Tech Section
574 topics in this forum
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I'm thinking about putting a new transmission in my '73. The most likely candidate is a Super T-10 Here's the issue: Currently, I'm running the 406, a Turbo 350 transmission (with a shift kit), a 3:73 posi-trac and 17 inch wheels (Not sure on the tire size -- can you tell I haven't messed with my Camaros in a while? LOL) Anyway, the tranny was rebuilt probably 11-12 years ago out of necessitiy, back when the car had the stock rear end and an old, weak 350. After the rebuild, it was a daily driver for about 4 years, then it was retired to semi-daily, and recently, super duper garage queen. Obviously, I've upgraded around the tranny and it has become the weakest link. It…
Last reply by FUTURE_OF_GM, -
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I just purchased a 2006 Lucerne CXL with everything (ALMOST)! I have the 6 disk CD player but no XM radio. Is it a possibility that GM might have had the foresight to make this radio upgradable? It has the CAT button for XM radio; when you press it, states XM feature. Can you purchase some type of module to upgrade it to XM without all the add on crap? I am sure it is not, but it would be a great feature for those of us who purchase off the lot and then want to upgrade the radio in the dash to XM because the dealer was not bright enough to order XM on it. If anyone has a recommendation without all the add on's I would appreciate it tremendously. It has the antenna …
Last reply by CARBIZ, -
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I posted this on a Mopar forum but haven't gotten a response. Maybe someone here knows the trick. Basically i want to swap out my black plastic door handles for chrome ones. I've wanted to for a while, but never knew how to do it. I'm told that the pin has to be removed to do this, but don't know how to remove said pin.
Last reply by Intrepidation, -
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How hard is it to switch a 4th gen V6 F Body from autotrajic to row your own? Think we all know where this is going... Also...how weak are the rear ends on these cars? What other common failure points do they have? Chris
Last reply by Z-06, -
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So, recently I have been needing to jump the Toronado if I let it sit more than a few days. Last night, in anticipation of a road trip this morning, I put the battery on the charger for about 4 hours. This morning, it fired right up, no trouble. I head out on my road trip, 250 miles total. I had my headlights on for most of the trip due to rain. During the trip I made at least 3 stops where the engine was shut off. Each time, on restart, she fired up like she just rolled off the line at Linden NJ. I arrived at my destination around 1 pm. At 4:30pm, I run out for a quick errand, no more than 5 miles each way No problems starting at either of my stops. I pull …
Last reply by G. David Felt, -
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This may potentially be a silly question, but what is the name of the highlighted part of my engine? Because whatever it is, oil is leaking out of it where it attatches to the block. Also, would anyone know what would cause an alternator to make a loud screechy-whirring noise when the engine first starts up? Mine makes a terrible noise, but after the engine's been running for a little while, it quiets down a bit. Dad squirted some WD-40 into it, which also helped quiet the noise, but he thinks I may be due for a replacement. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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When the Lt1 first came out, a big deal was made about the flow direction of the coolant, from the top, or heads on down, as an improvement in engine cooling system technology, and adding to the longevity of an engine. Now, I recently read that the LS1 & LS2 were reverted back to the old system, of coolant flow from the bottom of the engine up and out thru the heads. My question is, is this correct, and if so, why? What was the technical reasons for reverting back? The explanations for going to the heads first system made a lot of sense, and I have not heard anything about why this methodology was dropped, if in fact it was dropped. If it wasn't, then why is t…
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
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^^^ She is not running cold any more. The AC seems hotter than hot FL weather. As far as the documentations show, the AC system is a closed one and before adding freon one has to make sure that there are no apparent leaks. Any quick way to fix the AC hotness without breaking the bank?
Last reply by SAmadei, -
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We have a 2000 Buick Century that has 36,000 miles. A couple of years ago we started using synthetic oil in it. The other day we had to have some repairs done and the dealer installed regular oil in the crankcase. We had done a synthetic change 2 months ago. When advised that the wrong oil was placed into the crankcase, the service advisor maintained that it would not do any harm to the engine. Will it?>>>>>>>>
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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Okay, I'm getting tired of this. It looks like the 3rd car it going to need tires..not because of milage, but because of of rot. And since I just replaced TWO full sets of tires already (big $$), I've had to look at my options... While I'm not usually a fan of private tires...I looked at a set of National Finalist (60 bucks each, mounted on all) I was actually impressed by them...they reminded me of Cooper tires...50k warranty... I've heard all the horror stories of those "cheap" tires....but my coworkers are running Republic, and Sunny tires, with no issues at all..... And I take good care of my tires, and because of my wide size ( 195/70/14), there really is…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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I have a 03 Silverado with Autotrac and the front axles will not engauge in auto 4x4, 4hi, or 4lo. I can hear the tranfer case shift, and it does sound much louder then my friends Silverados, so not sure if I should be able to hear it that loud. I do have 92,000 miles on this rig. Any thoughts or know problems with this system? I did un-hook the battery and hook it back up, plus check the 4x4 fuse under the hood. I hope it is nothing expensive.
Last reply by Silverado03, -
Alright I was doing an oil change in my G6 yesterday and I got sidetracked and then i brought the car down and used my remote and started the car from inside my house i came outside to a whole bunch of pings and dings and realizeing what I did shut off the engine. I added oil and am waiting to start it but what would be the best thing to do now start it or would it hurt it. I'm on a lease so I'm kinda not knowing what to do help me...
Last reply by Mike The Canadian, -
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Hi: When renting cars, Bluetooth and advanced audio systems enable me to play my own music. In my car, I never did because I never looked into it. Buick and Pontiac did not have the MP3 connector in my year, while Chevy did. Okay, so I ask the guy in the electronic department at a (ahem) big box store how to address this and he tells me about an item that goes into your cigarette lighter and might be called an FM transmitter. That's because it works on one FM frequency reserved for this task. Questions: 1. What is this thing called and does it work well? Any features to specifically look for on one I could buy? 2. Does it pull your songs…
Last reply by frogger, -
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So I got the car on Friday. It was a one owner, kept in garage, regular service....etc. 120 K Miles. Last night, driving home from work , I was taking the freeway. I got it up to 70 and was cruising on home. Slowed down to 60 when I hit some traffic and I just coasted there when I noticed a slight jerk. I looked over at the RPM's to see what was going on and went back to 60. What I noticed is when I get it right at 60 and let it coast there at 2K RPM, It will jerk ever so slightly, and the RPM's will jump. Not constant, just intermittent. It does it when going up hills as well, a little more constant. I can't describe it any better. I drove it out last night again tr…
Last reply by Oracle of Delphi, -
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A few days ago, during normal driving, while stopped at an intersection, the transmission suddenly felt disconnected, and as I coasted out of that intersection, I couldn't find any gear to propel the car. Once I stopped coasting and put it in park, the car simply wouldn't connect and move. Put it back in park, got out and there was a puddle of fluid on the ground. Tranny showed no signs of being on its way out before this sudden incident (I know this after struggling for months with the previous gearbox in this car before replacing it). A friend said it might be a blown hose or fluid line. Could this this true, and if so, is it an easy, relatively inexpensive fix?
Last reply by Croc, -
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I haven't needed to use them yet, but the hazard lights on my LeSabre dont work. The turn signals work just fine, the hazards, not so much. I assume its a relay issue (similar problems with my old '87 Dakota) but I'm not sure. Everything else electrical works just fine.
Last reply by CMG, -
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Ok, This is interesting.... My wagon has heat..when it wants... I turn the heat on-nothing comes out. Pop the hook-tap the fan-instant heat. Is something just stuck in there? Or could it be something more?
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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A friend of mine has a mishap in his '98 LeSabre yesterday. He hit one of those rectangular yellow reflectors you see along the side of the road with the right-hand mirror, which only scraped the paint a little bit, but the glass cracked and a strip of it fell off in the middle. The glass is also not supported at the top anymore, so it's like it's stuck pointing down. I wouldn't call myself a mechanic, but I can even tell that he needs a new mirror. So, the question is, does anyone know how to remove the mirror off of a '90s H-body? It's not power-adjustable and I don't believe it's heated, which makes me think it would just pop out if you stuck a thin tool between it a…
Last reply by Robert Hall, -
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I have a 2011 Dodge Charger that I bought in September. Since September, I have had to put 3 batteries in my key fob for the push button start to work. Any idea what would cause the battery to go dead so quickly? Should I buy a battery from Chrysler instead of Target? Or will that not make any difference? I know a few of you on here have Chargers, do you have the same problem?
Last reply by Blake Noble, -
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It seems to me that Mazda could be in a unique position in the world of hybrids. Some points to consider: 1. It's entirely plausible to have a car who's only means of propulsion is via electric motors; Tesla and the Electric Mini have proven that. 2. Generators work their best at a consistent, generally high, RPM. 3. Rotary engines are their most efficient at a high rpm. 4. Rotary engines are very smooth running. What I'm suggesting here is mating a small displacement rotary engine, probably less than 1 litre, to a generator to charge the batteries. Batteries in turn run the electric motors <in the wheels like with the Electric Mini> of moderate power. …
Last reply by Cory Wolfe, -
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Basically, I need to figure out whether or not the Prizm was a base or LSi model. The insurance company is being anal retentive ass monkeys. They say that they got their $1,500 value basing it off the car being a base model because they couldn't find out whether it was an LSi or not. The paperwork I sent them had 4 Prizms for sale, 2 Lsi 2 base models, and two NADA printouts...one of the value of an LSi and one of the base model. The difference is $100 dollars... $2,325 VS $2,425...but they're idiots...how dumb you ask? Today the woman asked if I had a "5 speed manual or a standard transmission?" I tried calling a few dealers to find out and they couldn't...the only thi…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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So...any of you vintage ironheads want to educate a fuel injection guy a little on how to rebuild a carb?
Last reply by Flybrian, -
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OK, Just a bit confused here.. I'm looking to get a Map sensor for my beater car...(93 Cavy, 3.1) I priced one at Napa Auto parts....90 bucks... One at Murray's Auto Parts.....30 bucks... Why the feaking huge price difference? :huh: I know I should buy the Napa one (better made, I think)...but this car is just a beater with well over 100k miles on it. I'll be happy if I can get another 15-30k miles on it. :) (that, and it is started to rust pretty good) How long to you think that 30 buck part would last? I take good care of my cars, and I am pretty easy on my beater (grandpa-like driving) What do you guys think?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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So it seems just as I get the Mustang running decent again; no miss and so far neither a wheel nor a caliper has flown off, it's the Cavalier's turn. Today I was 'toolin' down the road and all of the sudden the "No Trac" light comes on and I have a loss of power. I pull off to the side of the road (in the ghetto, no less) and the car dies. First thing I do is lock my new Canon in the trunk and look for a weapon.... Oh wait, I actually did that, but that's the wrong story. First thing I notice is this godawful smell of sulfur. My first thought is a battery issue or a cat converter issue. I get out and check the battery, since it would be a quick fix. It's not hot (I was w…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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that this is easy to replace... Since it looks like the wagon is going to stick around a while...I'm debating whether I should reaplace the MAF soon... It should fix the idle and the pick up issue... Those who have worked on the 3.1s...how easy it is to do? Is it something I can do-or should I get a bit of help?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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So the Grand Marquis needs brake lines and the master cylinder seal. I've never done this before. How hard is it to replace lines? I'm sure it varies from vehicle to vehicle, but a general idea of what to do and the difficulty involved would be helpful.
Last reply by SAmadei, -
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Not that I have any near-future plans for taking on such a task, but how difficult is it to convert drum brakes to disk brakes? For example, I know th `69 Barracuda has all drums and they suck.
Last reply by rkmdogs, -
Malibu leaking water pumps
by Guest MikeBike- 7 replies
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I own a '99 Chev Malibu (2.4L DOHC) LH9 engine) with 100,000 km (60,000 miles) on the clock and am the original owner. I'm now on my 3rd water pump (1st was a GM, 2nd an OEM, 3rd is now a GM). The part is only $190 but the labor is always around $800 because it's OHC and the timing chain plus the tensioner must come off in order to get the old pump out. I dumped the GM "pink" DexCool antifreeze a long time ago at the mechanic's suggestion and have used good old Prestone green ever since. I run the car on Castrol Syncrude 5W/30 with very regular oil changes and the engine runs like a dream, except for the coolant leaks out the weep hole on the water pump. Are the leak…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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Well... Any ideas? The car picked up a bad miss in February of this year and I put replacement platinum plugs in. That cured the miss for the most part (it has always had a very slight miss at 14-1500 RPM -- Apparently that is a characteristic of some of the 4.6L cars and something that a lot of people 'live with') Round about May, the ugly miss came back. I added some fuel system cleaner thinking that it couldn't hurt and the miss went away. This weekend, I've been moving so the car has been racking up a lot of interstate miles. Sure enough, today I was getting of the interstate and it's like someone flipped a switch. I added more fuel system cleaner (again; it can't…
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
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thinking it has to be a relay.... try to start it... after about 1/2 sec after keeping the key on "start" it kicks in, act's like a dead battery during that 1/2 second, but nothing unusual happens. does this sound likely? 99monte 143k miles would my assumption be right, and any help how find the relay? I think it might be under my hood in the "fuse/relay area" in front of my coolant reservoir.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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so i just tore apart my intake to get to the thermostat thinking it was stuck open... but i put it in a boiling bath and it opens and closes just fine. i don't think we have an infrared thermometer to test it, but the gauge in the IP goes from 100 - 260, it never goes above ~1/4 the way. i'm guessing @140 - 150. what's the chance the temp gauge is wrong? the heater gets warm fairly fast in not ass cold weather, <20 degrees. any ideas would be appreciated, till then i'm thinking of running cleaner and water through the system, not supposed to get below freezing in the next 10 days... could this be associated with my fuel gauge problem with it almost never being …
Last reply by loki, -
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The gas gauge in the wagon hasn't ever worked, and I really want to fix it before I drive the car again. The number one suspect , of course, is the fuel tank sending unit. They are available for every bodystyle of '73-'77 Chevelle/El Camino.... except the wagon. Let's hope it's a bad wire...
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
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So... I've been working on a lot of brake lines... basically, I have two cars which have required nearly complete brake line replacements. Unfortunately, in order to adapt and fit new lines in a car without taking it completely apart, you use unions... and in retrospect, I seem to have gotten some unions that do not seal well... so I've had several cycles of bleed brakes - observe leak - take apart everything and tighten fitting - rinse and repeat. In any case, I hate doing any work to the car that I cannot do solo... and the one man bleeding solutions out there just suck. This got me to thinking... How do manufacturers "install" brake fluid? Its obvious that GM is no…
Last reply by SAmadei, -
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So I found this awesome white '94 Z28 with ~88,000 miles on it, and all I'm waiting for is the finance guys to tell me where to sign. But, I'm a little concerned about fuel economy. I'm going to assume that the MPG on a 12-year-old V8 aren't going to be great, and I can accept that. My question is are there any ways that I can mechanically change the 5.7 (LT1?) that will increase my fuel economy? I've developed a pretty economical driving technique by driving my parents' Tahoe, XC90, and S80 T6 over the years, so I'm looking for something that will help post some worthwhile gains combined with that. Thanks.
Last reply by NOS2006, -
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So I went to start the Prizm today. The key turned into the first position, but wouldn't go any further. Attempts to get it to turn further with all 4 keys did nothing. At one point it wouldn't turn at all, now it's back to going to Accessory, but not any further. No idea what's wrong. I used it last night with no problem... Is it possibly due to the cold? Or is the ignition junk and has to be replaced? I hope the former but suspect the latter. v_v
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
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We do a lot of HVAC work, resteraunt repair work, and Electrical work for a chain of truck stops. I've noticed a lot of truckers love the Lucas stuff. Lots of them swear by it. Anyone tried it? I'm trying it in the wife's car. Chris
Last reply by 67impss, -
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As you may know, my engine conversion went well besides the junk radiator nearly destroying everything. Managed to get the gunk out of the oil, it checks clear every time now. However it's still in the cooling system. The day it happened a garden hose was used for 2 hours to get it out, but while a lot it out, there's still goop showing up. Is there a cleaner to get this out? Or can a shop get it out? Monday I may just take it down and see, but preemptive advice would be appreciated. Once this is taken care of and I replace the plenum, I should be all set, but it just sucks that a $h!ty radiator caused this unnecessary mess. Next time I'm buying …
Last reply by Intrepidation, -
OK, now it's warm enough to get to work on this thing. Tell me as much as possible about the idle air control valve. I'm pretty darn sure this what it is, though it's tough to get a reading on it, because a few times it tells me different parts..... I'm replacing the IAC, fuel filter, PCV....... I'm hoping this will stop the rough idle (much worse in warm weather/warming up a while), SUV gas milage (it's back), and the lack of pick-up that it has...and the fact that changing speeds (mostly slowing down) throws the check engine light on.... If this doesn't work, I'm going to assume it might be something worse....
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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What's the purpose of the chin spoiler on the Equinox? Does the Equinox need the spoiler for downforce at high speeds? It can't be an air dam because the grill of the Nox is more than big enough for air to cool the radiator. To me, it looks like it is just a drag on the air as it flows around the spoiler. This can be said for a lot of vehicles on the road. So, apparently there is a reason for it, but what?
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
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I think my air filter is about ready to be cleaned. I believe it is washable because its the aftermarket cone filter kind. So is there any special way to clean these or can I just use good ol' soap and water? Also, I've seen some filters that say they are "oilable" or something like that. I'm not use if mine is or not but what does that mean and does it hurt if I don't do it?
Last reply by rkmdogs, -
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I hadn't driven the Regal for almost 3 weeks because I was on vacation. In a nutshell, over the last few days, the sound coming from the engine sounds kind of "wheezy" or "buzzy." It is a 1992 vintage 3800 V6 with 258,200 miles. It's NOT a clackety/clack noise at all. What it is - it increases with the rpms of the engine What it is not - it is not related to the gears, since it does it in park and neutral A few thoughts: Could it be in the pulley system? A water pump - though these seem to chirp more, having replaced one many moons ago? Also, no temperature change and no coolant drip. A power steering pump? A problem in the compressor? I've used the A/C a…
Last reply by SAmadei, -
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If I start my car and let it warm up for 2 min in the cold weather it slips very bad. I have to rev it up to 4000 rpm just to get the car to move But if i start my car and take off right away. I dont get the transmission slipping problem. I did have the transmission fluid change but not the filter. its a 99 malibu with a 2.4 thanks
Last reply by fightingbee, -
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I just have a few quick questions in regards to changing a coil pack. What exactly is involved in changing one? I have a missfire on cylinder 6 on my series 1 3800 SC motor. Should I change all three and the plugs and wires and what do I have to do to change the coil pack itself? What am I looking at cost wise? I haven't been able to drive my Riv in a week now due to this, and with no other form of transportation at this time, I really need to get this thing fixed. Lastly what tools will I need? Thanks in advance guys.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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At nearly a quarter million miles, I will be buying a set of 4 new tires for my Regal W-body coupe. It is currently on its 3rd pair of struts. I will replace the front struts. They don't cost that much. The rears are a different story. They are considerably more expensive and I've never figured out why. Currently, when you push down on the rear, it's as firm as when they were new (about 60,000 miles ago) and there is zero bounce. However, on the right rear side, I think the bearing plate has gone south because when you go over a bump in a diagonal fashion, you get a nice clanking sound. Also, the rubber boot around the cartridge has a tear. Two questions: 1. …
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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We have a 1995 Buick Century with the 3100 V6 (160k), which recently developed a stalling problem. The problem happens when the engine is warm (although I don't know if engine temp has anything to do with it). Irrespective of engine or vehicle speed, the motor simply cuts out. No warning. No hesitation. No stumbling. And then it takes two or three attempts to restart the vehicle, after which, the engine performs flawlessly. There are no codes in the computer, and my mechanic can't find anything. I'm baffled... I'll be away from my PC for most of the weekend, but appreciate any suggestions made in my absence. Thanks for your help!
Last reply by Paolino, -
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what is the diffrences if it flashes or it stays on for the first time today my check engine light flashed like 2 min then it went off and came back on but it did something and now my truck seems faster i know the light stays on because i have no o2 sensors hooked up so it goes to safe fuel mode but y would it flash all the sudden?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
the nut i circled is right by the starter for orientation, also shown is the oil pan and trans pan i jacked up the car, from the front, and coolant streamed out, mostly in the area the red "box" is for a second or 2 and then almost stopped. so it's either coming from the back end of the engine, ?freeze plugs?, or from the left (rear facing) side of the engine, ?head gasket?...? any ideas?
Last reply by loki, -
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My roommate has a 2005 Grand Am, less then 8,000 miles because he hardly drives anywhere. His heater control is broken. We called the local Pontiac dealer to get a Saturday appointment because he needs his car on the weekdays. They told him they don't do any warrenty work on the weekends. This is a major, every brand but chevy, GM dealer. Anyone encounter this before?
Last reply by Newbiewar, -
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So since December the light for the engine temp gauge in the Intrepid has been out...I think. It's dimmer than teh other lights but there's enough glow that it's still readable at night. A month ago or so part of the tach (the right side) went dim. I've never pulled a gauge cluster part before...is it individual light bulbs or what? I'd like to think they're just blow bulbs...but the strange thing is that sometimes the temp gauge will light up normally...so I dunno. I wanna take it to the dealer tomorrow and have it looked at...I hope it's not that expensive. It's not a major issue since I can read all the gauges fine at night...it's just an annoyance. The trunk light h…
Last reply by Buickfosure, -
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We have an 06 Pontiac Wave and for the past couple of months, the alarm has been going off. There is nothing around to give it a reason (no airplanes, loud noises,people, whatever). Is there a resolve? Thank you Bill
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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Hi All, I have a 2001 Saab 9-5 with which I change rims in the winter and summer. I've been noticing a more and more intrusive vibration coming from the front wheels, I believe the left one. It makes a noise when going above a certain speed, and on certain road surfaces I can feel a wobble in the steering wheel. Also, the car wants to pull slightly to the left on the highway, and when I go around a left hand turn on the highway both the noise and the steering wheel vibration go away. It's not a problem with the rim or the tire as I have changed these. What could be causing this?
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
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Ok, so I was getting something out of the back seat whilst simultaneously filling out a withdrawal slip in the bank drive-thru. I had the pen in my hand, reached into the back seat and ended up with a 2-inch long ink mark on the headliner. Anyone have any advice on getting it out?
Last reply by 91z4me, -
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The '98 Tahoe I bought came with one of these and I hate it! Lots of questions and no manual to answer them for this non-intuitive thing. But the main thing I want to know is how to turn off the maddening moving display! That thing is always in my peripheral vision and makes me nuts while driving. I'll eventually locate a manual for the rest of the crap, but I'd love a shortcut to eliminate the moving display and replace it with a static one. And, if anyone knows how to eliminate the bleeps when you shut -off the ignition that would be great too. This thing is very close to being thrown against a wall - really wish that the PO had left the stock unit in place!
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
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I have an 89' cavalier 2.0 that I race at the local speedway and I need more hp. I can't use a turbo so what can I do to the most hp possible out of this engine?
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
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I'm buying winter tires for the Cobalt this winter (Michelin X-Ice). I'm trying to decide what to do for rims. I was initially going to buy steel rims to mount the snow tires on so I could put them on and off myself. The salesman told me that since I had the OE rims on there, there was really no point in buying steel rims. Only people with expensive aftermarket rims really need them. I don't think he was trying to screw me, since he knew I was just buying the tires there and not going there to have them taken on/off. He also said that the tires would need to be balanced after installation and removal whether they were on steel rims or my original ones. I don't really un…
Last reply by I hope GMRULES again, -
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Within the last week, the wife and I noticed that the Atlas I-6 engine in our 2005 GMC Envoy is creating a whining sound when the engine is running and gets louder when you press down on the gas pedal. Anyone familiar with this issue? I plan to take it to the dealership today or tomorrow for them to hear it and schedule an appointment to get it fixed. I have not heard this sound on any other Envoy (my sister has an '05 XL with the I-6, and several of my coworkers have Envoys too). I appreciate any assistance with this, so I don't look like a loser at the dealership's Service Department!!!
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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...though I'm leaning more toward me. On the Balt's last fill up, I might have have put a bit too much gas in her. (never had this issue in any other car) Now things are a bit screwed up. Even when It's full, it only shows 3/4. It also messed up the MPG and miles till empty too. I thought it might have fixed itself after gas today, but no such luck. Anybody else have this issue? I'm debating about unplugging the battery to reset it (hopefully), but I'm not sure....
Last reply by the_yellow_dart, -
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Cliffnotes version: What happens if you go from using synthetic blend motor oil to conventional? Full-fat: I took my car to the dealership yesterday to get some work done (mistake 1). Back when I had the recall work for the engine fire concern on the 3.8L V6, I took my Intrigue up to the local Chevrolet-Buick-Pontiac-GMC-Isuzu dealer to have it taken care of. Everything went fine, I got my car back and was happy as a clam that I wouldn't find it and/or myself engulfed in flames one day. To further make me happier, I received in the mail around the beginning of July/end of June a letter from the dealer thanking me for choosing them to work on my car. Included in this l…
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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So I can finally get around to buying the hardware to do my rear brakes. I'm going with Wagner BD125306 rotors, but I'm not sure what to go with for pads still. Apparently Intrepids without ABS came with organic pads while ABS Intrepids came with semi-metallic, but the pads are interchangeable. The choices are: Wagner PD759 ThermoQuiet Non-Asbestos Organic Disc Brake Pad Set: $30.89 Wagner MX782 ThermoQuiet Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set: $35.46 Akebono ACT782 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set - $61.99 I've heard good things about both ThermoQuiets and Akebonos. I can get the ThermoQuiets for a really good deal on Amazon, and I can get an employ…
Last reply by Intrepidation, -
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I'm having an issue with the "beater" (aka the Cobalt).. I've been doing updates on the car.....and some things to improve the gas milage... I got it up from 15 to a bit over 23 now. :sign0200: The fuel system cleaning and the air filter change (along with some other stuff) is helping...but in city driving the last few days, it seems going through gas again.. The one thing I haven't changed yet is the fuel filter yet....I wonder if that is really hurting my MPGs that much? I know it is due for one (has 32k now), but it would surprise me if the fuel filter is in that bad of shape. Then again, the previous owner was a bit rough on the car..... I'm planning …
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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It is... Anyways, I'm not even sure what I'm looking for here, but I'm just wondering about a few things. The first of which is that it is starting to take longer for it to start. Before, I would turn the key and it would start up without a problem. Now, though, it takes longer and when it does start, it feels as if it doesn't want to run. A few seconds after that, it will finally run fine. Secondly, I noticed it is making a noise. Don't know how long its been making it as its unnoticably from inside. But, it's like a... screeching noise... IDK how to explain it. It sounds like it's coming from the right front area. I didn't look unde…
Last reply by Cory Wolfe, -
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for about... three days now my CTS has been making this noise i can best describe as a light howl whenever im lightly pressing the gas pedal... when i hit the pedal harder the noise goes away... it also goes away when im not touching the pedal at all... any ideas as to what this might be?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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Glad I found you guys on here! This is my first post on the site, I hope it helps! I'm looking at ordering a new 2008 GMC 2500 HD. I am in the construction buisness and my Yukon is just not cutting it anymore. I have some questions that when I ask the local dealer, I'm not so sure they really know what they're talking about, hopefully someone on here does. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is the 6.0L V8 available in the HD with Active Fuel management? IF so, how do I spec it on my order? Why does the trailering capacity drop almost 3000lbs when you select 3.73 gears vs 4.10 in the gas motor? I want the better economy of the 3.73 rear end, but don't know i…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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I found a 1992 Cadillac 4.9L PFI V8 to transplant into the $300 Celebrity I bought which just isn't going to run right. Water in the oil, oil in the water, backfiring when cold, damn near impossible to start even with starting fluid, and I'm thinking with a free 200hp engine, why bother messing with the stock motor? The first issue is getting the engine home from 10 miles away. The tailgate is jammed on the Suburban and it won't fit in the doors or through the window. So I'd either need the guy to bring it to me, or else rent a trailer. In either case I need to buy an engine crane, engine stand, jackstands, and a good solid floor jack. I've done some checking aroun…
Last reply by occupant, -
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Yeah so I was realy pissed and since my head linner sags alot (the whole thing) and It was in my way when i was pissed so I just grabed the fabric and ripped it down. So Where do i get new fabric since there is a gapping hole in my fabric now. also that foam thats on there was deteriated so im in the process of taking that off the head linner board. Any tips? And I need all new head linner clips since being pissed off and working on your car is never a good combo. good thing i didnt break the pillars yet. I was thinking i doubt a dealler will have head linner fabric so any of you think joans fabric would have some? or some place like it? On a side not that foam its li…
Last reply by Intrepidation, -
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Hello, first time around C&G! I have a question about the Ocatane rating on my 1996 Z28 (roughly 60k miles, and stock). This car is NOT my daily driver, and I only drive it when the weather's good...so roughly 3-4 months out of the whole year. Now the problem. Since I dont drive my Z28 all that much, I figured I would let a family member take it to college for the spring-summer semesters. Well, I got the car back about two-three weeks ago, and really did'nt get the chance to drive it until last Saturday...thats when I noticed the engine was pinging like crazy at idle. My first thought was that stupid b* used Diesel or something, no she used E-85…
Last reply by 2005 EquinoxLS, -
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Its an 03 Siera and i cant find the part number for the armrest/seat back for the front seat it hasa bench. the lid fell off the hinges broke off so i need the whole counsle assembly. if there is a part number that would be help ful or a web site that might have . thanks for your help!
Last reply by flacajun, -
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The new 'Sport' model comes with the 6 speed and 3.6L which would be a nice increase in power for an older 'Nox' or Torrent. I've been unable to locate pictures of the motor to ascertain the mount placement, exhaust routing..... to see if it's fesible. Any thoughts since the body is great but I've got 160,000kms(100k miles) and she'll need a freshening up.
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My dad has a 2004 Silverado 1500 Z85 with the heavy duty towing package. as such his 1500 has the allison transmission under it (which is totally awesome in my opinion) however, his confidence in his truck has really been shook as of late what with his truck having the steering pin rattle and all. he has replaced that once already and is getting ready to do some engineering work on that so that the grease draining out will no longer be a problem. thats another story. the biggie is that the allison transmission began slipping last week and it has now reached a point friday to where he has parked the truck and is in the process of sending it to the shop to be worked on. Guy…
Last reply by Camino LS6, -
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There's this annoying and pseudo worrying thing the Regal has been doing lately... I've been noticing a trend where as I'm leaving or coming home and I park next to the thing the trunk is always popped. Of course every time I see this I just open it and close it nice and firm but my brother says that he simply hasn't been using the trunk. Just in case it's simply a hair trigger keyfob I took the batteries out of both of them and sure enough as I'm leaving for class today, there it is nicely ajar again. I also checked that there wasn't some sort of an obstruction in the glove box depressing the button there. Any idea what would be causing this? I'm thinking of discon…
Last reply by vonVeezelsnider, -
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Hello, everyone! My 1988 K car's timing belt snapped a few days ago with the car at 104,000 miles. Took it in to have it replaced. (Thank goodness the old 2.2/2.5's are non-interference!) I picked up the car yesterday and it idles fine, but is hesistant, shuddery, and generally non responsive. What would be the most likely culprit here? I plan on taking it back to have it looked at because it is barely drivable as compared to pre-belt break.
Last reply by ocnblu, -
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So i just bought my first typhoon. Its a 93 model with only 65k miles and i picked it up for a song, but the last owner owned it for 4 years and only drove it 300 miles so its been neglected kinda mechanically wise. When im driving it, it wont shift outta first until 4000rpm...can anyone shed light on my situation
Last reply by GMTruckGuy74, -
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I've got a few questions on front end maintenance for my 2008 GM W-body. The first is: at what point would you replace the struts all the way around? About 2 years ago, they were very firm. Now, there is a little more sponginess up front when pushing down on the car and releasing. However, it doesn't oscillate or do anything drastic. I'm thinking of replacing them at 70,000 miles (this has been a low mileage car for me), whether it needs them or not. I also want to do this to get rid of the OEM ones and keep the newer and second set of tires doing well. Also, when I first started driving and needed to replace shocks in the rear wheel drive Oldsmobiles, I alwa…
Last reply by frogger, -
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2006 Chevy van with a 4.8 auto. The tranny feels like the converter is slipping badly. The truck has 25,000K on it. It has a "towing" button on the dash, when the tranny slips the worst it seems to work like it should. When the tranny feels like the converter is slipping as it usually does it doesn't seem to do anything, button in or out. I do NOT tow with it, and I already checked the fluid, the level is up but it doesn't smell like I'm used to. Doesn't smell "right", but doesn't smell "burnt" either. Is there any techs here? I'm looking for any possible TSB's etc...
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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My dad has a 1995 Ford F-150, Standard cab, long-bed, with dual fuel tanks, 4.9 liter inline-6, 5-speed, 4x4 He recently had the electric fuel pumps fail in each tank. First the front one went, he replaced that, then a few weeks later the rear one died so he replaced that one as well. He also replaced the rear fuel tank because he found one for cheap on e-bay. Now, a month or two later, the rear fuel pump appears to be failing again. When the engine is running on the rear tank, the engine sputters and has no power. Flip the switch to the front tank and the engine immediately goes back to normal. The level of fuel in the tank doesn't have any effect on the symptom. …
Last reply by Drew Dowdell, -
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Finally got my PRC 215 aftermarket heads today, hot off of the CNC machine. 215cc runner, 60cc combustion chamber, 2.04/1.60" valves, PRC valve springs. Great flow, great compression, great piston to valve clearance. Sadly, my life will be getting in the way of a proper tune/dyno run, it will probably be 6 weeks before I can post results. intake port combustion chamber exhaust port customized: total package:
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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Anyone with experience on this? I've got dried gum stuck to the underside of my rear bumper, and it's already hardened. I don't want to get anything too abrasive, but the usual soaps aren't doing a thing for me. Any thoughts? -RBB
Last reply by Cory Wolfe, -
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No it's not the oil filter or drain plug. 2000 Alero 2.4L twin cam motor. Just started leaking BAD. From underneath the car looking up, it looks like the oil is coming from somewhere around the manafold area (cam cover, head gasket???) and running down the backside of the motor. Underside of car is covered pretty good. Just went down 1 qt of oil on a 120 mile drive. Seems that if it were the head gasket I'd have coolant issues too? The back side of the cam cover just above the manifold looks a little oily but not like it does below the manifold. Whole back side of motor under manifold is covered with oil. Any thoughts before I tear into this thing? Thanks Buddy…
Last reply by I hope GMRULES again, -
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Recently experiencing overheating problems, my fan seems to be turning on just fine, radiator is filled an working and so is the waterpump yet it still overheats? If anyone could help me with a solution or direction to look for my issue I'd be eternally grateful. For extra information: The car doesn't overheat while idling, only on the highway after driving for about 30 minutes. I'm almost sure there's something electrical going completely haywire.
Last reply by Thed, -
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Sandisk announces first Extreme Pro SDXC 1TB memory Card. So this is a prototype they showed off, but being that they have a 512GB SDXC card, I would say you might just be able to buy this by Xmas. Press Release - 1TB SDXC Extreme Pro memory card This just shows how fast we are moving into the 4K / 8K word of recording and storing data and how BIG DATA is here now. 2014 They showed off their 512GB SDXC card and started selling it in 2015, now here is the Photokina show and they have a 1TB SDXC card, so I imagine by Xmas or spring of next year they will start selling this card. No matter what, the world is getting smaller and smaller as we increase…
Last reply by G. David Felt, -
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I'm looking to replace the Uniwobbles that came with the G6, although at this point I'm not 100% sure if I'm doing it yet. The main reason for my thought was I almost got into an accident because of the damn tires, skidding towards the opposite lane. Since summer is almost here so I think it shouldn't be too bad for now. Although they also suck in handling. I'm currently considering these: 1. Continental ContiExtremeContact 2. BFGoodrich Traction T/A 3. Toyo Versado LX 5. Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S All of them are V-Rated or H-Rated. I'm leaning towards the Continentals, as I've heard good things about the performance and it's cheaper than the others, but I a…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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Ok, I'm a bit stumped on this one.... Last week, the wagon (93 Cav 3.1, 141k) would not start. New battery, fuses, and the Alt tested fine. Even with the new battery, the lights won't turn on, or the gauges won't even move. The only things I can think of would either be: the starter, or I have a wire that went bad somewhere. What is even worse is that my repair book disappeared. Does anyone know where there is a good guide for wiring to the engine for a 3.1? (cavalier) I don't want to let this thing sit too long....
Last reply by daves87rs, -
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So, the Buick won't idle or run. I'll fire it up and it'll idle for a split second, then it starts running real rough and usually dies unless I give it more gas. It's almost like it has 'jumped time' but I know that's impossible since it doesn't possess a timing chain. Any ideas? I changed the fuel filter hoping that would be a cheap and easy fix. I know it probably needs a set of plugs and wires but I don't think that alone would cause it to completely crap out. Other thoughts I've had: 1) fuel pump (But the fuel pump sounds fine) 2) catalytic converter 3) O2 sensor (It has been flashing a code since we bought it.) 4) EGR valve (If I'm not mistaken, this will ca…
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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I ask because I WANT these but the owner doesn't remember what kind they were (they came with the car, he sold them sooner after and regrets it).
Last reply by gm4life, -
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So, after a few years of postponing it, I'm going to buy a second key fob. The other one got damaged and slowly started giving up the ghost. This is for a 2008 LaCrosse with the base 3800 V6. My current one identifies itself with "Welcome Driver 2" upon inserting the key. The dealerships want anywhere from $40 to $62 to do this task. I will be buying the key fob aftermarket from one of the major auto part stores. Questions: Can I do this myself? How will the key fob "know" to attach itself to my vehicle once I take out of the shipping container and begin programming it? Will it "know" that driver 2 is already programmed and then default to being t…
Last reply by trinacriabob, -
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I got through washing and waxing my car this morning to find a ding, slightly smaller than a dime or even a shirt button and not deep at all, on the front of my hood. I've no idea how it got there, but the paint is all there so I doubt it's from road debris. Anyway, it's in a spot on the hood where there's double metal (near the latch/release), so the traditional PDR method of working it out from behind is impossible. Do any of these "glue on suction cup" ding removers (like the Ding King, et. al) actually work, and is it something I can pull off myself without making it worse? Is it even fixable at all without filler and respraying the paint. I'm willing to bring it to a…
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
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Does this car have one of the plastic gaskets or is it the newer redesigned type?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
would you?
by loki- 6 replies
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as far as I know it's never been changed, my 99 monte has 140,000miles on it, would you get it serviced or not? nothing seems wrong with it other than seldom (a couple times a year) and random not locking of the torque converter, when it shouldn't do that.
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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Hey guys, I'm back!! Got a tech question. One of my local shops is getting their butt kicked by this Buick. I haven't seen it mind you, I'm passing on second hand information. He says the control arm shafts thread through the frame and they are having a monster of a time getting them in and out. He asked if there was a special tool or a procedure to do this. Any suggestions?
Last reply by balthazar, -
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I took the LeSabre to get gas tonight, and it was running fine. After I got my gas and paid, I get in and it fires right up. Then I shifted out of P. As soon as reverse engaged, the car died. Just died, everything. Interior lights, everyything, basically it faked a completely dead battery. I fiddled with the battery and alternator quickly, to maike sure everything was hooked up, then called to get a jump. Out of curiosity, I got back in and went to put the car into neutral, to make sure I'd be able to get it out from in front of the gas pump. Hark! As soon as I put it into reverse, all the lights came alive, the clock returned, and everything seemed right with th…
Last reply by Sixty8panther, -
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I noticed this recently. When I operate the power door lock switch, all the lights (dome, reading, dashboard) will all of a sudden dim a little for a second. Interesting is that it doesn't do it when cranking the engine, whereas my Cavalier does, as with many other cars. Is this normal or an electrical problem? I didn't seem to notice this on my Cavalier when operating its power locks.
Last reply by Buickfosure, -
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I absolutely hate it. I'm replacing it on my '92 Bronco and can't get the damn thing off. I got it off the bracket and got the inlet side off, but the damn outlet side will not disconnect no matter what I do with that stupid ass fuel line disconnect tool. Any suggestions?
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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I know that when this technology was newer, the cast iron block and aluminum head could be a problem if the engine ever overheated and it warped the head gasket. I know of a friend's parents with a Thunderbird this happened to. However, I don't hear much about this anymore. The Chevy V6s, 3.1, 3.4, 3.5, 3.9 are all cast iron block/aluminum head. Most engines are like this now. Only the 3800 and a few others remain as iron block/iron head. Do you think this is a cause for concern? Have they addressed the fact that a car can run a little hot? Any thoughts or opinions?
Last reply by razoredge, -
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Okay, so I got home and my dad asked me to go online and try to figure this out... A guy at my dad's work had the battery in his Protege die. A couple guys went out there and replaced the battery and the + and - "accidentally" touched together... Well, they checked the fuses inside and under the hood and none of them were bad. However the radio, lights, and keyless entry aren't working now. Any idea what blew? Don't most radios have a fuse in the back of them or somewhere just in case? I think they might need to check that, too, if there is one...
Last reply by 76ChevyTrucker, -
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I want to replace this missing hood stop. But I'm not sure what the part is actually called and what to search for... any ideas?
Last reply by Robert Hall, -
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i really want to put a fully functional ram air system on my 04 monte... i was just wondering if anyone knew what kind of horsepower gain i should expect... i plan to get an SLP cold air box with ram air option and a single scoop ram air hood... also does anyone know any other thing i can do to get lots of horse for relatively cheap? i know the ram air stuff will run me about 700 for the hood and 120 for the cold air box... so any other mods for under 1500 would be good thanks alot
Last reply by Bizz, -
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whats some super cheap mods for this peice of... fine... machinery.
Last reply by quantum110, -
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Hi folks: My LaCrosse has the highly "chromed" and bling laden grille common to the '08 and '09. It is not chromed at all, but plastic. I was almost going to buy chrome cleaner but did a little homework by reading the instructions on the can of chrome cleaner and as well as getting the opinion of the guy working at O'Reilly's ... and nixed that idea real quick. One is not supposed to use chrome cleaner on these areas, let alone on this car, probably, since there is little to no chrome. I've just washed the car and then dried this area off. I'd like to know if there are specific ways to care for these areas: 1) the plastic chrome effect on the grille …
Last reply by G. David Felt, -
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Hey folks. Need some help with electrical issues on the Buick. Tonight, I lost low beam lighting on one side. Not only that, the backlighting for the light switches, at the left of the dash, went dark, too. Within the last month, I lost 1 low beam light, the most used one on the D.I.C., and I noticed the console lamp was also out. Coincidence or connected? (Considering the age of the vehicle and/or the sequential nature.) I looked at the owner's manual. There's a fuse center at the right side of the dash, but not for my issues. For those, the (mini) fuses are located in a plastic box under the hood. I'm wondering if fuse replacement is the place…
Last reply by trinacriabob, -
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Three questions: 1) With cars now having platinum and iridium spark plugs, the intervals between changing them has become fairly long. I'd finally like to change my original platinum spark plugs. Are there ever issues where the spark plugs have been in the cylinder block for so long that its tough for the mechanic to get them out? Is there something they can do prior to putting on the socket wrench that will make them turn more easily? Also, do you know if, on transversely mounted GM V-6 engines, they access the 3 rear spark plugs by the firewall (a) from above or (b) by hoisting up the car and working from the space behind the exhaust manifold but in front of t…
Last reply by Cmicasa the Great,
