean the garage so we have someplace to put it. Second is a bit tricky, I have to buy it with straight cash and cant deplete the bank account. We just put a deposit down on our vacation this coming winter, so cash is stretched thin for a couple weeks. So I'm in a tricky situation. Cant borrow money for it, cant raid the bank and I cannot, for the life of me, think of any combination of stuff I could quickly sell off to raise the money. What I'm thinking is picking up a second job for a few weeks, something like waiting tables or delivering pizzas again (*cringe*) to get the money to buy and license it. I also thought about putting an ad on Craigslist to see if I could get a couple of fat chicks willing to pay for some sweet sweet lovin.

Luckily, I've discovered the really ghetto car lots that have things like b-bodies and Astros for under $1000, so I'll find something that fits my needs if the Lesabre gets unloaded, which it should because it appears to be in great shape other than a little rust up front.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know a couple guys still in the pizza delivery racket, they say the money isn't what it used to be. Gas prices have shot up, pizza prices have shot up, but delivery charges and commissions haven't, and the higher prices are leading people to tip less. My server friend says the money hasn't dropped off in the last few months, so that seems like a more profitable route.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fat chicks need lovin' too...but they gotta pay

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got any useless crap you could unload at a yard sale? I would think you'd have at least a few hundred dollars of junk you could do without sitting around the house like the rest of the world does. Maybe you could divest yourself of some of those useless kitchen items you were talking about in that other thread.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

I may be able to get $100 for some of the crap laying around, but anything more then that would require unloading something that I'd have to replace, like my bike or kayak or laptop.

Link to post
Share on other sites

wagon07_24.jpg

Will donking it make it easier to load a kayak into the back? I mean, the load floor would be higher, but the reason I hate using the Fusion is that loading the thing onto the roof is a pain, so maybe lowering it would be better?

94roacur.jpg

But then, wouldn't it be easier to drop the Fusion a couple inches?

Edited by Satty
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, pizza business sucks more than it used to. People still think it costs nothing to drive the pizza to their fat, lazy asses and either tip cheap or not at all. Which is why I'm glad I no longer do it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with XP... have a big yard sale & unload some junk, esp. that combination

cappuccino-machine/pasta maker/food processor/HD-radio/geiger-counter

you were telling us about in that other thread.

P.S. if fat chicks payed for sweet-lovin' I'd be a millionare!

Link to post
Share on other sites
Yup, pizza business sucks more than it used to. People still think it costs nothing to drive the pizza to their fat, lazy asses and either tip cheap or not at all. Which is why I'm glad I no longer do it.

Want to hear something funny? before I left my nice, cushy job as delivery nazi, I went around to several stores and talked to drivers, to see what kind of money they were making. The drivers in the crappy, low-income areas made more money overall because they had a more centralized delivery area which got them a larger number of deliveries and made it easier to take 3-4 at a time. I didn't really think about it before, but apartments and trailer parks fit a lot more people into a smaller area than houses do. The drivers in the higher-income areas made more per delivery, but took fewer deliveries because they had a smaller (population-wise) delivery area. They also used more gas because they were either running singles non-stop or doubles that were spaced out.

that said, if I went back, it would be to one of the nicer areas, because I really dont want to get robbed or deal with the dumb white trash and their "You're 1 minute late, I want my food free" crap.

Link to post
Share on other sites
wagon07_24.jpg

Will donking it make it easier to load a kayak into the back? I mean, the load floor would be higher, but the reason I hate using the Fusion is that loading the thing onto the roof is a pain, so maybe lowering it would be better?

94roacur.jpg

But then, wouldn't it be easier to drop the Fusion a couple inches?

Just wow....

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Bump/update (bumpdate?)

Nothing is set in stone yet, I have a couple carrier pigeons out, I'm waiting for them to return to me with information on an Isuzu Trooper, as well as a couple of other cars. But the Lesabre I mentioned before is still available, and as of this evening, the funds to purchase it (or another toy car like the Daihatsu Rocky I saw earlier) have been acquired. I'm a wicked, evil, terrible, unscrupulous person, but by week's end, I'll be a wicked, evil, terrible, unscrupulous person with a new toy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Trooper.... :yuck:

Go with the B-body dude.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Trooper is 4wd and has new tires (one less expense later) but a ton of miles. I simply need more info on it. I'm going to go look at the Buick sometime tomorrow. If it hadn't been so dark, and the car weren't in a fenced in lot, I would have snapped a few pics.

Also considering an Astro that is really clean, but has a god-awful paint job, I would insist that they reduce the price by whatever a dozen cans of Krylon will cost me.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Troopers rust out underneath.

Way less cool, less practical & no better on gas

than a B-body with higher repair bills & a goofy

look like it was designed to be driven through

really tall & narrow tunnels.

The Trooper is lame, it has the look of a London

double decker bus with none of the cool cache.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I went and took a closer look at the Buick, the tires are good, the interior is in great shape, just a bit dirty. The headliner over the cargo hold is sagging. But the damned thing wouldn't start. There was 1 person at the dealership, a chick who was talking on the phone, so I couldn't get any info on it, but I assume its the starter. I'm heading back tomorrow, cause I really like the car for what I'll be using it for.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Way less cool, less practical & no better on gas

than a B-body with higher repair bills & a goofy

look like it was designed to be driven through

really tall & narrow tunnels.

The Trooper is lame, it has the look of a London

double decker bus with none of the cool cache.

I would agree.

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites
I went and took a closer look at the Buick, the tires are good, the interior is in great shape, just a bit dirty. The headliner over the cargo hold is sagging. But the damned thing wouldn't start. There was 1 person at the dealership, a chick who was talking on the phone, so I couldn't get any info on it, but I assume its the starter. I'm heading back tomorrow, cause I really like the car for what I'll be using it for.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, its an '89 (I figured it was older than that, but I was wrong) and looks something like this:

buick2.JPG

Only not yellow and not nearly that clean. It has the wood wallpaper on the sides, but thats peeling. The only real rust is above the front bumper, the metal between the bumper and that thin strip of chrome under the headlights is pretty well gone. The handle on the back passenger door is inexplicably missing. The rear hatch swings open like its brand new. Oh, and it has the Olds 307. Anyone know of any real issues with this particular engine?

Link to post
Share on other sites
BTW, its an '89 (I figured it was older than that, but I was wrong) and looks something like this:

buick2.JPG

Only not yellow and not nearly that clean. It has the wood wallpaper on the sides, but thats peeling. The only real rust is above the front bumper, the metal between the bumper and that thin strip of chrome under the headlights is pretty well gone. The handle on the back passenger door is inexplicably missing. The rear hatch swings open like its brand new. Oh, and it has the Olds 307. Anyone know of any real issues with this particular engine?

My thinking is that you should paint it just like that....

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Olds 307 is what powered both of my '86 and my '87 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (dElegance)s.

It's a great motor considering it's respective era.... it will give a Chevy 350 a run for its money IF

and this is important.... IF you make sure it is not starved of oil.

Theres two ways of doing this: check the oil (via dipstick) it early and often. Every time you gas up or

every 100 miles/3 days is a good rule of thumb. -- no back-talk from the lesbians please!

AND spend the $15 on CORK or thick rubber valvecover gaskets and throw them on asap... or even if

you pay a mechanic to do this it would not be too expensive.

The point is the Olds valvecovers are held on by only 5 perimiter bolts... two up top and three on the

bottom. This has always been the weakest link in the Olds rocket (based) motors.

If you:

1. drive a high milage Olds 307 powerd car with the original gaskets (my triple silver 86 FB had 180,000 when I replaced them!)

and

2. you do not monitor the resulting oil leak, not adding oil when neccessary

you will probably

3. replace the motor at some point or junk the car with a blown 307

----

Me and you may not be tight like Charley Murphey & Rick James but

I'm giving you honest, valuable advice here. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Troopers are often very expensive to maintain and difficult to get parts for; I'd totally rock the Buick wagon if I were you. $h!, just reading this thread makes me want to go out and get one!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, thats what I'm looking for. I've got a guy who can do gaskets (hell, I could do them myself if I had time) and who will do them free (he owes me) so the Buick is a more appealing option than contender #2, the Trooper whose electrical work was apparently done by the British.

As far as color goes (its brown with the woodpaper and cheap Wal-Mart tint on the windows) yellow isn't my cup 'o tea, I'm thinking something like black or maybe a gunmetal gray. Only problem is the tan interior wouldn't go too well with either of those colors.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I love yellow on 90% of cars but I'm not feeling "1970 GSX saturn yellow" on an '86 Electra.

Gunmetal gray and more so black Goes with everything/anything. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

You know what else goes with everything and helps the

car go unnoticed by potential thieves & po-po?

gray primer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got back from buying it. $650 became $500 really fast. The car needs a tune-up and fluid change, it started up after I fiddled with the carb for a little bit. The back driver's side window motor is dead (the window goes down so I assume its not a track problem) and, as I think I mentioned, the door handle on the back passenger's side door broke off. The handle is in the glove box, not that it helps much. The driver's seat back wont adjust (spider gear or motor) so I have to drive semi-reclined, but its not too bad. The brakes are mushy (wow, like thats not common on 80's GMs) and it has a slight exhaust leak. And what I thought was rust turned out to be broken plastic, guess I should have looked closer. That means there is NO rust on the body, just a dent near the back. Glass is good, bumpers are pretty good, seat belts seem to work. The tailgate window goes up and down. Basically, I'm pumped. I had to park it at the Autozone next to the dealer (they're cool with it) until Jill gets home to run me up there to get it.

It even came with the original window sticker, $19k and change when new. It was rated at 24mpg highway, and it will probably get around that once its tuned up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, and the people who owned it before traded it on a Caravan. I bet they're totally not regretting that.

I told a friend that it seats 8, she asked if I even knew 8 people. Harsh.

Link to post
Share on other sites

And all the lights work, somehow I didn't check that before I bought.

The previous owner left a pack of baby wipes and a butter knife under the front seat. Both were thrown out when I did a quickie vacuum job at the car wash.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had good luck with the Olds 307 in my 1981. Mine leaks a tiny bit of oil through the valve covers but it is only a drop here or there. It has 116,700 miles on it and it doesnt burn a drop of oil. Never have to add oil between changes. The transmission will go before the engine does if its like mine. It should go for a long time. Remember the oil fill is in the front of the engine not on the vavle cover like a Chevy is.

Link to post
Share on other sites

NICE!!!

That's a MAN'S whip right there!

I love those wheels.... brings me back to 1995,6,7

A family friend fo ours had an EXACT clone of that car, wheels and all, for their

"second car", their first being a refrigerator white '95 Isuzu Rodeo. They owned

a bakery and used to do the small to medium deliveries in that B-body Kombi. :P

Link to post
Share on other sites
I have had good luck with the Olds 307 in my 1981. Mine leaks a tiny bit of oil through the valve covers but it is only a drop here or there. It has 116,700 miles on it and it doesnt burn a drop of oil. Never have to add oil between changes. The transmission will go before the engine does if its like mine. It should go for a long time. Remember the oil fill is in the front of the engine not on the vavle cover like a Chevy is.

Awww...you ruined it. I was going to have a repeat of BV"s "where do you add transmission fluid" thread, only I was going to ask where to add oil. :smilewide:

The odometer reads 36k and change, I assume its been rolled, so at 136,000 miles I expect quite a bit of life left in it.

On the agenda for today is adding air to the back, driver's side tire, changing the oil and probably a good tune-up.

I do have a transmission question, its the THM200-4R, just want to know if the fluid is sealed or if there is an easy access point to drain it so I can add fresh fluid.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Awww...you ruined it. I was going to have a repeat of BV"s "where do you add transmission fluid" thread, only I was going to ask where to add oil. :smilewide:

The odometer reads 36k and change, I assume its been rolled, so at 136,000 miles I expect quite a bit of life left in it.

On the agenda for today is adding air to the back, driver's side tire, changing the oil and probably a good tune-up.

I do have a transmission question, its the THM200-4R, just want to know if the fluid is sealed or if there is an easy access point to drain it so I can add fresh fluid.

You'll probably have to drop the pan and replace the gasket to change the fluid - unless an aftermarket pan with a drain plug has been installed. It's a messy job (especially without a lift), so I would advise paying a shop to do it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just for the hell of it, I called Goodyear to see what a tune-up would run me. $350 for a cap/rotor, plugs, wires, and air and fuel filters. I'm on Autozone's website now and for the cap/rotor/ plugs, wires, brake pads, oil, transmission fluid, air, fuel and oil filters its $121. Plus, Autozone has a decent online repair guide, so I'm not going to have to hunt down a Haynes or Chilton manual. Autozone has my new favorite website, because they actually price their parts and even let you send your order to the store. There is no squealing, so I'm not going to do belts right now, and its going to need rear shocks, but that can wait too. I may go ahead and put new rotors on, depending on how the current ones look, for $18/each, its cheap and easy enough. I'm going to do some calling around about a motor for the back window, or I'll be super lazy and get new back doors, hopefully with good window motors and door handles.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just for the hell of it, I called Goodyear to see what a tune-up would run me. $350 for a cap/rotor, plugs, wires, and air and fuel filters. I'm on Autozone's website now and for the cap/rotor/ plugs, wires, brake pads, oil, transmission fluid, air, fuel and oil filters its $121. Plus, Autozone has a decent online repair guide, so I'm not going to have to hunt down a Haynes or Chilton manual. Autozone has my new favorite website, because they actually price their parts and even let you send your order to the store. There is no squealing, so I'm not going to do belts right now, and its going to need rear shocks, but that can wait too. I may go ahead and put new rotors on, depending on how the current ones look, for $18/each, its cheap and easy enough. I'm going to do some calling around about a motor for the back window, or I'll be super lazy and get new back doors, hopefully with good window motors and door handles.

If the motor is bolted in and not welded/rivited, it should be easy. If it is...that sucks.

AutoZone's website is great. They actually have pictures of what the actual part for your car looks like, not some gineric part. Great prices too.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll admit I'm a bit jelaous. It's a god deal, and

coming from me that's a serious complement.

Good luck with it, & BTW: welcome to the world

of 'Merican BOF/RWD/V8 tanks. Carefull... they

ARE addictive like nicotine & chubby-gilr sex. :wink:

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to unload the Fusion sometime soon because its getting on my nerves again, so the timing on this couldn't have been better. For $500, it was an incredible deal, for the same money I could have had the Trooper (with electrical issues that I am in no way able to fix myself) or a Dodge conversion van with 300,000 miles and its own electrical gremlins or a '95 Taurus with no radio.

Speaking of radios, the Buick has the standard GM AM/FM/cassette, but it wont stay turned on unless I hold in the power button. And the antenna was snapped off so it gets crappy reception. The latter I dont mind because there are no good radio stations around here, but the former is a problem because I could get one of those old school tape adapters for my iPod until I get around to a new head unit. I have some special ideas in mind for the sound system, including possibly an independent marine unit (waterproof) and speakers in the cargo area for any situation that might involve the back of a station wagon being open and some sort of sound being required.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gotta love old school RWD GM cars/trucks... cheaper than

anything out there parts wise! & excelelnt availability.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was surprised, my Autozone only had 1 rotor and 1 distributor cap in stock. I went up to put everything in the back of the car and play around a bit. Alex was with me and he had a blast climbing on the front seat and rolling off into the back seat.

The tailgate works pretty well both ways, before today I had only swing it to the side, hadn't put it down tailgate style. I got the radio to stay on by holding the button down for a while, dont know what made it decide to work, or what made me decide to try to replicate it, cause it wouldn't do it again. Damn, so close.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The freaking jack on this car is huge, like 4 feet long, no wonder scissor jacks became the norm, they take up much less space.

Now for a small amount of venting. The previous owner used a Fram oil filter with the grippy crap at the bottom. God only knows how many miles were put on that filter, it ended up getting caked with mud, so the grippy $h! on bottom was no longer grippy. And, being a normal person intent on putting a normal oil filter back on, I was using a wrench that attaches to a ratchet. That, obviously, wouldn't work, so I had to go get a freaking strap wrench and wrestle my way under the car and try to find room to get the damned wrench around the filter.

Ok, thats my rant, I still haven't dont the plugs and wires. But I did get to fulfill my dream of using the back of a station wagon for what its best for.

Link to post
Share on other sites
The freaking jack on this car is huge, like 4 feet long, no wonder scissor jacks became the norm, they take up much less space.

Now for a small amount of venting. The previous owner used a Fram oil filter with the grippy crap at the bottom. God only knows how many miles were put on that filter, it ended up getting caked with mud, so the grippy $h! on bottom was no longer grippy. And, being a normal person intent on putting a normal oil filter back on, I was using a wrench that attaches to a ratchet. That, obviously, wouldn't work, so I had to go get a freaking strap wrench and wrestle my way under the car and try to find room to get the damned wrench around the filter.

Ok, thats my rant, I still haven't dont the plugs and wires. But I did get to fulfill my dream of using the back of a station wagon for what its best for.

The strap wrenches suck unless the oil filter is way out in the open, which seems to be pretty rare.

Link to post
Share on other sites

What can brown do for you?

Sounds like a very fun bomber, Satty. And the work you're doing to it should be very therapeutic. If you don't already have a set, some portable ramps would help with your earl change and transmission service.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could someone who insists these are easy to work on please tell me how the bloody hell I am supposed to remove the spark plugs on the passenger side? The AC unit it almost right on top of the, making them pretty hard to remove, reace or see.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, it was the one in front on the passenger side that was giving me a headache. It took a bit of fighting, but I got it. Surprisingly, the back ones were the easiest.

I had to kinda guess on the gapping on the plugs, I've found sources that say .080" and .060" but nothing in the owner's manual. I went with .080" so we'll see what happens.

And the distributor cap is a bit of a pain. The retainer screws are spring loaded, they're tricky if you're not paying attention, cause once I started playing with it, I found it its freaking simple. God I'm dumb.

Anyways, I just idled it in the driveway for a minute and it sounds and feels a million times better, I'm going to take a short test drive in a bit.

Edited by Satty
Link to post
Share on other sites

I got it insured this morning, I still need to get a safety inspection before I can register it. When I was under the car yesterday, it looked like all the dirty bits were solid, so I dont think that will be a problem. Up next repair wise is the back window on the driver's side. Last time I tried taking a GM door panel off (twas the '96 Century) I kinda tore it up, so I'm apprehensive about exploring the inside of the door. I do need to get the transmission fluid changed, doing it myself will be a pain in the ass, but a lot cheaper.

I tried taping and gluing the radio power button in the on position, but it wont stick, so I'm thinking that when I hit up the junkyard for a window motor, I'll see if I can find a radio and just do a stock-unit swap for now.

It was really sluggish on the highway this morning, even more than I expected a 7-ton behemoth with a carburated 307 to be, so I cant wait to see what kind of getup it has now that its got good spark.

And I need cupholder. In 2008 you can get 8 passenger SUVs and vans with 15 cupholders, in 1989, you could get an 8 passenger wagon with none. We certainly have come a long way.

Edited by Satty
Link to post
Share on other sites
I got it insured this morning, I still need to get a safety inspection before I can register it. When I was under the car yesterday, it looked like all the dirty bits were solid, so I dont think that will be a problem. Up next repair wise is the back window on the driver's side. Last time I tried taking a GM door panel off (twas the '96 Century) I kinda tore it up, so I'm apprehensive about exploring the inside of the door. I do need to get the transmission fluid changed, doing it myself will be a pain in the ass, but a lot cheaper.

Get yourself a door panel removal tool. You just have to find where the speed clips are on the panel, stick this thing intehre so that it grabs a clip, and push against the door to pop the clip out. It's possible you may break a clip (or two or three) because they do go brittle, but they do have them in Autozone. Heck, I have a whole container of them I don't need anymore and you're welcome to them.

I tried taping and gluing the radio power button in the on position, but it wont stick, so I'm thinking that when I hit up the junkyard for a window motor, I'll see if I can find a radio and just do a stock-unit swap for now.

Ebay is your friend. You should be able to transfer the mounts from your radio to this one (or any 82-89 Delco unit) without a problem. As long as you get a pre-90 GM Delco radio it should swap right in. Ih 1990 they did change the connectors in the back, but there are adapters readily available.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Walmart has an am/fm/cd with aux input for $49, which would work. I also saw an am/fm/cassette at another walmart that appeared to have an aux input, for $29 which would be great, since I hate having to dig through a cd case, if I can get something cheap that will take my iPod, it will be a pretty perfect situation. The problem is finding the right dash adapter so it will actually fit in the giant hole the stock unit uses.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I

And I need cupholder. In 2008 you can get 8 passenger SUVs and vans with 15 cupholders, in 1989, you could get an 8 passenger wagon with none. We certainly have come a long way.

I never got why back in the day they had no cupholders...did cups not exist back then?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got a cheapie cupholder/console at walmart. Works about as well as could be expected.

I'm thinking it needs portholes, some tacky, stick-on ones. Or some Homer Simpson style "speed holes."

Link to post
Share on other sites
I never got why back in the day they had no cupholders...did cups not exist back then?

No. Back then, driving your car was top priority. Not drinking your coffee, or talking on the cell phone, or texting, or doing your makeup, or punching directions into a NAV screen, or reading the newspaper, or.....

According to my father's Chilton manual for 88-92, the spark plug gap for a 1989 Olds 307 is .060"

Link to post
Share on other sites
No. Back then, driving your car was top priority. Not drinking your coffee, or talking on the cell phone, or texting, or doing your makeup, or punching directions into a NAV screen, or reading the newspaper, or.....

According to my father's Chilton manual for 88-92, the spark plug gap for a 1989 Olds 307 is .060"

Wow!

That's a freakin' huge gap!

Wonder why?

Link to post
Share on other sites
According to my father's Chilton manual for 88-92, the spark plug gap for a 1989 Olds 307 is .060"

Sweet, I'll get it right next time I tune it up.

And the old plugs were gapped at about .035, it runs much better now. Dont know why they set the gap that high, nobody I know has ever seen plugs with that big of a gap.

Edited by Satty
Link to post
Share on other sites

They arent the fastest cars in the world. Mine feels like you need to push it to get it to highway speeds too. The Caprice is better to a point. Neither one will win too many races. There are so many vacuum hoses especially on the Bonneville that one doesnt know where to begin. And the Bonneville acts like it does have a vacuum leak. My fuel mileage ia about 15-24 given the condition it is being used in. Yours may vary. Make sure the catalytic converter isnt plugged. Mine did that when Grandma still had it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Satty,

I used to have a 1983 Buick Electra Estate Wagon, quite similar to yours (same color - I think it was called champagne - and woodgrain) except mine had the Buick chrome road wheels (and I later got wide whitewalls and switched out the hood ornament to the Buick tri-shield). I really liked that car!

Thanks for posting the pictures and sharing your buying experience. I wish you lots of happy and safe driving in your LeSabre Estate Wagon!

Link to post
Share on other sites
I never got why back in the day they had no cupholders...did cups not exist back then?

Ever hear the term "don't drink & drive..."? :AH-HA_wink:

Back before everyone workled 3.5 jobs

and everyone got used to driving while

talking on the cell phone, eating a

burger, drinking a 78oz coke & texting

on the cell phone while looking for an

MP3 on their ipod, people did not drink

while driving like we do... and when

they did they put their cup in their

crotch between their legs.

You wanna know what really pushed

cup-holders into the mainstream?

hot coffee is usually.... hot.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using the Q.E.2 as a daily driver since I got it. The Fusion has gotten about 40 miles put on it in the last 12 days, most of that wsa running around picking up stuff for the Buick. Its still slow, it needs the entire exhaust replaced, the driver's seat wont go up, but its a blast. And as a bonus, the window motor on the driver's side back door decided to work!

Some co-workers and I even use it as a lunch table. Even the new girl (who is dumb as a box of retarded rocks) thinks the car is cool.

I still really need to get the rear shocks replaced.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ever hear the term "don't drink & drive..."? :AH-HA_wink:

Good cupholder design is part of why the Japanese gained market share so much in the '80s, I think... one of the things I hate about driving my '87 Mustang or my sister's Mercs is the lack of cupholders. I want lighted, heated, chilled cupholders!! In Arizona, you don't leave the house w/o a bottle of water...and I have to have my coffee on the morning drive.

Edited by moltar
Link to post
Share on other sites

The factory suspensions on the GM B-bodies are very soft. I have added heler springs on the Bonneville and they made a huge difference without hurting the wonderful ride. Dad did this with the Caprice as well. Dont expect to turn this car into a speed demon. Neither of mine are speed demons but especially the Pontiac. I added cupholders to both of mine. Both of mine are less equipted than your wagon. Crank windows in both and no rear window defrost on the Caprice. Manual seats and the bench in the Caprice is the one piece one. The Bonnevilles is at least split. Good luck and have a little fun with the wagon. Does the A/C work?

Link to post
Share on other sites