Tech Section
574 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 1.4k views
I bought a Pontiac G6 in September 05 and started having battery problems the beginning of December. Dead battery the beginning of December, had it jump started and brought it to the dealership. They couldn't find anything wrong with the car. Two weeks later the battery was dead again. I had it towed dead so that they could find the problem. I was told that the battery was no good and it wouldn't hold a charge so they replaced my battery. Everything was fine until the beginning of February, again I had a dead battery. I had it towed again and still couldn't find the problem. The dealership called GM Tech Support and they said that I don't drive the car enough to recharge …
Last reply by cadtribute, -
-
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
Glad I found you guys on here! This is my first post on the site, I hope it helps! I'm looking at ordering a new 2008 GMC 2500 HD. I am in the construction buisness and my Yukon is just not cutting it anymore. I have some questions that when I ask the local dealer, I'm not so sure they really know what they're talking about, hopefully someone on here does. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is the 6.0L V8 available in the HD with Active Fuel management? IF so, how do I spec it on my order? Why does the trailering capacity drop almost 3000lbs when you select 3.73 gears vs 4.10 in the gas motor? I want the better economy of the 3.73 rear end, but don't know i…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 1 follower
- 21 replies
- 4k views
So, since it was actually above freezing today and the rain had ended, I decided to talking the badly worn alternator belt on the Prizm. First let me say, if I ever met the engineer in charge of the engine bay design I'll kick him in the balls. The front of the engine is so close to the inner fender that I can barely fit my hand between them. This makes getting a ratchet onto the locking bolt extremely difficult and annoying. You can't see the bolt, you have to fee l around for it. Once I got a ratchet on the bolt, it moved in tedious one lick increments because there's so little room to move before hitting either the pulley or the a/c lines. So I loosen it, then loose…
Last reply by Satty, -
-
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 21 replies
- 3.2k views
I was on GMBuyPower.com, pricing out a Solstice and was basically trying to figure out ways to get one with payments no higher than $350 a month (we currently pay $406 a month for my wife's 06 Escape, and I'd like to keep the payments on MY vehicle at least $50 less, if not more). I've never driven a car without ABS, so I'm not sure what its like to not have it, and I've also never driven a car WITH LSD, so I have no frame of reference there either. What are the advantages, and conversely, disadvantages to having these two options? Thanks!
Last reply by Intrepidation, -
-
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
I just bought a Buick Lucerne that has a 4.6L Northstar V-8 and I was wondering what grade of fuel would be best for it. This is to seek maximum fuel economy, performance and engine life. I want to keep this vehicle for several years so I want to use fuel that will help with overall longevity. Also, what engine oil would be best for long term operation and economy.
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
-
- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
Last month I picked up a crankshaft for the Corvette. It was advertised as a NOS 396/427 crank and has the correct casting numbers. Late last night, I get an email from someone who bought a crank from the same guy. His had the 396/427 casting number, but had the physical characteristics of a 454 crank (a 4" stroke vs/ a 3.76" stroke, and a dowel pin at the flywheel end). I open my box and, sure enough, same thing. Naturally I'm upset about buying something that's not as advertised, but I'm more concerned with making sure I can still use the 427 balancer and flywheel. The 396/427 crank is internally balanced while the 454 is internally balanced. With all the backgroung o…
Last reply by balthazar, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
I have a 2001 2dr 4wd 5 speed Blazer that is driven on almost billiard table smooth streets and had an oil change with lube every 3,000 miles. At about 55,000 miles when the steering was cranked from almost lock to lock, like when backing out of a parking space, a knocking sound could be heard. I had read a service bulletin on the sound saying it was due to ball joint wear and took it into the dealer and was told the lower ball joints were worn. They were replaced under warranty and the tech who worked on it said most Blazers don't make it to 50,000 miles without needing a replacement and he commented on how well kept and tight my Blazer was. I can't fathom l…
Last reply by SODDOFFBALDRICKZ28, -
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
Does anyone happen to know the location of the blower motor resistor on a 2002 Impala?
Last reply by fightingbee, -
- 9 replies
- 2.7k views
I have a 2k grand am and the blower motor resistor went out. The fan will only blow on the 3, 4, and 5 settings. The part is reletively cheap and I was wondering how hard it is to replace it. Any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by I hope GMRULES again, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 2k views
So... I've been working on a lot of brake lines... basically, I have two cars which have required nearly complete brake line replacements. Unfortunately, in order to adapt and fit new lines in a car without taking it completely apart, you use unions... and in retrospect, I seem to have gotten some unions that do not seal well... so I've had several cycles of bleed brakes - observe leak - take apart everything and tighten fitting - rinse and repeat. In any case, I hate doing any work to the car that I cannot do solo... and the one man bleeding solutions out there just suck. This got me to thinking... How do manufacturers "install" brake fluid? Its obvious that GM is no…
Last reply by SAmadei, -
-
- 10 replies
- 1.9k views
So I've overhauling a bunch of stuff on my '89 GMC G3500 Vandura. It started out as a quick quest to fix the brakes from pulling to the left, and to get it through NJ inspection, but after shaking things around, its turned into a mountain of replacement parts... new ball joints, tie rods, rotors, calipers, pads, etc. This was my late father's truck, and generally he kept things in good shape, as he was a mechanic, but I'm a bit disheartened at the condition, since I haven't put many miles on it in the last six years... I'm surprised he drove it with such a mismatching of worn parts. So, anyway, I'm on the home stretch. But after taking the brake pads out, there is a…
Last reply by SAmadei, -
- 11 replies
- 2.5k views
After we started up the electra, we found that the brakes are jammed...the "brake release" "pull here" thing is stuck, and the floor breaks are stuck. WHAT CAN I DO?
Last reply by balthazar, -
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
So the Grand Marquis needs brake lines and the master cylinder seal. I've never done this before. How hard is it to replace lines? I'm sure it varies from vehicle to vehicle, but a general idea of what to do and the difficulty involved would be helpful.
Last reply by SAmadei, -
- 40 replies
- 5.6k views
This is actually a serious inquiry. the Aztek turned 105k this week and I am generally faced with the possibility of needing to keep the vehicle for quite awhile. Good, since its a slight few payments left and its all mine. WOO HOO. Anyways, it's been great so far. Good on gas (prob avg 21-22 mpg over the life of the vehicle). Immense utility. Great errand hopper and road trip vehicle. Quiet and comfortable. Oil changes, one set of tires, one brake job, radiator and tranny flushes for maintenance. Only.....ONLY...... repairs on the vehicle to date have been the two front wheel bearings, done under warranty. Also a recall on a wiring harness. THAT'S IT. …
Last reply by daves87rs, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
I've got just shy of 90,000 km on the Cobalt now. It's time to take it in and get the winter tires on it. Aside from the oil (obviously), and the wiper blades, everything is factory. The brakes have not hit the screech strip yet. The tires even still have tread a few millimeters above the wear bars. So I'm wondering - should I just go ahead and replace my brake pads? Should I get any other brake service done at the same time? Should I look into replacing the shocks? Also, is a few millimeters of tread above the wear bar worth the time and money of saving the tires and putting them back on the rims next year, or should I just chuck them and buy new summer tires next spr…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
-
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 6 followers
- 10 replies
- 3.4k views
First, I usually don't do this. I used to bring Castrol or Valvoline to gas stations to have my oil changed not expecting much of a credit back. I have a friend who does often and I think it's tacky if the part is easily sourced. I'm in a situation where some parts are available on line, they are becoming less available in retail channels, AND, a few months back, one mechanic said. 'Why don't you bring in the parts?' It's a small shop. They don't even have an alignment rack. This small mechanic's shop gets real good reviews. What are the pros and cons of this? What would happen if there was a warranty issue in terms of fixing the problem (the part was a du…
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
-
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
The info was right on ! Thank You !, it was the crank sensor but removing broken piece in the block seems impossible. A guy says he has a tool for that . I don't. I tried leaving it in for a five mile gamble but the car stalled and the battery was dead just like that. Removed the new one thinking it was broke but it was'nt. Fished around with thin metal objects and I can get the piece to almost lift but it seems caught. Can I remove the oil pan and pluck it out ? Did I ruin the motor by leaving the other piece in there ? Please help , Thanks , Eric It's a 2.5 1986 Century Buick
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
My friend has a 1987 Century. It originally came with a six cylinder and now has a 2.5 four cylinder. He just bought it used and has had troubles since. It first was overheating then after removing thermostat seemed better then it did'nt. We changed the radiator cap, washed the radiator fins , flushed the radiator an block to no avail. It was hard to determine because it was intermitant. Then it seemed it would start to overheat when he ran the ac. This has over 100k. Next it was not firing on cylinder no. 3. Now no fire at all. We have checked the coils Put on different ones, Put a new ignition module plate and still nothing. One guy said it has to be the coil sensor. Is…
Last reply by eric1961, -
- 1 reply
- 1.5k views
Less than three years ago, I had a pressure control solenoid installed in the transmission on my 2000 Century. It cured a intermittent hard shifting problem and whine when starting out from a stop. I could usually stop this problem if I turned off the ignition for a few seconds but this became diffcult in stop and go traffic. The problem is coming back, about once or twice a week. Is this a known problem? Is there a TSB? Should GM help pay for repair because the same part has to be replaced?
Last reply by Mike The Canadian, -
- 9 replies
- 3.4k views
Ok, I have the Regal with the 3800 V6 Series I 1992 that now has original mileage in the high 200,000s. Incidentally, they have no EGR valves. I will soon have to go get its emissions test to renew the tags. Here's the deal. In most states that I've lived in and in which the car has been registered, they test 4 emissions components (HC, CO, CO2 and O2). In California, they add NO (nitrogen or nitrous?). At any rate, the car has performed fantastically on the first 4 components...extremely clean and changed minimally over the years. However, it's not as clean on the N.O., though it has always passed. I heard that this is common: cars run clean on all the others and …
Last reply by trinacriabob, -
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
1300kms! Is Tiger Paw this bad? I'm off to the dealer tomorrow.
Last reply by NOS2006, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 15 replies
- 2k views
It just didn't work when I went to leave the grocery store. My usually-faithful 1992 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, white with woodgrain and wire wheels. I bought my groceries and turned the key to start it and leave. It cranked (and cranked) but wouldn't actually start. The AAA sent a little pickup out but they're not allowed to touch anything on a customer's car - they could only jump-start it, which it didn't need. So then a AAA car hauler came, loaded it up, and dropped it off at a local Firestone store. They said it'll be a couple of hours before they can even get to it. It could be: the fuel pump? the pick-up core / modulator? the timing chain? Any …
Last reply by knightfan26917, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
Does anyone know of an online parts source that's reasonable? Long gone are the days, when I had friends at the local NAPA store, where I'd get parts for the same as what the local shop paid. Right now I am looking an EGR valve among other things, and two hundred bucks is just too much for a no-name brand replacement. Thanks in advance
Last reply by NDL, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
okay so, i have a 99 malibu with the 3.1 and california emissions. i have a wierd surge that has been explained to me, and i've somewhere heard that it's important to keep the engine lubed because of the emissions thing. you guys are the smartest out there, i need professionals to break it all down for me. i wanna know how it works, why it does it, how it does it, and mainly what effect it has on my car and what i should do to balance out my loss of power because in these times i need to do all i can to get every sip of gas out of her... i would really appreciate your help. thanks guys...
Last reply by Croc, -
- 1 follower
- 23 replies
- 3.2k views
As some of you know, my mom has a 2005 Cobalt base sedan. She's had a few issues, and I want to see if anyone reading this has had similar experiences. Cloth coming out from under the pull cup in the door trim panels. Radio going into "lock" mode for no apparent reason. Resets itself with an ignition cycle. Ignition lock cylinder refusing to lock, preventing the key from being removed.
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
- 40 replies
- 4.2k views
Since Ocn is in the biz I figured he would know, but anyone with info please share. So I'm looking at photos of my car and I have to say...they depress the hell out of me. The driver's side looks terrible. There's the scrapes in fender and front door from when it was hit by a POS Protege, there's the scrapes left by that Integra that hit it, and over the winter someone scraped it further with the snow blower. The replacement door is an improvement over the huge dent the original had, but it got scraped from the snow blower too. As well, I'm not sure if the door or the rub strip or both are misaligned...but I hate it so much. Also the paint shades are different. The r…
Last reply by A Horse With No Name, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
Am replacing the front springs on a 1967 Camaro resto. Is it possible to get the springs back into their perches with out some kind of spring compressor? I noticed when I removed the old ones that they had to be pried out as they were under some compression, my manual doesn't mention any advice on this issue! Thanks again, hipirn..
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
Can a 2.2L Ecotec easily be put into a 1999 Sunfire that only has the 2.2L? I want to know because I heard that the 2.2L are pretty shotty but the Ecotecs were significantly better. Could this be done without switching out the tranny? The engine in it is fine but once it starts getting into the higher mileage in the future. Also what else would need to be changed? Also, can G5/Cobalt rims be put on a 99 Sunfire and are they the same bolt pattern. They both have the 5 wheel nuts but I don't like the look of the wheel covers.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 2 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi guys, My 2001 Olds Aurora 3.5 needs a new motor mount. My mech told me it's the "front motor mount," but he doesn't have the part number handy and I was wondering if I could find it cheaper online. Can someone track this down for me? Having difficulty... Pertinant info: SECOND GEN V6 ...and it's the motor mount that keeps the engine down in front. I've seen mounts listed as engine, transmission, right, left, front, back...a little lost as to what exactly GM called it for this one... THANKS
Last reply by Croc, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 16 replies
- 2.7k views
Since getting the car out of storage the rotor on the rear passenger side has made a lot of noise, and while both rear rotors had grooves in them, the passenger side had more. Driver: Passenger: So today I had the rotors turned, and the results looked good. Lightly sanded the pads as well. Reassembled everything. Things looked pretty good although when I spun the wheels they still made some noise... Was getting ready to take it for a drive, so I pressed the pedal down a few times to seat the pads, however on the third or forth try the pedal went to the floor and a heard a "hiss". Sure enough, fluid is leaking out of the rear line on the driver's side. Terrific.…
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
-
- 14 replies
- 3.6k views
I know nothing. I have an old Sony deck that's about 8 years old and my speakers are worn out in my car. I want to get new speakers to just replace my OEM ones and a new deck with USB connection and AUX jack for my ipod and sirius. anybody have suggestions? Also, if the lights can be red, it would be helpful to match my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT Sedan
Last reply by balthazar, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I'm in want of a better audio system in my 1990 Sierra extended cab. Right now, everything is stock and I'd like to see if anyone here can give me a hand on how I should go about replacing the system, as well as give me some recommendations of speaker types and brands that I ought to consider. From what I understand, I'm looking for a new head-unit and four speakers - two in the front of the dash and two in the pillar. But I have no idea where to start and whether I need an amplifier or if I'd like a subwoofer or not. Also, I'm unsure about wattages and how they play into things. Most of my music is primarily rock/acoustic so I'm in no need of huge bass, though some …
Last reply by G. David Felt, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 1 follower
- 22 replies
- 3.9k views
I wasn't sure where to post this, but it could be an interesting thread..i.e. features in a new car that no one offers currently today. While driving around earlier today, I realized that I'd really like to have TiVo capabilities for car audio...that is, the ability to pause live radio, back up, record it, play it back, etc. I do listen to a fair amount of talk radio (NPR and Air America) and inevitably, I don't hear an entire broadcast because of timing (or running errands--hop out of the car for 15 min, come back and have missed 15 min of a broadcast). No car maker offers features like this currently that I'm aware of.
Last reply by Oracle of Delphi, -
-
how can i get my car-dvd player to work when car is in gear (cadillac 02 deville please help
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
Has anyone had experience using one of these rotisseries? Is it worth it to spend extra to get the hydraulic version? I'm getting into car restoration and thought it might be useful to have if not this particular rotisserie, one similar to it. I'm open for any suggestions. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-13439-16612.aspx
Last reply by balthazar, -
- 37 replies
- 4.7k views
I've noticed the wagon has been sluggish lately, and running pretty rough. But since it has starting getting colder the last few days, it somehow seems to run better... The idle isn't as rough, a bit more pick up (not much) and pretty much stays that way even after running for a while. It weird that it is affected by weather... Could it be a sensor? Everything else Haven't checked all hoses yet, though) I've been betting on the EGR... What do you guys think? Ask me anything....
Last reply by capriceman, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 2.4k views
I have a 99 chevy malibu with 2.4. 78000 miles. When its below 40 degrees its hard to get the car moving. 3000rpm gets me around 2 mph. it runs fine after it has warmed up for 5 min. Above 40 degrees the car runs fine. I hooked up a scan gage to it and could not see a problem. can the spark plugs cause this problem? I never replaced them. thanks
Last reply by loki, -
- 13 replies
- 2.3k views
if i buy a 350 crate motor with a carb on it could i just put my manifold from my 305 on it and keep fuel injection or would i have to change my whole fuel system?what would i have to do to change my fuel system
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 5 replies
- 8.5k views
I know that when this technology was newer, the cast iron block and aluminum head could be a problem if the engine ever overheated and it warped the head gasket. I know of a friend's parents with a Thunderbird this happened to. However, I don't hear much about this anymore. The Chevy V6s, 3.1, 3.4, 3.5, 3.9 are all cast iron block/aluminum head. Most engines are like this now. Only the 3800 and a few others remain as iron block/iron head. Do you think this is a cause for concern? Have they addressed the fact that a car can run a little hot? Any thoughts or opinions?
Last reply by razoredge, -
- 13 replies
- 2.8k views
I don't know how much help I'll get, this being a GM site and all, but maybe someone has delt with Chrysler's CD Changers. I have no idea how to work it or if it even works. I hooked up the stereo and CD changer to my car today to see if they worked. The Am/FM works, but the CD player doesn't...gives a disc read error every time I put a CD in. I'm not surprised since someone stuff change in the thing. The CD Changer powers up, but all that happens is all of the lights blink. I can't insert a disc in and when I press any of the eject buttons nothing happens. Meanwhile, the stereo doesn't seem to go to CD-C mode. The same button is used to toggle between the CD play…
Last reply by Cory Wolfe, -
- 2 replies
- 2k views
Is this normal? Sometimes the CD won't read properly when the weather is cold, like around -6 or 7 degrees Celsius. It started to do this recently. The manual only mentions when it's too hot it won't play.
Last reply by the_yellow_dart, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
:( Hope someone can help! We have a 1998 9000 cse with intermittent power lock issues. The key will always unlock the driver's door, but off and on the other doors will not lock or unlock with the drivers door or the console power lock. I have opened up the drivers door today (dismantled completely) and I found that the lock actuator clicks and 'bulges' slightly when the console lock is pressed, but it does not move the lock. Has anyone had these problems? Thank you for any help
Last reply by ToniCipriani, -
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
I need help to find the location of the crank sensor for the 1986 century crank sensor. Also is there a coil sensor? And where is the brain located and can it be tested? Is there a site with pictures and instructions? Thanks Eric
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
I have a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu MAXX LS and I would like to use my MP3 player in the car. I have never been satisfied with FM transmitters. I noticed that a bunch of the newer GM cars have a radio with an auxiliary in port on the front that would allow me to plug in my mp3 player and not have to deal with the lousy FM quality sound. I'm wondering if I were to buy the radio from something like an 06' Impala or 07' Tahoe if I'd be able to have it installed in my car and have everything work. As you all know, the radio in the Malibu handles a lot of the car's readouts, such as oil life, gas mileage and so forth. I want to make sure I don't lose those. I compared pictures…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 2k views
2005 Cobalt with 5 speed manual So the other day my wife was driving along, shut the car off while rolling then put it into gear letting the car start while rolling. Once the car restarted the check engine light came on, and the fuel gauge said it was empty. The next day when we restarted the car the fuel guage was working, but the check engine light is still on. Any thoughts?
Last reply by Newbiewar, -
- 7 replies
- 1.9k views
what is the diffrences if it flashes or it stays on for the first time today my check engine light flashed like 2 min then it went off and came back on but it did something and now my truck seems faster i know the light stays on because i have no o2 sensors hooked up so it goes to safe fuel mode but y would it flash all the sudden?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 0 replies
- 1k views
what is the best way to rebuild a 305 with more horse power the motor now has 170000 miles on it and when i hit the gas the oil pressure drops instead of getting higher and i want more horsepower
Last reply by chipawah, -
- 1 reply
- 1.8k views
what is the best way to rebuild a 305 with more horse power the motor now has 170000 miles on it and when i hit the gas the oil pressure drops instead of getting higher and i want more horsepower i have a 96 k1500 z71 and i do often play in the mud i have the stock transmission but i have 4.10 gears in the rear if i upgraded to a crate 350 would i have to convert to a carb or could i still use my fuel injection what should i do build the 305 or get a 350 crate motor
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 7 replies
- 2.2k views
What's the purpose of the chin spoiler on the Equinox? Does the Equinox need the spoiler for downforce at high speeds? It can't be an air dam because the grill of the Nox is more than big enough for air to cool the radiator. To me, it looks like it is just a drag on the air as it flows around the spoiler. This can be said for a lot of vehicles on the road. So, apparently there is a reason for it, but what?
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Am restoring a 1967 Camaro with the 350 v-8 (295 HP) not interested in high performance just original type performance using regular or mid grade gasoline, the engine will be a .30 over bore with the stock double hump heads.. Should I use dished or the original type flat top pistons? What about camshafts?? There sure a lot of options out their.. Thanks.. hipirn
Last reply by balthazar, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 13 replies
- 1.8k views
This ends up being a shout out to the guy who impresses me the most with his detailing... DF... Help Me! ;-) So I have a handshake deal on a '97 Tahoe. Tan leather interior. Rug is a frigging disaster. Its not really ground in too much, but it looks like a series of spilled sugary drinks and lots of dirt stuck to that. I have a Spot Bot, but I'm not sure it can get into all the nooks and crannies with it. How would you handle it? It would not bother me to remove the carpet, but I would be a bit afraid that getting it to fit back in would be a PITA.
Last reply by SAmadei, -
-
- 7 replies
- 1.9k views
I think my air filter is about ready to be cleaned. I believe it is washable because its the aftermarket cone filter kind. So is there any special way to clean these or can I just use good ol' soap and water? Also, I've seen some filters that say they are "oilable" or something like that. I'm not use if mine is or not but what does that mean and does it hurt if I don't do it?
Last reply by rkmdogs, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 3 followers
- 13 replies
- 13.1k views
This is in reference to my 2004 Grand Prix with the 3800 series III. This issue with stalling on start up seems to be pretty typical of the vehicle. I've been reading anything I can find on my Grand Prix starting issues, and I have read many other people who have had this issue and they say to clean the throttle body, because of the sensitivity to build up by the "drive by wire" throttle system. Anyone ever hear of this, or have any good ideas on how to go about cleaning the throttle body? I haven't had the time to check into anything else yet, such as testing the pressure in the fuel system, because I don't have a tool to do that with. Plus, I don't know nearly as…
Last reply by trinacriabob, -
-
- 2 replies
- 2k views
Just a quick question-The MINI Cooper S supercharged and the Cobalt SS/SC used the same superchargers, and the Cooper S's have been having problems hat 100K-150K- Anyone hear about similar problems with the Cobalt?? Chris
Last reply by NOS2006, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 2k views
After installing a Flowmaster muffler on my 2009 Ford Ranger XLT, I have decided to add another mod. I am planning to install a cold air intake, I heard that it improves a vehicle's horse power and fuel consumption. What brand should I go for?
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
-
- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
Before the Buick was parked for its (seemingly never-ending) heart transplant, it was squealing badly. Brake pads, duh. I'm going to replace the pads and rotors tomorrow, I figure that as long as I'm going to be playing down there, I'd do the bushings. Is there an easy way to get them out?
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 9 replies
- 2k views
I wished GM had done a better job with the cooling systems in the 1997-2003 Chevy Malibus. Do the 04-07 have the same problems? There has been litigation against GM over the coolant problems but you had to file before October of 2008. Do a search of LITIGATION AGAINST DEXCOOL. Can you use another kind of antifreeze other than Dex Cool?
Last reply by schuby87, -
-
- 29 replies
- 3.8k views
So this is getting a little worrisome... It all started back in late October, I had the Cavalier in to the dealer to have it inspected before the snow flew and about 2 days after I got it back, I was driving home and the coolant light came on. When the engine was nice and cold, the coolant was just about an inch below the "Full Cold" line. I took it back to the dealer and talked to the service manager, he decided to fill it for me himself because it should have been checked... so he filled it up for me en gratis and it seemed fine, but now, on my way home, again the coolant light came on, so when I got home and the engine cooled off, sure enough, coolant is almost an…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
For some reason, the truck is losing coolant and yet the engine doesn't overheat. I haven't driven it more than 25 miles one way. What could the problem be? It does release water out the exhaust at times. I hear a squealing sound when it first starts up. Temp gage never goes above 1/4. When it is low on coolant it tends to make a trashing sound?? And you can hear a gurgling sound when you start it up. I know it could be several things" head gasket intake gasket freeze plug thermostat seals I can't see any visible leaks however.
Last reply by z28luvr01, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
The 2 front cooling fans don't come on even after you have driven for 15 miles. When you turn on the AC, neither fan works. The AC won't work. Is this expensive to repair? Do you have to check on several things before you will be able to find out the reason for the fans not working? If you continue to drive with the fans not working, will it damage the engine? I would never recommend a 97-03 Malibu. A real headache.
Last reply by fightingbee, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
- 11.6k views
When the Lt1 first came out, a big deal was made about the flow direction of the coolant, from the top, or heads on down, as an improvement in engine cooling system technology, and adding to the longevity of an engine. Now, I recently read that the LS1 & LS2 were reverted back to the old system, of coolant flow from the bottom of the engine up and out thru the heads. My question is, is this correct, and if so, why? What was the technical reasons for reverting back? The explanations for going to the heads first system made a lot of sense, and I have not heard anything about why this methodology was dropped, if in fact it was dropped. If it wasn't, then why is t…
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
-
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 4 followers
- 21 replies
- 487 views
So my sister needs a new laptop and asked if I could use my employee discount to get her a good deal. I was more than happy to help, but after looking at the Dell Web Site and what Costco has coming up, it is clearly better to buy via Costco for the actual laptop. So here is the cost via dell.com Here is the same laptop currently at Costco or via their website. Here is the upcoming November 28th Holiday Sale by Costco. I did notice that Costco has raised the Warehouse Price, but the discount still saves an additional $150 dollars.
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
-
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 3.6k views
A friend of mine has a '01 Silverado that has just started to make a loud and "oh so very not happy" RPM related tapping sound when the engine is cool/cold. Noise appeared to go away when the engine heated up, and to his backyard mechanic's ear, it sounded like a sticky lifter, loose valve lash or other valve train related problem. As he had some other work to be done on his truck that required some professional expertise, he took the truck to a GM dealer workshop. He was totally not expecting the cause of the "valve train" noise to be driveline related, namely a cracked flex plate. GM used to be notorious for blowing flex plates. I'd like to think they've changed, bu…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
The other day a old line snapped on my 85 Riviera. I took it in even though i could of ran a new line because i thought i would save the stress of doing it myself. When i got it back it felt pretty good. Then after a few weeks the petal felt spongy. Then I took a look in the reservoir, there was no brake fluid left in the rear section. I looked around for leaks and i found where it was coming from. At the proportioning valve the dumbass that orked on my car didn't even have it more then hand tightened on and not just one line but all three. I think from now on I will work on my own brakes and trust myself.
Last reply by Buickfosure, -
- 21 replies
- 3k views
even a week a go my car seemed to crank very normally, but the past few days it's seemed labored, it still starts). it's getting closer to 7 months w/o changing my oil (thinking ~2500miles is plausible), my battery, I tested, is still 12.3+V. at ~145k would the starter be going bad or is it more likely it's a loose connection...or something else? any advice? i'll also be asking my dad about it.
Last reply by CMG, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 3 followers
- 21 replies
- 4.4k views
Amazing what we did for marketing during the early console days. What other ads can you find?
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
-
- 27 replies
- 4.2k views
The vinyl on the dashboard has begun to separate at the bottom of the dashboard...i.e. above the emergency brake pedal on the driver's side and, on the passenger side, below the glove box, where it sweeps back into the area where the lower a/c ducts are located. I can tell there was some old glue between the vinyl and the dash because I can feel the bumps with my fingers. It's only noticeable to me, since most people wouldn't look at the bottom edge of the dashboard...and the car is 17.5 years old. A few questions: How do I reattach the vinyl that is beginning to separate? What is the name of the type of adhesive that is used? Where do I get it? Any tips on the p…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
Well I have a 2000 dodge intrepid and it wouldn't crank after I had a couple beers up at hooters and after that I decided it was a good time to take 5 minutes to blaze it up because I was pissed then I just started to look for a potential person that could jump me got it jumped runs great drove home now at home i restarted it 5 times in a row and I am running everything i possibly can got everything on works great this is the second time its happened any ideas?? Also when the battery died it was completely dead all together enough to light up the dash but then i would touch the brake petal and the whole car would go black with some trippy clicking noises.
Last reply by Buickfosure, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
Yup, now it's the Shadow's turn to have something go wrong with it, complete all 3 cars having something brake. Starter's bad...car turns over-ish but won't start...tried jumping it but nothing, plus the battery is new ...repeated tests lead to smoke coming from said starter. It goes to the shop tomorrow. Also, there metal pieces bolted onto each sde of the car in the shape of where the rocker panels meats the rear wheel well...because underneath is rusty. Well it looks like the rust ate through the remaining metal underneath because I found the sheet metal that was bolted n on the ground...poor car is so rusty.
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
thinking it has to be a relay.... try to start it... after about 1/2 sec after keeping the key on "start" it kicks in, act's like a dead battery during that 1/2 second, but nothing unusual happens. does this sound likely? 99monte 143k miles would my assumption be right, and any help how find the relay? I think it might be under my hood in the "fuse/relay area" in front of my coolant reservoir.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 2k views
So now that we are bought out by DELL, all our new hardware is of course DELL and I have to say, I love the Dell u3415w monitors. http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/210-adtr?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=210-ADTR We get dual display for our work and so this is really cool. Cannot wait till I get to replace my lenovo laptop and monitors with a new XPS workstation laptop and dual screens. Each monitor does 3440 x 1440 with 1.07 billion colors. Sweet
Last reply by A Horse With No Name, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 10 replies
- 2k views
My dad has been driving my mom's 2003 L200 while she's in England, the Sebring is sitting in storage somewhere, hopefully being stolen. Last night he was over here with some other family members and my car was parked in so I took the L to the store to pick a few things up. It started to die on the road, just losing speed, and the dash lights dimmed for a minute, then it got back to normal. When I stopped at a red light, it died and wouldn't start. Putting the key in the run position led to the dash lights flickering and all of the idiot lights flipping out. Putting it in ACC led the dash lights to sync with the hazard lights. The transmission wouldn't shift out of p…
Last reply by Satty, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
Alright, 1977 Monte Carlo. engine is in alright shape. 2 barrel carb. cleaned carb, filter, plugs, wires, etc. Now, when in nutural or park, and you rev the car, its fine, no bog no stall. But when I am driving, and I punch the gas it sometimes dies out. Its only when say I try to spin the tires, so basically take off from a slow, or dead stop. What do you all think ? Thanks.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
I was wondering about th low-pitched whiny-whistly noise that diesels make. What causes it? Even the littl VW TDIs make the noise.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
-
- 6 replies
- 2k views
I got through washing and waxing my car this morning to find a ding, slightly smaller than a dime or even a shirt button and not deep at all, on the front of my hood. I've no idea how it got there, but the paint is all there so I doubt it's from road debris. Anyway, it's in a spot on the hood where there's double metal (near the latch/release), so the traditional PDR method of working it out from behind is impossible. Do any of these "glue on suction cup" ding removers (like the Ding King, et. al) actually work, and is it something I can pull off myself without making it worse? Is it even fixable at all without filler and respraying the paint. I'm willing to bring it to a…
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
- 2 replies
- 1.6k views
All right, from what I've read on here, and elsewhere, Direct Injection is going to be the new fuel delivery system on a lot of vehicles. Just a few questions about it. When I think of direct injection, I think of diesel engines with an electric supply pump from the tank, then an engine driven Fuel Injection Pump that boosts the fuel pressure up insanely, finally ending in a fuel injector that shoots the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. Is that how a gasoline-burning DI vehicle works also? And if it does, then how does the fuel mix with the air and become atomized? Another thing, wouldn't that do harm to the injector since its exposed directly to combustion…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
We just revised and edited our installation instructions for window tint. These instructions are not just for our films but are intended to be used by anyone who wants to do their own tint. The instructions cover side windows and rear windshield cleaning, prep and installation but not front visor installations. We will be adding another section on that soon. Please check it out and let me know if there is anything you think needs clarifying or correction: http://www.rvinyl.com/Window-Tint-Installation-Instructions.html
Last reply by Rvinyl.com, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 1.4k views
We just revised and edited our installation instructions for window tint. These instructions are not just for our films but are intended to be used by anyone who wants to do their own tint. The instructions cover side windows and rear windshield cleaning, prep and installation but not front visor installations. We will be adding another section on that soon. Please check it out and let me know if there is anything you think needs clarifying or correction: http://www.rvinyl.com/Window-Tint-Installation-Instructions.html
Last reply by Rvinyl.com, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
My 2000 Buick Regal LS has Dual Zone Climate Control, however, recently the system stopped working properly. When I have the A/C on in the regular mode only heat comes out. When the Dual mode is on, only the passenger side is cold, and again the driver's side comes out hot. Does anybody know what is going on with my car and ,if possible, how to fix it? I just got off my warantee so I'd prefer to know what's wrong before I pay somebody to fix if its beyond my ability to fix it. Well, any and all suggestons will be appreciated.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 11 replies
- 1.7k views
Okay, 1994 Century. The cupholder in the armrest is broken. I threw it out a while back. Since I've become an avid tea drinker in the morning and putting it in a travel mug, I'm tired of holding beverages while I drive anywhere. I found this, a cupholder to replace the one in the armrest. The guy advertises it for a Buick LeSabre/Park Ave, some Caddy and Olds too, but said it may work in other models. How can I find out if this will work in mine? Was it a standard cupholder mechanism used in GM armrests? eBay Cupholder Link Thingy Anyone know?
Last reply by Paolino, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
I already have a trailer for towing cars... however, it weighs a ton... at least... and its huge. So its a fine towing setup when its hooked up behind the F450HD dump truck or "Dad's" overbuilt work van. Unfortunately, the van and the F450HD are rarely registered, gets lousy MPG, are expensive to maintain and I cannot store either and the trailer at my primary or secondary residence. If something was to break down and _IF_ it was road-ready, I'd be doing an extra 60 mile round trip, at the least, to pick up the tow rig before retrieving a broken car. I really want to get back to using a smaller dual-purpose tow vehicle and a lighter trailer for emergency tows. I was …
Last reply by SAmadei, -
-
- 2 replies
- 2.2k views
So, it may sound like something that you'd find at the auto repair place between the muffler bearings and turn signal fluid... but it seems there is some nasty fluid in some rear view mirrors. Apparently, GM auto-dimming mirrors (and some other makes that use the same supplier) have a caustic substance in the mirror... and after a number of years and/or sufficient heat... they can explode or leak. How did I find out? Well, the '99 Grand Prix after spending a lifetime in the northeast, has started to leak once it has been in the hot Cali sun. Just driving along, the car made some pops... and the mirror fogged up and started to leak. After some research, it turns out the…
Last reply by ocnblu, -
- 1 follower
- 39 replies
- 4.6k views
Article from Yahoo that makes GM seem almost cutting edge.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
I posted this on a Mopar forum but haven't gotten a response. Maybe someone here knows the trick. Basically i want to swap out my black plastic door handles for chrome ones. I've wanted to for a while, but never knew how to do it. I'm told that the pin has to be removed to do this, but don't know how to remove said pin.
Last reply by Intrepidation, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
Does anyone know how to remove the exterior door handles on the S-series?
Last reply by Ravenfreak13, -
- 1 reply
- 1.5k views
I figured I would tap the minds of some of the most automotively intelligent people I know for this. I am trying to help my brother find a pair of doors for his 78 T/A that he's in the process of restoring. Would anyone be able to help me point him somewhere? He said he's looked on e-bay and carparts.com and all he can find are the skins. He needs the whole door - frame and all. I appreciate any help you could give me.
Last reply by AAS, -
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
If you have an automatic transmission and you are stopped and about to race someone in a drag, what gear should you start off in? Overdrive, drive, 2, or 1? Also just please explain why that's the case, thanks in advance
Last reply by balthazar, -
- 19 replies
- 6.2k views
This is not exactly auto related, but I can see some instances where you might want it. I need to make some 7/16ths square holes in some 1/4 steel for carriage bolts on a project I am working on. My current idea was to drill 7/16th holes then use some kind of angled abrasive to notch the corners, but considering I need to do 6-10 of these holes, that could take some serious time. Plus I am no finding abrasives that will really suit my needs. I'm seeing different kinds of square punches online, but I assume these need a 100 ton press or something, and most do not list what thickness they will punch through. If anyone has a good idea, let me know. My backup plan is to…
Last reply by 67impss, -
- 6 replies
- 1.7k views
Hello, everyone! My 1988 K car's timing belt snapped a few days ago with the car at 104,000 miles. Took it in to have it replaced. (Thank goodness the old 2.2/2.5's are non-interference!) I picked up the car yesterday and it idles fine, but is hesistant, shuddery, and generally non responsive. What would be the most likely culprit here? I plan on taking it back to have it looked at because it is barely drivable as compared to pre-belt break.
Last reply by ocnblu, -
-
- Editor-in-Chief
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
I have a 04 sierra, 5.3 automatic that has a clunk in the driveline. This noise occurs when pulling out from a stop. It also occurs when shifting into and out of second gear. This is also louder , like a clang when downshifting into second under a load when I am towing. My dealer has been no help, can you help me?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
99 monte carlo, the switch is good, it gets power, but the motor won't budge. looking for info on how to tackle it.... things to check, maybe a how to best take it apart if need be. thanks, could it move "past it limits"? how would i check that, or how could i bring it back inside it's limits?
Last reply by SAmadei, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 1.8k views
Not that I have any near-future plans for taking on such a task, but how difficult is it to convert drum brakes to disk brakes? For example, I know th `69 Barracuda has all drums and they suck.
Last reply by rkmdogs, -
If a engine has E85 capability, what changes are needed to the engine? Is there more hoses, solenoids, condensers, etc to further fill up the engine compartment?
Last reply by scharmer05, -
- 10 replies
- 5.8k views
I have a 2006 Pontiac G5 with the 2.4 VVT Ecotec. At about 1500kms, I started to get a startup noise that sounds eerily like piston slap from a GM V6 or V8. I wasn't aware that the Ecotec also suffered from this. Anyone else have this misfortune on the Ecotec?
Last reply by daves87rs, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
I have an '03 GMC Sierra and I wanna buy an ECU tuner to give me some extra pulling power. What do ya'll recommend? I was told a Jet Stage 1 module would not even be noticable. Anyone tried it? What about the Hypertech or some of the others?
Last reply by daves87rs, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
Okay, so I got home and my dad asked me to go online and try to figure this out... A guy at my dad's work had the battery in his Protege die. A couple guys went out there and replaced the battery and the + and - "accidentally" touched together... Well, they checked the fuses inside and under the hood and none of them were bad. However the radio, lights, and keyless entry aren't working now. Any idea what blew? Don't most radios have a fuse in the back of them or somewhere just in case? I think they might need to check that, too, if there is one...
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 10 replies
- 4.9k views
A coworker of mine asked me if I knew anything about Caprices and electrical problems. I told him that I'm no mechanic, but know plenty of people online that I could ask (um, that means you guys!). He has a 1991 Chevy Caprice with the 305 V8. He was given this car by his uncle about 7 years ago. When his uncle owned it, right before giving it away, the radio was replaced due to being shorted out. John, my coworker, had to replace the radio again about two years after he got it. The first indication of an electrical problem (other than the shorting of the radio) was that the door locks would hum & vibrate - until he turned the car off. The latest issue he has is…
Last reply by NOS2006, -
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
Hey guys, I was always kinda curious to know exactly where the engines and tranmissions in my rides are from. I mean I know that the Impala was put together by the nice people up in Oshawa, and my truck was built in Atlanta, but what kind of information would I need to know where the transmission and engine were produced. I'm fairly certain that they weren't built on site, but I guess I could be wrong. If anyone happens to know, then I'd love to see an answer.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
- 0 replies
- 1.4k views
my 99 M.C. w/ the 3.1L (now w/ about 130K) started this problem last winter....after the car has warmed-up to the normal temp it gets to on the temp gauge, it can sometimes unlock (or not lock in in the first place) the tourque converter in overdrive....sometimes in 3rd too. going 55mph i can rev the engine between about 1500rmp to 2500rpm w/o an upshift or a big change in throtle..... kinda like if it was almost in nuetral but still moving the car. would this be the same thing as if going 55 also, and sometimes the engine drops to near idle speed instead of having engine drag closer to ~ 1400rpm. these things seem to only happen in cool and cold weather, hence it&…
Last reply by loki, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 1.7k views
This may potentially be a silly question, but what is the name of the highlighted part of my engine? Because whatever it is, oil is leaking out of it where it attatches to the block. Also, would anyone know what would cause an alternator to make a loud screechy-whirring noise when the engine first starts up? Mine makes a terrible noise, but after the engine's been running for a little while, it quiets down a bit. Dad squirted some WD-40 into it, which also helped quiet the noise, but he thinks I may be due for a replacement. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker,
