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Blake Noble

Panther Blues

171 posts in this topic

lol funny title.

Anyway, the Camaro's gas gauge has its head up its ass. Went out of town, filled it up to a half-tank. It was about a 100 mile trip there and back. My car will go for 400 miles on a full-tank, which a full Camaro gas tank holds 15.5 gallons. That equals up to around 25 mpg in mixed conditions. That's about average gas mileage for a V6 Camaro with a 5-speed.

So if this is true, my car could have made this trip on about 1/4 of a tank, right? I've done it before, so it did it again, right?

No.

Apparently, it took the whole damn half-tank to do it.

It also somehow managed to go about 50 miles reading flat empty.

So today, I put five bucks in it. It obviously had more gas than it was reading.

The gas gauge went to a 1/4 tank.

Drove a total of 40 miles today. The car runs out of gas and I have to make a call to get a gallon of gas to me.

Now I'm likely going to be out for a faulty sender and I still have no clue where the hell this insane rattling and squeaking from the back of the car is coming from.

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This is not about 68 nor is it about a Ford product. I am disappoint.

Hope you get it fixed though. When the GM's tank is full the needle swings off the edge of the gauge. Works normally after you use some gas, fun little quirk.

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This is not about 68 nor is it about a Ford product. I am disappoint.

This is about my car which is, by certain standards, a Ninety8Panther.

Hope you get it fixed though. When the GM's tank is full the needle swings off the edge of the gauge. Works normally after you use some gas, fun little quirk.

I'd be happy to have a quirk like that versus this pain in the ass problem I have now.

I'm too lazy to drive based on known fuel range. I sometimes drive like an asshole, so my range varies by as much as 20 miles. I want to drive, not do basic subtraction every time I pass Grandpa bring_Buick_back in his Landau Park Avenue.

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The gas gauge went to a 1/4 tank.

My Cavalier was of similar vintage to your Camaro and I bet it had a similar fuel pump too. Towards the end the gas gauge wasn't working very well at all... it was doing all sorts of weird $h! including that. Eventually it just stopped working altogether- got in the car after school and started driving home one day- Gas gauge went to full when I started the car (tank was 3/4 full) and over the next five minutes the gas gauge cruised from "F" right over to "E" then back from "E" to "F", back and forth back and forth until I got home. Turned off the car, turned it back on again and the thing was pegged at "F" where it remained for the duration of the time I owned the car.

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Uh... buy a gas can, put two gallons in it and carry it around in the back of the car until and if you decide to fix it. I graduated, too.

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LOL!

On Good Friday, and for the first time in my life, I ran out of gas too!

It was because of my own miserly stupidity as my guage works correctly.

The sad part of it all was that the car stopped in the middle of a busy intersection, uphill, and a block from the gas station (I could see it at the next lights!). I don't carry a gas canister either. Lots of embarrassment followed. :fryingpan:

I hope you get it all sorted out Mr. Knight.

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Hope you get it sorted out, sir...

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The wagon guage is permanently on "F", and yes, I've run out.

Very annoying.

I'm not even sure I can find the sending unit for it.

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My '85 Fifth Avenue's gas gauge stopped working one day about a mile down the road after I topped it off. The gauge went to full, I left and started driving next thing I noticed as I looked down at the gauges I saw my fuel light on and the gauge was on E. I never bothered fixing it as I had a fairly good indication of when to fill up. But I ran out of gas about 20 times in the time I drove it that way. Especially once my fuel tank began leaking. Leaking fuel and not having a gas gauge really makes for an interesting commute. I didn't bother fixing the leak either which I know was stupid on my part, I just got tired of spending money on that pos. I ended up getting my Oldsmobile registered again and junked the Chrysler.

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Well, now the SES light is back again and the car is sputtering badly in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear.

I'm betting on the fuel filter, which is a job I can't do (I don't have the means to fix the sender, either).

The clutch is also getting ready to go. The return after letting off of it is very delayed and I think it's slow about engaging and disengaging completely in first gear.

Personally, I'm starting to get annoyed ... and usually that means ...

EDIT: And this is tempting as well. But it has issues of it's own: http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/1711829164.html

EDIT AGAIN: I also know of two F4 Firebirds for sale or trade ...

Edited by whiteknight
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My fuel gauge in the 2000 Grand Prix is always on full too. My mechanic told me to leave it be. I have and I just use my mileage as a guide.

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I've realized this car has turned out to be a bigger money pit than anything I've owned thus far.

I've been out:

$115 for exhaust issues/upgrades (that still didn't address/fix the main problem)

$375 for plugs, wires, and a coil pack I didn't need (how I let myself get taken for a ride ... I'll never know)

$325 for a new ICM + labor

$125 for a new catalytic converter

That's just about a grand total of one grand.

Adding in whatever it's going to cost to fix these fuel delivery issues, it's going to push well beyond that mark.

It only cost a mere $500 to get the Regal back on the road.

The Firebird gave me great service after fixing a few cheap odds and ends before ... well I don't like talking about it.

The Sonoma was starting to develop a few issues, but nothing that would have turned out to be like this.

While I loved the Monte, it would have turned out to be just as bad of a money pit. I'm actually thankful now, though, that I couldn't find many parts for it, so that sort of saved us from each other in a way coupled with my own outrage and aggravation over the expense of new parts.

I don't count the Cutlass because that's different in my opinion.

Well ... you know, if I didn't buy it and spent so much on it, I probably could have had a better car by now. So yeah. It does count, never mind.

I have college in the fall. And I don't need to be worrying about a damn car all of the time.

Something is going to have to give here.

Edited by whiteknight
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Maybe the clutch problem is hydraulic, not mechanical. Is the fluid level good?

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Probably needs a fuel pump/sending unit, that could be setting the SES.

Common problem with in-tank pumps on injected cars.

Not fun, not cheap, but worth doing.

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Fuel pump = not fun. One first gen LH cars, there was an access panel under the back seat that allowed you to remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank. Second gens don't have this panel, requiring you to drop the tank to remove the pump. That is not a job I would be willing to do myself.

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Fuel pump = not fun. One first gen LH cars, there was an access panel under the back seat that allowed you to remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank. Second gens don't have this panel, requiring you to drop the tank to remove the pump. That is not a job I would be willing to do myself.

Meh... did it on the '99 Bonne, which is not a particularly easy car to do it with. Later cars have an access panel.

In my case, the hardest part was getting the rubber hoses for the filler and vapor recovery off. They were really fused on, and there was little room to get some muscle on it.

To tell the truth, the Bonne had a bunch of stuff in the way, yet, that stuff helped the situation... as it acted as a shelf to rest the tank on. The job was harder looking than it turned out to be.

When I did the '91 Firebird or '89 fullsize van, it was actually MUCH harder.

In any case, the most important thing is jacking the car _VERY_ high. 3-4 feet minimum... this is tricky, as some cars will put the nose on the ground... or want to teeter back and forth... so one must be careful. Next important thing is to get as much gas out as possible.

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Fuel pump = not fun. One first gen LH cars, there was an access panel under the back seat that allowed you to remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank. Second gens don't have this panel, requiring you to drop the tank to remove the pump. That is not a job I would be willing to do myself.

Fox Mustangs are like that...the shop had to drop the tank in my '87 GT to replace the pump a few years ago..

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The number coil pack for cylinders 2 and 5, if I remember correctly, were the cause for the engine to set off the "oh shit" light the last time.

It hasn't come back so far but the fuel gauge continues to lose function, as is the clutch at the moment. Pressure on the pedal now sporadically ranges from awful to great. The hydraulic fluid level is fine. I'm fully expecting the last remaining unchanged coil pack to go bad anytime now as well; the throttle response is starting to get lumpy in the mid-range gears like it did the last time.

I don't mind routine maintenance but ...

Edited by whiteknight
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Maybe something simple broke in the linkage.

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Fox Mustangs are like that...the shop had to drop the tank in my '87 GT to replace the pump a few years ago..

Once you've done it a few times, it is pretty easy...I've done it.

The clutch bit the dust tonight, out of the blue, no warning, no provocation. Very disappointing.

You might try to buy a heavy duty clutch, one from a company that sells racing products. Not every heavy duty clutch is super stiff.

Considering I have a high school diploma, I think your car has a slight mechanical issue.

Considering I can fix darn near anything, I would agree.

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1st Order of Buisness: Fix that clutch.

2nd Order of Buisness: Maybe, just maybe, buy an '83 Cutlass (with T-Tops no less) for $500 bucks for a decent beater if it isn't a total rust bucket. Maybe restore eventually it since the '72 is just about there? I don't know. I'm going to check it out Monday.

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Outlook: plans shelved.

I called for an estimate (since I obviously can't drive this car anywhere for a full diagnosis) on what it's going to take to fix the clutch: $1,500 bucks. While I know I could get $500 bucks together for a Cutlass beater, $1,500 bucks is a whole 'nother story.

I also played my trump card: having my dad's friend who helped me out on the Regal 307 swap help me out on the clutch.

Either way, it still would be too much for me to bother investing in. I already have around $1,000 invested in the car as far as what I've replaced on it. Adding on another $1,000 plus would make this Camaro the biggest money pit I've owned when you also consider that would be $2,000 bucks plus I would never see again should I get into a situation where I really have to sell the car.

I should have never sold the Monte Carlo. If I had waited just one more week, I would have invested $1,500 bucks into a car that would have returned my money. Something-something what should have, could have, would have been, whatever.

So, this is what I'm possibly going to try to do first: replace the fluid, get the clutch acting temporarily right, then take it to an unsuspecting dealer. I'd feel far more guilty if I unloaded it on a private buyer than I would some shit-spot on the side of the road car lot. I'm also starting to think that's what someone did to the car before they unloaded it on the lot I bought it from.

As for what I'll get next, I don't have the slightest idea in hell. I wouldn't mind trading the Camaro in on a '04 GTO and financing the difference on an 8 year loan if I could, but it would put the biggest financial strain on me I've ever had so far.

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